head and cylinder temperature.

[august]

Has anyone ever checked the temperature of the head and cylinder of the Whizzer engine when running and fully up to operating temperature?

I figured someone might have one of those temp. sensing devices.

I am making a block to isolate the carburetor from the heat of the engine, but need to know how much heat the block material will have to withstand.

Thanks August

 

[Mountainman]

I think that Quenton here on site may be able to help you with this question

doesn't seem like any added protection there should be needed
usually one can touch a carb and to the touch it's not that hot while running even hard

just an idea if that's trully what you wish to do
a shield made of thin tin should be fine
making sure that to one's best not to restrict air flow around the jug

ride that thing

 

[RdKryton]

Hi August
I am pretty sure you will see temps approaching 500 degrees F on an NE5. If modified it can go higher. Whizzer offers an aluminum spacer complete with longer studs however it is too thick. Best results have been found by cutting it down to 1/2" or 5/8" thick. Mine is at 1/2" thick and I don't have any fuel boiling problems and my engine is modified.

Jim

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi August,
An NE motor with the cylinder painted black [cylinder paint], and a copper head gasket should give you head tempatures of 525 degrees. A stock NE with a steel head gasket can reach as high as 625 degrees.
The aluminum manifold kit will easily keep the gas from boiling, but works best at 1/2".

Now if you are refering to a NE-r, all bets are off. From the looks of the head with less fins, and the fact that the top of the motor is tucked under the 2 side covers, I would guess it might run a little hotter, and I wouldn't sit around at idle for long periods of time.

This post isn't to intended to "bash" any company, person, persons, or vendor.
Have fun,

 

[august]

Thanks for the replies.

Mine is the NE R, and I do have the 1 inch thick aluminum spacer , and it has one bakelite type gasket next to the cylinder, and also one between the carb and the spacer. The one time I had it running for a while, when I came back to the shop, and parked the bike, after a couple of minutes, fuel was dripping out the back of the carb. I checked the float level, it is correct.

The carb was too hot to touch. It was hard to start again, because of the fuel boiling I think, and causing flooding.

A question, why would making the block thinner make the carb cooler? I would think that having it thicker would give more material to dissipate the heat before it reaches the carb.

I have some phenolic material, it is rated for four hundred degrees, I would hope that the cylinder temp at the carb would not get much over that.

Regards August

 

[RdKryton]

A question, why would making the block thinner make the carb cooler? I would think that having it thicker would give more material to dissipate the heat before it reaches the carb.

I don't think the smaller aluminum spacer would make it cooler. I think you are dealing with higher temps to begin with because of less cooling fins on the head. My experience is with the NE5 not the NE-R.

Jim

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi August,

I don't think making the manifold shorter would reduce the carburetor tempature.

But I suspect your motor will run a lot hotter, and will need the entire length of the aluminum spacer.

I can tell you a way that might help cool the NE-r carburetor down. Make a "cooler" for the carburetor. Take a 2" square piece of material [aluminum, bakelite, phenolic] 1/4" thick and install in the upright position between the carburetor and the manifold. This would be like installing a large fin to help cool the intake path. I used this method on the early 26 MM carburetor, I was able to bolt the carburetor directly to the cylinder and had the "cooler" as a spacer between the carburetor & cylinder.

Have fun,

 

[august]

I will try the fin idea, in addition to the phenolic block I made. If the phenolic doesn't work, I can go back to the aluminum one.

I also thought about making the aluminum block and cutting or adding some fins to that .

Thanks guys.