shortening throttle cable

emdude

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northern AZ, 1 mile high
The throttle cable that came with my engine kit was entirely too long for the "clean" installation I wanted. Getting the correct cable length on the clutch was of course no problem. So here's what I did to shorten the throttle cable:

I removed the throttle cable completely from the carburetor.

Lined up the the black outer cable exactly with the top of the carburetor once I was satisfied this would be the correct final length.

Marked that position on the the black throttle cable.

Removed the entire throttle cable from the bike.

Cut off the little nipple that goes into the slide of the carburetor and removed the inner wire cable from the black sleeve completely.

Cut the outer black sleeve to the marked position.

Reinstalled the inner wire into the black sleeve...and made a new nipple. That's the fun part as follows:

I wrapped some 22 AWG bus wire tightly around the cable for about 5 turns. Cut the edges of the bus wire and massaged them cleanly and tightly into place. The bus wire was now tightly wrapped around the cable.

Then I took the piece of the black outer sleeve I had cut off and lined it up exactly with the end of the wire cable. Now the bus wire wrap was slid into position at the OTHER end of the black sleeve I had cut off since I needed to remove exactly the same amount of inner cable as I did outer sleeve.

I then simply soldered the bus wire wrap onto the cable at the correct position as determined above and with VERY LITTLE solder. Just enough solder to melt into the buss wire wrap and to flow into the cable. Tested for strength and cut off the extra cable behind the "new" nipple.

This kind of thing was much easier when I was a kid because you could buy the round nipple ends as they go into break levers and as they are in the twist throttle assembly that were mounted to the cable with a worm screw. Haven't been able to find those at any bike shop here.

I hope I've attached some photos that will show some detail. Throttle 1 shows the bus wire wrap slid into position with the cust sleeve next to it before soldering into position.

Throttle 2 shows the "new" nipple after soldering and cutting the cable.

And yes, that is a vintage HH Scott 299C tube amp undergoing refurbishment that the parts are sitting on.

As I said, I used 22 AWG bus wire because it's what I had. You could use anything that fits really. Just wrap whatever wire you may find around the cable and check to see if it will work in the slide once you soldered it.
 

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....And yes, that is a vintage HH Scott 299C tube amp undergoing refurbishment that the parts are sitting on.....

Another fellow "vintage" audio enthusiast!

I've got a small collection of old tube gear - my "main" stereo is a 1964 Fisher 500-C that I refurbished over 20 years ago. Like your 299C, the Fisher uses those hard to find 7591A output tubes. The russians now make this tube again, but it is a bit taller than the original and won't fit in a Fisher with a cabinet.


Oh - and good job on the custom cable!
 
nice -- the solder idea is fine for what you used it for -- the throttle
not to be done on brakes -- unless one truly understands the importance of strenth needed

yes I remember back in the old bicycle shop days
the cable end pieces with set screws -- dangerous in the wrong hands


ride the motor bike thing
 
Good solution for cable shortening. I'll be trying it if I can't get throttle stops.
 
Yeah, it works great and is plenty strong enough for the application. As someone else pointed out it should NOT be used in a high stress position as in the breaks but this is not an issue as cable length adjustment can be made at the break end.

I used 22 AWG bus wire. Any wire can be used of course even if you take it from some spool if insulated wire that you strip. Just test it in the slide before soldering to make sue whatever you come up with is neither too large or too small to fit into the groove in the slide correctly.
 
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