Problem: Robin/Subaru EH035 won't start

Is the clear plastic shield on the switch back? It insulates the wire connection from the handlebar, without it the switch shorts out.
 
Did the instructions say much in regards to break in period ?? Just from what I have done in the past -- Not full speed for a while -- a little chance to cool down now and then durning break in ----- the kill switch - maybe get the bike running and attach the kill switch -- still running ? Kill switch work ? Just some thoughts -- from Mountainman

Hey Mountainman,

Yeah, it said not to run it wide open for a while. I'll try re-attaching a the kill switch tomorrow and see what happens.

Thanks!
Tracy
 
Is the clear plastic shield on the switch back? It insulates the wire connection from the handlebar, without it the switch shorts out.

Hey Kerf,

I checked and the clear plastic shield is still in place. The wire connecting to the switch appears to be fully insulated from the handlebars and looks like it only connected to the screw.

I'll try hooking my ohm meter up to it tomorrow and see if I can figure anything out.

Thanks,
Tracy
 
it sounds like an issue with the kill switch being shorted out. Robin-Subaru motors are excellent and starts on the 1st pull 95% of the time. glad you found where the problem was. maybe just ask GEBE to give you a replacement kill switch.
 
I went home at lunch and tried a few things.

1) If plugged in and not touching the bicycle, the kill switch doesn't kill the engine at all ... of course, this is to be expected. :)

2) If plugged in and loosely attached to the handlebars, the kill switch doesn't kill the engine.

3) If I tighten the screw (see picture named KillSwitch-Sketch.jpg) so that the screw touches the handlebars, it kills the engine regardless of whether it is set to "on" or "off".

I also took some photos of the switch itself. I did not use the small rubber tube in the picture at all. I thought it might be the insulator between the switch and the handlebars, but the switch and straps barely make it around the handlebar as it is. I couldn't get it to fit with the rubber tube in there.

I put a call into Staton Inc but they were gone for lunch (I'm guessing since I got the answering machine and it was during the lunch hour). No return call yet.

If you have any ideas, I'm willing to try them. And I'll keep you all posted on what happens.

Thanks!
Tracy
 

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See if there is a burr in the solder holding the wire, that may have penetrated the clear plastic insulator.
 
A friend of mine had the same exact problem. For one reason or another his switch was bad/broken/shorted and wouldn't allow the engine to start. He bought a simple switch from Radio Shack and wired it to work... If you're switch is completely intact, I would call David Staton and speak with him to see if there's anything he can do. My friend and I both never received anything but great service and advice from him!

Stay safe!
Mark
 
This was the EXACT problem I had as well. The switches Staton sends with the kit are pretty cheap. You can buy a new switch as suggested, or take it apart like I did. There's a small brass thread inside where the screw fits that was off center, causing a completed circuit (i.e. "kill" state) with the frame, regardless of on/off position.

Unscrew the screw and detach the wire. Pry off the black plastic backing of the switch and you'll see what's inside. I had to straighten the threads and add some electrical tape in addition to the plastic backing. Try to visualize how the switch opens and closes the circuit, and make sure that the circuit is insulated and "open" when in the "on" position.
 
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Staton Kill Switch Problem....

I just bought a kit from them as well... that Taiwan switch has too long a screw holding the wire is place... when you clamp it down on your handlebars the screw contacts the switch body and grounds out your motor... solution cut about 1/8 inch or less off the screw with a dremel and the problem is solved. After giving Staton $1000 bucks you'd think they'd test their stuff... but apparently not... I verfied this with a VOM because my motor wouldn't start either. Hope this helps - Chris
 
Thanks for all the info on the switch! I ended up taking mine apart and fumbling one of the nuts. So I'll run by Radio Shack after work today and see what I can come up with as a replacement.


Tracy
 
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