go-rebels
Member
What about advancing two teeth???
Whizzer ignition timing.
- Thread starter RdKryton
- Start date
K
Kep1a
Guest
That would advance the valve timing only and likely make it an engine that will only idle at 1500 or higher and not be in its power range until 4500rpm or higher. But only if you advance the ignition timing on the crankshaft trigger to match the valve advancement. Not a good idea at all IMHO!
Kep1a
RdKryton
Active Member
I don't know what effect that will have. I'm sure Quenton will chime in here with some information. It may very well make the engine impossible to start. I just don't know. Sorry
Jim
Jim
go-rebels
Member
From my earlier post... can anyone post a pic of the gear alignment?
K
Kep1a
Guest
Hi Go,
Don't do it! Only advance it one tooth. For a while a couple of Whizzer dealers were suggesting 2 teeth, but the end result was less than stellar. Because of the piston cycle, the intake was open too soon and destroyed the intake charge pulse at low to midrange. The top end paid a price also with almost 800 RPMs less.
Even if you advance the ignition timing it won't work correctly.
A few facts concerning advancing the ignition, it can be easily altered from 14 degrees BTDC to 23 degrees BTDC. If the trigger is moved past the 23 degree BTDC, the magnet sync will decrease the necessary voltage and will lower the spark [or totally remove the spark]. In order to advance the timing, simply remove the trigger plate on the flywheel, move it forward [counter clockwise] until the rear edge is now covering 1/2 of the original hole. Mark the spot, drill & tap [5 MM threads]a new hole, insert screw thru plate[use loc-tite], tighten to flywheel. The best way to remove the original trigger plate screw is to use pliers and twist the plate as you loosen the screw [prevents destroying the screw].
Hope this helps,
Don't do it! Only advance it one tooth. For a while a couple of Whizzer dealers were suggesting 2 teeth, but the end result was less than stellar. Because of the piston cycle, the intake was open too soon and destroyed the intake charge pulse at low to midrange. The top end paid a price also with almost 800 RPMs less.
Even if you advance the ignition timing it won't work correctly.
A few facts concerning advancing the ignition, it can be easily altered from 14 degrees BTDC to 23 degrees BTDC. If the trigger is moved past the 23 degree BTDC, the magnet sync will decrease the necessary voltage and will lower the spark [or totally remove the spark]. In order to advance the timing, simply remove the trigger plate on the flywheel, move it forward [counter clockwise] until the rear edge is now covering 1/2 of the original hole. Mark the spot, drill & tap [5 MM threads]a new hole, insert screw thru plate[use loc-tite], tighten to flywheel. The best way to remove the original trigger plate screw is to use pliers and twist the plate as you loosen the screw [prevents destroying the screw].
Hope this helps,
go-rebels
Member
Hi Quenton,
I'm a little confused now.
It seems that there are two ways to advance the timing:
1 - Advance the gear one tooth. Any more and you advance the timing too far (poor low speed performance).
2 - Keep the gear alignment the same and move the trigger plate on the flywheel counterclockwise until the rear edge covers 1/2 of the original hole.
Either way you change the timing of the trigger signal relative to the rotational position of the cam an identical amount, right?
I'm a little confused now.
It seems that there are two ways to advance the timing:
1 - Advance the gear one tooth. Any more and you advance the timing too far (poor low speed performance).
2 - Keep the gear alignment the same and move the trigger plate on the flywheel counterclockwise until the rear edge covers 1/2 of the original hole.
Either way you change the timing of the trigger signal relative to the rotational position of the cam an identical amount, right?
RdKryton
Active Member
We are confusing two different things here. Ignition timing is moving the trigger on the flywheel. That is only changing the time when the spark fires. Cam timing is advancing the cam one tooth CCW for different valve timing. Changing the cam one or two teeth CCW will not change the ignition timing. By the same token advancing the ignition timing will not change the cam timing. I hope this helps clear this up for you. It can be easy to confuse the two different types of timing.
Advancing the ignition timing will probably only show a noticeable difference if you engine is highly modified however the cam timing should be done even to a bone stock engine. It will yield the most performance improvement but only one tooth CCW.
Jim
Advancing the ignition timing will probably only show a noticeable difference if you engine is highly modified however the cam timing should be done even to a bone stock engine. It will yield the most performance improvement but only one tooth CCW.
Jim
Last edited:
go-rebels
Member
Ah, yes... my bad!
1) Moving the trigger changes the spark timing, that is when the spark fires relative to the position of the piston. This is the "timing" that we changed on the old cars when we fiddled with a timing light.
2) Moving the gear changes the timing of the valves relative to the postion of the piston. Shade tree mechanics normally never changed this on the older cars.
RdK, thanks for the clarification!
1) Moving the trigger changes the spark timing, that is when the spark fires relative to the position of the piston. This is the "timing" that we changed on the old cars when we fiddled with a timing light.
2) Moving the gear changes the timing of the valves relative to the postion of the piston. Shade tree mechanics normally never changed this on the older cars.
RdK, thanks for the clarification!
RdKryton
Active Member
Glad I could help.
Enjoy the ride. I can't wait for warm weather. It's supposed to snow here tomorrow. Booo
Jim
Enjoy the ride. I can't wait for warm weather. It's supposed to snow here tomorrow. Booo
Jim
