Clutch Happy Time clutch assemblies are horrible!

[Skyliner70cc]

i thought the clutch was the best part of a happytime! they out last top ends most of the time!

Unfortunately, this is so true.

 

[Simonator]

Well, It happened again! I bought a brand new dax engine a few weeks ago. I put about 150 miles on it and the clutch fell apart again!! All the ball bearings came out it AGAIN! This time I KNOW I am not to blame. I bought the motor brand new and never touched the clutch! I don't understand it!!!

 

[skjjoe]

wow i think id call duane on that one he may replace it free

 

[spad4me]

Well, It happened again! I bought a brand new dax engine a few weeks ago. I put about 150 miles on it and the clutch fell apart again!! All the ball bearings came out it AGAIN! This time I KNOW I am not to blame. I bought the motor brand new and never touched the clutch! I don't understand it!!!

There are three places to grease a happy time clutch.
1 where the drive chain goes. A ball and pin (Chinese through out bearing.)

2 Where the clutch spring actually lives.
remove the bolt, and clutch cable end holder from under the carb. Use a grease gun to fill this spot up. It also greases the bearing that is failing on you.


3 the pea sized blob for the gears in the clutch housing.

I just reminded my self I need to re-grease my clutch.

 

[skjjoe]

can you post a diagram or pics of this.. I am getting ready for a build on a new dax

 

[cooltoy]

Would this not call for removing the thingy that holds the clutch cable to the engine block and putting grease into the block, greasing the bearing on the clutch as well as the other one behind the sprocket?

 

[hill climber]

spad4me. #2 is not what bearings they are talking about. this is forgotten by most people though. you are right it does lube the jack shaft bearings, which cause alot of noise, but not the clutch. to lube the clutch, remove it with the tool that came with your kit, on the back is a small hole, grease gun with a pin tip, put a smll amount in this hole and re-install. once you start you bike centrifical force will spread it.

cooltoy, yes this does meen removing the cable stay. this should be done regularlly until it wont take any more grease. this will not grease the clutch though, but should quiet it down considerably.
the clutch must be lubed at the clutch, no way around it.
hill climber

 

[cooltoy]

Thanks Hillclimber, just so I understand, filling the block with grease through the hole created by removing the "cable stay" (not thingy) is good but you still have to remove the clutch to get grease into the bearing on the clutch side?
Learn something every day!

 

[hill climber]

the clutch can not be greased by this hole. there are 2 bearings on the clutch/sprocket shaft. they both get greased through this hole. the clutch assembly has bearings in it also. your clutch is three plates. a fly wheel, this is furthest in against the block. the preasure plate, part nearest you when you remove the clutch cover on the side of the motor. and the friction disk, center part that actually holds the friction pucks. ok. between the fly wheel and the fricton plate there is a bucket load of tiny little ball bearings that just ride in a groove in each plate. these go dry and grind away. there is a hole in the fly wheel to lube these but you must remove the clutch from the shaft to get to it.
hill climber

 

[cooltoy]

I am so glad I read this thread, wow, I never knew that. I drove my last bike for over a year without doing any more than adjust my clutch twice and a spark plug.
I'll wait until I ride the bike for a month or so and will then do all of the above.
I can picture the ball bearings you mention, it's much like our wheel "bearings". No wonder we get such a racket coming from our clutch side.