Well I finaly got one to work for now.
It does take a bit of beating about, there are angles to think about, not too much spring tightness and not too much loosnes either.
One of the problems encountered is when releasing the clutch, the swivel arm can tend to go down too far, lonewolf has added a bolt to stop this.
I suggest a 2nd spring, just lose enough to not be active during normal riding, but cuts in when releasing the clutch. ( double action spring chain tensioner)
I did not use the drill hole method, but used the kit's adjustment slot, but has a lock washer to grip.
The swivel bolt swivels on a flat needle roller bearing set. By "set" it means it comes in 3 pieces, 2 are flat washer like bearing metal that is a must, to work with the needle rollers. This gives the swivel 0 tolerance therefore no side play.
Lots of molly and it works fine. Tighten it up with lock washer on inside, so the lock washer is between the bearing washer and kits tensioner arm.
Stage 2 pictures will show another version I'm working on the next build, but I must admit, the one shown here;
fenderhole: you can also buy one from livefastmotors
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motor...spagenameZWDVW
its the same one i used on my bike, works excellent! but i guess that takes all the fun out of making it yourself.
is a good alternative also, but have not tried it yet.
On early test, when releasing the clutch and as soon as the engine starts, the chain may lock up up against the casing and the small sprocket.
Idler wheel may have to be implemented at the small sprocket end to stop the chain from jumping to high.
This is a viable project for anyone to try.
Well worth the effort, smoother riding and no metalic jolting which may cause stress on bike's frame and engine mounts.
or buying a ready made spring tensioner is a cool option to.
Available tools used for now; drill press, angle grinder, bench grinder.