things are going TOO good!

"80cc" is actually about 65cc, as most dealers are now admitting.

all the HT's have the same stroke, but different bore...for some reason, the (constant) port-timing seems ideal for this bore size.

we ran a sample 65cc up here once, did 37+mph (44t) right out of the box...i mean it wuz sca-reamin'! almost right away, we knew what to expect...it blew itself to pieces in under 300 miles...the typical "needle-bearing-embedded-in-the-cylinder-wall" trick...we eventually deduced that not enuff lube gets to the underside of the HT piston.

use 20:1, and be as conservative as is possible for you.

yeah i broke it in on 14:1 and im still skeptical about the 20:1 i run it on now, i mean there is little to no smoke coming out the exhaust but im positive its 20:1. would using higher octain gas and more expensive synthetic oils doo any different? ive come 2500km on the original spark plug and standard 84 octain shell gas with the 4 bucks a half liter oil. also how do these engines fail? when it goes on me will it just loose compression like my old honda motors, or will it explode causing me to crash and most likely die?(sarcasm)
 
Once in a while a hapy time engine will live a long time.
Dont change anything.

I know of a only handful of happy time engines as reliable. as you describe.
YEARS OLD
I broke mine in with about the same amount of oil. cant say for the others.
Gas tank fuel lines and the chain killed me.
Some small mods needle, mouse can muffle,r large air filte, and gas filter, sparkplug, with good wire.

Latest fix is a tuned pipe to try the exhaust.
It now passes traffic that used to pass me.
drilled out the jet slightly. too
I havent ported it yet.
LUCK OF THE DRAW.

After about 15 months of daily use ( about 2 hours a day continuous, or not, at random) the engine compression is still so high it will stall you trying to start it cold.
LOL
You better be going downhill when you try to start my happy time when the engine is cold.
 
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Once in a while a hapy time engine will live a long time.
Dont change anything.

I know of a only handful of happy time engines as reliable. as you describe.
YEARS OLD
I broke mine in with about the same amount of oil. cant say for the others.
Gas tank fuel lines and the chain killed me. Latest fix is a tuned pipe to fix the awful exhaust.
LUCK OF THE DRAW.

what i found works great for the awful exhaust was drill one 1/4th" hole on the very bottom of the baffle next to the original pipe. it makes the engine slightly deeper and you can hear the exhaust escaping so its more poppy. like popatapopatatata. so its not to loud but wow is it faster, well torquer. it has alot more torque and therefore it reaches the top end faster. who knew a small hole would do that? and it leaves enough backpresure to run well. but i hope my engine works good for along time to go, i dont mine rebuilding it because i found new pistons and cylenders online real cheap, aslong as the bottom end doesnt go because they dont have replacment cranks.
 
what i found works great for the awful exhaust was drill one 1/4th" hole on the very bottom of the baffle next to the original pipe. it makes the engine slightly deeper and you can hear the exhaust escaping so its more poppy. like popatapopatatata. so its not to loud but wow is it faster, well torquer. it has alot more torque and therefore it reaches the top end faster. who knew a small hole would do that? and it leaves enough backpresure to run well. but i hope my engine works good for along time to go, i dont mine rebuilding it because i found new pistons and cylenders online real cheap, aslong as the bottom end doesnt go because they dont have replacment cranks.

What your using is called a moouse can muffler

Look here for inspiration

http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/Mufflers/

I just installed a tuned pipe very nice.
 
but i still used the original muffler. all i did was make a small hole?


I started with a small hole then. I cut off the tube on both sides of the muffler end cap. Then finally a mouse can then, after a about year a tuned pipe soon to be ported
I figure I broke it in up till now. LOL
 
also how do these engines fail? when it goes on me will it just loose compression like my old honda motors, or will it explode causing me to crash and most likely die?(sarcasm)
IF this happens to yer HT, there will be an audible period where the roller-cage is falling apart...sometimes, you'll have enough warning to shut it down & do a repair...sometimes not.

if a roller gets loose and winds up in the chamber, she can freeze like a cube...you won't die, just pull in the clutch :cool:
 
IF this happens to yer HT, there will be an audible period where the roller-cage is falling apart...sometimes, you'll have enough warning to shut it down & do a repair...sometimes not.

if a roller gets loose and winds up in the chamber, she can freeze like a cube...you won't die, just pull in the clutch :cool:
so HT engines have bearings in them? i thought there were only bushings. so when the bearings or roller cage as you call them begin to go i jut kill the engine, pedal home and buy a new set and replace them? this is what you talking about right http://www.ikont.co.jp/eg/product/needle/ndl03.html
not htose exact ones but that type of bearing in general
 
yup, them's the ones...

bushing engines had the same oiling problem, but you could run that bushing down to paper-thin without any other damage in most cases...press a new one, off ya go.

kind of a tough call, the bearings are the obvious answer when they hang in there, but the bushings didn't cost as much in the long run.
 
yup, them's the ones...

bushing engines had the same oiling problem, but you could run that bushing down to paper-thin without any other damage in most cases...press a new one, off ya go.

kind of a tough call, the bearings are the obvious answer when they hang in there, but the bushings didn't cost as much in the long run.

so how will i know if i have bearings or bushings without ripping it apart?
 
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