Build ...phase 1

[cooltoy]

Why don't you just get a blow torch and do it yourself? Get it red and it will bend like nothing.
Also, the way I see it, if you mount the rear mount first and let it seat, I think the carb will fit.(pic 6779)

 

[srdavo]

bending the exhaust is only a cosmetic issue.

there are more important things involved in this build.

 

[echotraveler]

hello friends! its 3 in the morning here in Puerto Rico, im happy to report that all the tasks of the day have been complete after a lot searching.

It seems this kind of job is not really desireable by machine shops, but at the end i got the guy, hes name is Angel Velasquez and his a milling expert, has the right tools.

so we bent the muffler, yeah pretty easy (but no muffler man said yes to it)

he bored the rear sprocket, it seems chinese sprokets are not really super centered, but we got around and did it on a very professional machine.

and also did the carb, that took a bit more thinking but was well worth it, guaranted job by a professional welder.

without his work this build would be so much harder....in 3 days ill re-visit him to finish some details, just because he was such a cool guy.

all in all we spent 4 hours tinkering. hope you guys enjoy the pics

also: whats that U shaped thing i photographed.

plz shime in.

ps. im not understanding the wires for the kill switch. (ill look in search)

 

[cooltoy]

Really hard to see the pic of the U-bolt but I Would say that is a front engine mount for bikes with fat tubes. The U goes around the bikes tube and the flat bar is what bolts to the engine block. It's an extra part for now.
You are right about the Chinese sprockets and you did a good job of centring the hole, you are lucky to have found that guy. A lot of bike repair shops look at you like you are crazy so you found a good guy.
I've never seen a motor on such an angle, I hope the carb is level for the fuel bowls sake. Hard to see from the pic.

 

[echotraveler]

Really hard to see the pic of the U-bolt but I Would say that is a front engine mount for bikes with fat tubes. The U goes around the bikes tube and the flat bar is what bolts to the engine block. It's an extra part for now.
You are right about the Chinese sprockets and you did a good job of centring the hole, you are lucky to have found that guy. A lot of bike repair shops look at you like you are crazy so you found a good guy.
I've never seen a motor on such an angle, I hope the carb is level for the fuel bowls sake. Hard to see from the pic.

the carb is leveled

ill post another thread with a working MB, still not finished, cause i would like to paint.

 

[echotraveler]

Rear Sprocket 3-speed hub, problems and experience.

hello friends having 3-speed coaster break hub posses some special situations that i would like to discuss. Plz share your thoghts.

1. buying low profile screws for the sproket to make sure the coaster break arm doesn't get in the way of the sproket

2. the whole in the center of the sproket is too small!!! i need to make it bigger! how much?

3. the sproket has to be clear off the dust cover of the hub.

.

Nexus Hubs have a dust cover on the coaster break arm side. that dust cover made me bore the center of the rear sproket so it could fit.

Last night i installed and tightend it very well, it seemed super cool, and tight, perfect fit. but the wheel seemed to be stuck for some reason, it was very hard to turn the wheel, but maybe it was the transmission had gone crazy.

well after mounting the wheel i could not turn the wheel with the chain, so i started looking @ the hub and the answere. the dust cover didnt turn with the wheel, so the rear sproket was grinding the dust cover....i loosened the screws and some how the wheel got free.

i remember the guy that did the bore told me he gave me a bigger whole, so i could play just a tiny bit.

right now i can have a free running wheel IF i dont tighten the wheel that much, because when it gets gets really compressed it gets stock for some reason ( 1 could be the sproket hitting a bigger diameter at the edge of the hub and dust cover, or 2 the black rubber spacers may touch the dust cover making resistance. or both)

probably is the black rubbers that compress, because i can fit a piece of paper between the sproket and the hub while the wheel is spinning


Any thoughts?

 

[echotraveler]

nobody?

 

[macarollo]

Do yourself a HUGE favor before you finish your install....

Throw away ALL of the stock hardware and buy grade 8 nuts and bolts.

ALSO, put locktite on EVERY bolt.

Those two steps will save you a LOT of breakdowns.

 

[echotraveler]

thanx macarollo, i will eventually upgrade the bolts, and they all got locktite on them. =-)

right now im trying to get the kit working...tilting the motor involves a lot of little alterations that take a lot of time to achive....its a custom happy time. lol

today im looking for more chain, because the tilted motor is too far away from the sproket....hope i can get this chain today. also, the kill switch wires are to short. in everything that connects to the motor has been modified, except the cdi. lol a kit that can be mounted in 5 hours, has taken 2 weeks for me, i must be a dumb/genius hihihi...

ill be posting pics tonight