Photos & Bicycle Builds

Pictures of motorized bike projects and bike builds. Vote for the best build!
Recently had a recurring series of problems with my clutch. The clutch cam/ bucking bar interface was nicely fuddled and I could not - despite many good efforts -affect a proper and lasting solution. I had a brand new 2-Stroke engine from Thatsdax.com sitting around so I decided to invest about 8 hours and replace my old workhorse. A good part of that time involved perfecting my front and rear motor mounts. Here are the pics: The front mount is an improved version of an older design: engine studs to transition plate; transition plate to angle pieces via 5/16" Grade 8 bolts; angle pieces bolted to doe tube via 1 1/2" muffler bracket. The angle pieces are locked together by 4 short 1/2" bolts. Study of the older design reveals a...
So, I fired it up for the first time tonight. Had an issue or two with getting it going (chain difficulties), but got it settled after knocking out a couple more links and did a little test run. Here's what it turned out looking like: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Kuruma_Kitsune/09-09-08_1759.jpg
First bike build. Started with a free donor, painted it to my liking and so far this is where I’m at. I ordered an expansion chamber like the MZ65 and that’ll go on tomorrow night when it arrives. Saw a great idea to weld the stock silencer onto the end of the expansion chamber so I’m going to try it. Looking forward to getting this puppy on the road by the weekend.
Hi all, it has been a long time since my last post, and quite a while I have built anything other than Whizzers, both Vintage, and New Edition. It had come to my attention that a 79cc Predator could be made to run at a similar level, and with similar results as a 1946 Whizzer H-motor kit bike. I have a 1946 H, but mine is not a good example of what to expect, since it has a High Lift Cam, High compression Head, big bore, big manifold and pipe, and big valves with appropriate porting to make it run (did I mention a different carb?). So, what are the expectations? No pedal needed at takeoff, better that 30 mph with heavy rider on a 26 inch bicycle. No sweat, I figure! The Start: 67.50 spent on an Electra steel framed stretched Cruiser...
This all got started back in February when I purchased a cheap ebay kit for $90 to slap on my Huffy as I was getting sick of getting huffy from riding to the store. It was one of the newer style motors with the single piece head and cylinder with a 32mm intake and thin as f*** mounting hardware. Despite being more than skilled mechanically, trying to get that damn rag joint mounted sprocket to align just about have me a stroke. As Chinese products are usually made out of chineseium, so was this engine kit and everything started to break within the first two weeks. First it was mounting studs snapping, then came the fuel tank's mounting studs tearing the sheet metal, the motor soft seized at least once, it had little power, etc...
Hello, everyone. I've just been out road testing my second build. This one will be my bike. (First one was for my wife) It seems as though I've got it pretty well adjusted and it's even more comfortable for me than my wife's bike. That one is a bit small for me. It's an old Columbia ten-speed. My memory of these bike's is vague. I'm thinking that it was something that you'd buy at K-Mart or Montgomery-Wards in, say, 1972. At the same time I think I'm remembering a Columbia that was a bit on the upscale side. A 3-speed that was meant to compete with similar Raleighs, for instance. What do you think? Does that sound right? Anyway, here it is. I had to replace the fork with something newer so that I could get wide...
A Few Rack Mounts To Hit The Road. Thanks to the GEBE kit sale from member "larymor" my mountain bike made the switch to MB. My other mountain bike felt left out, so I decided to try out the Staton friction drive also. Im getting ready for the friction mount install. Ill have to swop out the rear tire to a smoother tread. Ive been reading tons in the rack mount section for a few months learning. Im going to have to gain experience before I can post or give any advise though. So far so good!
I have rebuilt the rear axle. I learned that the plastic does not hold much strength...thought it would. I might have to rebuild the rear frame steel. I rebuilt the axle left, in the pic. and putting that steel bar in the middle underneath. that should solidfy the wheel base. If not I will have to rebuild in steel. Gonna keep it a trike...is gonna be a kool ride either way. In case u wondering where the chain is gonna be. right side flipping the right wheel around...drive forward...rebuilding it as like the left. and will run the jackshaft bar off the back. the first jackshaft will be upfront. that will have the engine sprocket and 2 other sprockets...one fixed, one freewheel. Note: I am taking the second forks off the middle of...
This bike is very quiet and smooth with no noticeable vibration. With nine speeds, from a stand still in low gear you can start up a pretty steep grade without peddling. 25 mph the motor is turning easly with a low humming sound. The bike rides the same with the motor mounted or no motor, probably because it is mounted low. Looks like the gas tank is right in the way, but not in the way at all ,plus I can look down from the seat and see how much fuel there is. I have put together several motorized bicycles and this has turned out to be one of the best. Jerry, the scooter Guy should get a lot of the credit. The mounting brackets, most of the drive train including the sprocket were supplied by him. He also gave me a lot of tips...
got a whole lot going on with this first build ! SBP jackshaft shift kit, ammo can saddle bags to house left and right 12v 15amp batteries for a 24v 30 amp system to power up a HHO fuel cell, twin 2" copper pipes stacked and bent to conform to top tube to be fuel tank and air tank for twin air cylinders to fan out the ammo cans for access, also air to power up an air horn, too much to list in this first thread ! first set of pics are just the tip of the iceberg ! glad to be here !
thought i would share a few pics of my only motorized bike(not the best pics. sorry). the bike is a diamondback islander, and the motor is a 50cc spitfire. the only prob left is a bit of chain slap against the tire. i'm trying to decide if i want to try a thinner tire to fix the problem. http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg201/utfaod/P1030245.jpg http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg201/utfaod/P1030244.jpg http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg201/utfaod/P1030243.jpg
Hello all, new to this fourm. Bike in the picture is a 1954 Monark Firestone Super Crusier. 99cc Predator, Q-Matic belt drive, 60's vintage MC saddle bags, HD 12g rear with 56t Sprtsmanflyer hub adaptor w/ coaster, SA hub front. 1" wraped header from AFG. Gas tank from a 60's garden tiller. Tires are Goodyear clones. Knee action springer is 51 Monark. All the original bike parts were won on eBay and assembled with original patina. Engine mods, Air intake, Header, Carb rejet, governer removed. The qmatic with a 3" front pully WOT 47mph slug on any incline. 2.5" front pully WOT 40mph powers up inclines and hills. This is how I run now there are alot of hills in Tacoma. Ride videos under 6labrats on youtube.
Hey all, First off, holy crap that vibrations bad haha what the hell! Thats going to be the first issue on the agenda. I have got the motor kit and the bmx, I have mounted it in the bmx and with the skillfull use of a hammer and a hacksaw i have managed to get it running without any issues. I will put pics up later when I have more time. It goes better and worse than I thought but I got the kit for 160nzd and the bike for 40nzd so i'm not complaining (the bmx was almost too good to modify, Full ABD setup, some kid had just taken to it with a fluro rattle can). I'll jump on when I can and update as I go :whistle:
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