New Owner with problems....

Hi mortiseman, Some Whizzer dealers are open all the time, seven days a week, and I am one of those. Of course I can help you. If you have a few small jumper clips, and a little time I will tell you the minimum to fire your bike. You don't need the kill switch, the ignition switch, and or a battery to make the motor fire. If you have an ohm meter it will be even easier to troubleshoot. In order for the spark plug to fire, several things must be true, first the spark plug must be good, secondly the green wire on the coil must be grounded. The green wire on the CDI must NOT be grounded. The black wire from the CDI plug must be grounded to fire. The blue wire with the yellow stripe goes between the CDI and the sensor, the black wire with the red stripe goes from the CDI to the coil. You only need the coil, CDI, flywheel sensor, sparkplug, and a working stator [coils under the flywheel] to produce fire. The ignition switch stops the fire by grounding the green wire in the CDI plug. The kill switch grounds the same green wire to stop the fire. Hope this helps.

Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton
 
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Mortiseman, this might be a dumb question, but have you checked the fuse on the red wire that leads to the main switch? (It's image 071 in your photos.) It's a 12v 7amp fuse, and if it's blown your ignition system is rendered inoperative.
 
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I got it to fire!!!

The problem was I was not getting a ground from the coil. I ran a wire from the green on the coil to the frame it it sparked. I tore open the harness and I could not find where the green wire was grounded to the frame so i made a ground and it runs!!

My only issue now is the horn will not work. I got a replacement 12V horn from a local motorcycle store and you can just hear it "click" when you hit the horn button.

Another question....

When I pull the clutch handle at a stop should I be able to idle? The bike seems to die when I pull the clutch in....

thanks again for all of your help!
 
My only issue now is the horn will not work. I got a replacement 12V horn from a local motorcycle store and you can just hear it "click" when you hit the horn button.

Another question....

When I pull the clutch handle at a stop should I be able to idle? The bike seems to die when I pull the clutch in....

thanks again for all of your help!

How is the battery? The horn usually needs to have a well charged battery to function well. If you try the horn button while you rev the engine it may work. Mine is largely mute as well, as I've got to recharge my battery.
If your engine dies when you pull the clutch in, your small drive belt might be a hair tight or your idle might be adjusted a hair low.
 
Hi mortiseman,
Happy you found the fire. The reason I mentioned the coil ground first in the last post is because about 75% of the time it is the problem. KilroyCD is right about the battery needing a charge before the horn will work. The odds are high that your new horn won't work unless it is exactly the same requirments as the original horn. If you have a charged battery and the correct horn it will work well. The reason for the battery is to supply a backup system for the brake light, but it helps smooth out the voltage and the horn and turn signals work better. BTW when the motor is running the gray wire on the horn is 12V, and the horn button supplies the ground to complete the circuit.

Have fun,
Whizzer Outerbanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton
 
Finding more things....

First, what is the best way to loosen the small drive belt a hair? I tried to tighten the nut on the clutch cable but that still did not give me enough slack on the belt when I pull the clutch. That is the reason the bike is stalling when i have the clutch pulled. It is still trying to run the rear tire and it is stalling. Do I have to go as far as moving the engine on the mounts?

Second issue....I went for a ride this evening and when I put the bike away i saw a steady stream of gas coming out of the carb overflow tube. I looked in the driveway and there was a line of gas from where i drove into the garage. I would not think this is normal.....

Thanks!
 
Ah! Time to talk clutch adjustments again. But guess it is more important to talk about your gas trail first. Sounds like the float may be stuck open in the carburetor, and not shutting off the fuel supply to the float bowl. It is possible a speck of dirt, or paint chips from the tank are lodged in the sut off needle affixed to the float. Often a "sharp" tap on the side of the carburetor will dis-lodge the obstruction and allow the float to do its job, if not you will need to remove the float bowl and clean the jet [easy to do]. Be sure to correct this problem, because in 1958 the same thing happened to my 1951 Whizzer Ambassador at a gas station, and then it backfired, and after the fire, my Whizzer was really a true black color overall. I also found that Whizzers with melted tires don't roll very well. nor is the seat covering fire proof. Anyway fix the fuel problem before adjusting the belts.
I am going to tell you how I adjust the belts, not how others do it or how any book covers the proceedure. The most difficult part is getting the front belt correctly adjusted, so I start with the front first. Most have a problem getting the front belt tight, not the problem of dis-engaging at the stop sign. I use the AX27 front belt, but the Whizzer is equiped with a 4L290 [1/2" x 29"]when new. If your belt doesn't break free when stopped, you should first check to see is someone discarded the metal bracket under the belt guard. The bracket is needed to cause the belt shape to lengthen when the clutch pulley is lowered. If you are missing the bracket then order from your Whizzer dealer [always support your local Whizzzer dealer when possible]. If you can't locate one contact me for assistance. Remove the rear belt from the rear sheeve for the moment. If the bracket is on your bike then adjust the cable to pull the pulley downward as far as needed to loosen the front belt. If the cable adjustment won't lower the pulley enough, then loosen the 3 screws on the clutch cable bracket mounted on the frame [on the seat downpost] and move it downward approx 1/2", re-adjust the cable to loosen the front belt. It is important to adjust the cable so that it grips when released and dis-engages when stopped, but never adjust with out the bracket in place. after you have the front adjusted, install the rear belt on the sheeve, but watch closely to see if the rear belt causes the clutch pulley to lower. If the pullery drops much with the rear belt installed it means the rear belt is too tight and the Wheel should be moved foward slightly. If moving the wheel forward causes the chain to be too loose, then loosen the top moto mount nut, and push the top of the motor forward slightly, and tighten the motor mount nut.
Hope this helps, if not ask again.

Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton
 
Hi,
Sorry I can't locate the part number on the site either. The bracket has 4 holes and mounts to the studs under the belt guard. If it is missing or you need pictures email me at quincy163@yahoo.com. I won't be able to sell it to you because I don't know the price, so the only option is to give it to you, but you must pay the shipping costs. You are welcome to call me on my cell phone if needed 252-475-0406. Let me know what works for you.

Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton
 
Hi Quenton,

Well I got the carb fixed. The actual plastic Float Set was filled with Gas! therefore it would not move the pin to stop the gas. Have you ever seen that??? It looks like there is a small hole in the Float set and that is how it filled with gas...

When I put the belt cover back on the bike I think that solved the belt problem. It looks like on the Belt cover there are 2 clips on the top and bottom that keep the belts shape when you pull the clutch in. I can pull the clutch and open the throtal and the bike won't move.

i am still having problems with the bike idling. It actually won't idle at all. As soon as I pull the clutch and I am at a stop the engine dies. What adjustment screw do i mess with to fix the ideling problem?

Thanks again!!!
 
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