Valve noise?

The dynamat will reduce the clatter at idle, and the gear whine to a certain degree.

The danger is in the possibility that the engine is "leaning out" at high revs/load.

I have found that the "80cc" (66cc) models tend to run a bit rich at idle/mid range, but lean out as RPM's go up.

To check idle mixture, warm up the engine and shut off the fuel valve. As the fuel bowl runs dry, the engine RPM should rise slightly before the engine stalls. If the engine RPM's rise quite a bit before the engine stalls, you need to lower the jet needle by raising the c-clip a notch and re-testing.

To get rid of the "lean bog" at high RPM, I use a .80mm miniature drill in a pin vise to open up the main jet. Some people here have reported that their carbs are jetted too rich, so be sure that yours leaning out at top RPM. If your engine has more power at a lower setting than WOT, it is too lean. Continued operation will eventually kill the engine.

The problem with the rich low end is that it can fool you into thinking the mixture is rich enough because the plug might be wet with oil.

I've read that the problem lies in the fact that many factories use the exact same carb regardless of engine displacement, and the carb is designed for 50cc engines.

To add to fetor56's suggestion, replace the acorn nuts with standard hex nuts with washer and lockwasher, and torque to 12 lb/ft in several stages. (in an X pattern)
 
I've read that the problem lies in the fact that many factories use the exact same carb regardless of engine displacement, and the carb is designed for 50cc engines.

To add to fetor56's suggestion, replace the acorn nuts with standard hex nuts with washer and lockwasher, and torque to 12 lb/ft in several stages. (in an X pattern)

My engine did not have acorn nuts on the head or and part of the engine except the intake.....where can I get a 66cc carb that is NOT HT, I want aftermarket.

I tried the thing you said about running the fual bowl dry yesterday, and I did not notice rpm's increase at all, it just all the sudden quite after about 5 minutes.
 
In which case, raise the jet needle. This will fatten up the mixture on the low/mid range but re-jetting is the only way to fatten up the top end.

What brand of engine did you end up with - a Grubee, or a GasBike "house brand".

I don't know of any aftermarket carbs that will jut "bolt on" and go. :(
 
Running the engine new on 32:1 might have caused some damage - especially if you revved it up too high. They take 500 kms to run in at about 25 km\hr max speed and at a mix of 15:1. A metallic noise could be a piston ring - I've had them go right from the first week.
Hard to tell.
 
First of all 32:1 is not enough oil to gas for break-in. THEY say 16:1 for the first gallon ( two tanks ) aprox. Your at less than 1/2 that. But I'm old an stupid! I belive in the old world ways......Break it in the way your going to Ride It!!!! Good Luck
 
Not enough oil

I have a friend breaking in her motor at 32 to 1. After a short ride on the bike it started to leak oil from around the head. It also doesn't sound normal for a two-stroke...

What do you think is wrong with this motor? If it is a ring or two are they cheap? Is this a fairly easy fix?

Thanks in advance! :confused:
 
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