First ride into work

The 4 has a greater life and low end torq and is possibly cleaner.I've heard


I'm not so sure about the greater life claim. They are all rated at 600 hours and typically do 2 or 3 times that amount in real life. I think the 2 strokes are MUCH better at staying at top rpm - they are designed to be run wide open. The 4 strokes really aren't. The torque peak on the Honda is at 5500 rpm's, so it's not like it's building tons of torque at idle. Hehe. My Mitsu idles around 3000 rpm's and pulls up to over 8k (I saw 8,500 rpm's yesterday). The 4 strokes probably ARE cleaner than the 2 strokes, no doubt, but the Mitsu is clean as far as 2 strokes go.

Warner
 
Yeah I'm slowly changing my mind I like the reports you have been writing. Keep it up! I'm going to make my purchase end of September You were the one to put me on to Staton. You are paving the way. Wow 40 MPH
 
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Yeah I'm slowly changing my mind I like the reports you have been writing. Keep it up! I'm going to make my purchase end of May. You were the one to put me on to Staton. You are paving the way. Wow 40 MPH

I just have an opinion (like everyone else does). It's not necessarily "right"; just my opinion. I have to tell you though....40 MPH on a bicycle (for an extended period...not just one blast down a hill) is a little hairy...Hehe. I used to race motorcycles and I was feeling like I was on a motorcycle at that speed....it's really moving. (I also kept thinking about how much I DIDN'T want to crash at that speed!)

Warner
 
Yeah I'm sure it feels like your flying. I don't want to ride at that speed but knowing it was there would be great. I want to make a decision that will get me the biggest bang for my buck. Thats why having guys like you to learn from helps so much.
 
The mitsu and staton kits are totally win. Good to hear warner keep up with the good fight!
 
The mitsu and staton kits are totally win. Good to hear warner keep up with the good fight!

Thanks...and thanks for your link to the horn parts. I installed mine last night. You're right about that switch being a little different. I used it to switch my hot wire to the horn and ran the black (negative) wire from the horn directly back to the battery (which is how I have the headlight wired, too...it's the RIGHT way to do it - Switching the hot wire.) Anyway, the difficult part about the switch is that at first glance it appears that there's only a place for ONE wire to come in or out of the switch. But I figured that what happens is that you attach another wire to the screw that's used to tighten the switch mounting down - that one I ran to the headlight, and the wire that comes in the side of the switch got tapped into the positive side of the battery. Works good. I WILL use the horn on my commute for sure! Everytime I am cruising along and there is a car waiting to turn right, if there's no traffic with me, the car waiting to turn right ALWAYS misjudges the speed of the oncoming "bicycle" and starts to pull out. A quick blast of the horn should HOPEFULLY wake them up to the fact that I'm NOT doing 15mph on my bicycle.

Warner
 
Nice, is the horn as loud as a car or motorcycle like mine? If so it should really get attention. I can hear mine really loud even if I'm really screaming my engine and I'm at top speed with all the wind noise.
What I did was run the single hot wire into the drilled hole and clamped the internal screw down on it, Then I pulled both the hot and ground wire through the rubber hole and wrapped that wire around the notch on the switch housing. I then pulled the rubber down to cover and insulate everything. I wrapped my handlebar in a few wraps of electrical tape to insulate the system and keep from energizing the bike frame. It works well and I have the horn on the loop after the switch.
 
Nice, is the horn as loud as a car or motorcycle like mine? If so it should really get attention. I can hear mine really loud even if I'm really screaming my engine and I'm at top speed with all the wind noise.
What I did was run the single hot wire into the drilled hole and clamped the internal screw down on it, Then I pulled both the hot and ground wire through the rubber hole and wrapped that wire around the notch on the switch housing. I then pulled the rubber down to cover and insulate everything. I wrapped my handlebar in a few wraps of electrical tape to insulate the system and keep from energizing the bike frame. It works well and I have the horn on the loop after the switch.

Well, I ordered the same part numbers that you have, so I'm assuming it's the same horn...but who knows? It's loud enough. I don't have practical experience on the road with it yet because I haven't ridden it with the horn yet (at least not under engine power). Ahh....I should pull the wire out and run it through the little rubber boot before I tighten it down....I didn't do that! I will only have ONE wire to route through that hole though. Thanks for the tip. I did not insulate it from the handlebars, either....I can't see where that would cause any problems, but if it does I'll wrap some e-tape on the bars to insulate it.

Thanks again,

Warner
 
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