Crosbow Cycles

You don't need a 'special' tool to put on the crown race. All you need is a piece of 1" PVC long enough to fit over the steer tube, and you can simply hammer it on. It doesn't take much (don't hit it hard). I grease the race and the lower part of the steer tube to facilitate the process. There are 2 dimensions for fork crown races 27.0mm and 26.4mm for 1" forks.

--John
 
wow that is the most expensive motorized bicycle i have ever seen !
the bike looks like whizzer. i would rather get whizzer with less money.
 
so, I just got mine in the mail, and had to dremel out the dropouts and flip them to accomidate my arai drum brake hub....well see how the whole headset debacle goes with it, no matter though...it looks hella cool...one question though, any ideas on fender mounting with these, nowhere to go with the mounting bracket....
 
I did not have problems with mis-aligned blades on mine. The blades are asymmetrical and the left/right are flipped, so they don't look quite identical from both sides (you can tell if you look at the lower end bolt holes) but they still work the same.

so, I just got mine in the mail, and had to dremel out the dropouts and flip them to accomodate my arai drum brake hub....well see how the whole headset debacle goes with it, no matter though...it looks hella cool...one question though, any ideas on fender mounting with these, nowhere to go with the mounting bracket....
I've got a fender on mine.
There was a plate across the bottom of the steerer tube, that had a jagged 3/16" hole in it. I drilled that out to 1/4". Then you can drill a hole in the fender and run a bolt up through the fender and to a nut inside the steerer tube. It's a pain to tighten, I used a nylock nut so it won't come loose (I used nylock nuts for everything I could).

The two fender struts just need to attach onto the fork blades, in the bolt stack--but they need to be attached so that they won't be forced to rotate when the suspension compresses, and this is another reason you can't use the original bolts.

I'll have to do a good diagram + pix of mine. I have ~200 miles on it and they are holding together, so it can work.... -but I don't think it can work with the original bolts.
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worth the hassle

so yeah, the crown race fit pretty loose, used coke can shims...worked just fine...had to replace the whole headset as my schwinn Haevy Duti came with a 1 1/8 threaded headset and stem...you never see those....found some wald fenders that dont mount with a center bolt, but havent gone to pick them up...this little upgreade project has gotten spendy...forks, headset, stem, fenders...I swear this motorized bike is worth about a grand now...obsession, fascination, determinate tinkering.
 
so yeah, the crown race fit pretty loose, used coke can shims...worked just fine....
:eek:
Ehhh,,,,, coke cans are made out of aluminum.... -And the bearing race and steerer tube are steel. The aluminum is going to suffer galvanic corrosion and e-x-p-a-n-d.

You need to get a piece of STEEL shim in there, friend..... Like pieces of a Campell's soup can perhaps.

Or stainless steel will work too, but stainless is a pain the the butt to cut. I would use a dremel+cutoff wheel on high to cut stainless shim, because tin snips probably won't cut it real well. Or, tin snips may cut it at first, but won't for very long....
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I am pretty sure that thew aluminum is the anodic metal in this scenario, so im not to concerned about the treerer tube or race corroding and this aplication doesnt yield much or any exposure to salt water or other electrolyltes ( chris king sealed headset) and lots of grease- so i didnt worry too much about it, hopefully that wont come back to haunt me the way not using lock tite on my spoke nipples did.
 
Bought some "monark forks" didn't like them one bit. the idea and concept is great but the actual application is flawed. nothing fits(as it should) and too many points that can fall apart at 30mph. they were too expensive for the quality delivered and rust specs formed from one day in the garage. no good.
 
ugh, these things are a NIGHTMARE...any recommendations for fixing the dropout spacing issue without the bolts interfering with spokes...Doug, you talked about the bushings...do i just use a regular bolt and then place the bushings in the dropout holes......
 
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