How to Properly Torque Head Bolts with Engine in Bike?

[go-rebels]

I'm replacing my steel head gasket with a copper gasket on my NE5 and had a bit of difficulty removing the head bolts due to interference from the bike frame. Question: How do you accurately torque the head bolts when everything is put back together? There just isn't enough room for standard socket bits and a torque wrench. Do I need to remove the engine?

2nd question: There appears to be a damaged thread in the cylinder head on the far left rear 8mm bolt. It's close to the exhaust port so that may be the cause. I'll try to re-tap it, however I'm concerned about longevity, being that it is a aluminum tapped hole. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

[RdKryton]

I remove the gas tank first. Then I use ball end long reach metric allen wrenches on my 3/8" drive inch pound torque wrench. I got my sockets at Harbor Freight for around $15.00
I have not had the thread problem you have on the cylinder so I am of no help there. Just an idea though how about a Heili Coil if the re taping doesn't work? I used one on an aluminum mirror mount with good success but that is not a high temp application. Good luck.

Jim

 

[go-rebels]

Ball-end sockets... hmmm

I'm not at the helicoil point yet, but I'm sure they will work. I've helicoiled all the tapped aluminum mounting holes in my 1970 Internation Cub Caded lawn tractor and they've held for nearly 10 years. But that engine is hardely a high tech engine, like the Whizzer!

 

[RdKryton]

I have used ball end metric allens 3 times on 2 different engines without any problems.

 

[uncle_punk13]

Go with the heli-coils...

Both WC-1 engines I had were plagued with this problem. I repaired with
heli-coils (the first time was in Wyoming, in a parking lot at the truck stop with a bare minimum of tools ) and it worked like a charm. I haven't noticed this problem on either of my NE-5 engines, but that doesn't mean it wouldn't happen. The aluminum used in these castings appears to be a very soft alloy, so certainly it seems as though this would be a good precautionary measure...
Please, any of the Experts, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong in recommending this.

 

[RdKryton]

rif
My only concern was using a heili coil where a lot of heat was present. I looks like your success with them make heat a non issue.

Jim

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I'm replacing my steel head gasket with a copper gasket on my NE5 and had a bit of difficulty removing the head bolts due to interference from the bike frame. Question: How do you accurately torque the head bolts when everything is put back together? There just isn't enough room for standard socket bits and a torque wrench. Do I need to remove the engine?

This was the EXACT predicament I was in this week. One particular headbolt was directly under the frame. To remove the head I had to loosen the top two motor mounts and tilt the engine to right side a little.

It was a consolation that just the tank and pulley cover were the only items on the bike that needed removal. Even the fuel line was left intact.

BTW, does anyone know what the tightening sequence and amount of inch-pounds necessary for torquing the head back on?

 

[go-rebels]

From Quenton:

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=9053&highlight=bolt+torque

 

[old whizzer]

Just replaced head gasket and head that Quenton milled. I unbolted the motor mounts and clutch arm removed the gas tank and pushed the engine to the right and blocked it with a hamer handel -torqued the head bolts then bolted everything back in place. Power increase is remarkable! Will wait for a warmer day to tweak carb.
Ralph

 

[uncle_punk13]

rif
My only concern was using a heili coil where a lot of heat was present. I looks like your success with them make heat a non issue.

Jim

I used a drop of red (high temp.) locktite on the thread (at the bottom), let it set up, and ran the bolts in. I dropped the drop of locktite on the helicoil and ran it in to distribute along the threads as I inserted it. It seems to have worked...:???: