51 Columbia - First build

Here is my 51 Columbia.

http://motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=581

I started it in December. I do not have welding skills (yet) so a cool tank and laid-back seat post are in the plans.

Features:
26" Workman wheels: drum front with 10.5 gauge spokes, coaster rear with 11 gauge spokes
kill switch is wonderful
ghost sprocket as tensioner


Problems:
chain/wheel clearance
front springer not functional - shoulder bolts?
tank or faux tank - Does anyone have drawings/pictures of tanks in progress?
laid-back seat post
electrical
im shy about chopping off the original tank tabs

Any feedback? Suggestions? Comments?
 
Click to expand...
My first build was on a '46 Columbia frame, but without the springer. As to the problem with your springer, I think I might have figured it out. Looking at the close up shot, the silver-colored links that connect the front and rear parts of the fork might need to be repositioned. I see that they're on the inside of the rear part of the fork and on the outside of the front part. Try positioning them on the inside (or outside) of both, as I think it's binding on the inside of the rear part of the fork instead of pivoting upwards.
 
Thanks for the input...
I did that to make way for the front hub. I had to bend the forks back to "straight" but I wasn't sure I wanted to spread them too. Maybe I'll have to to keep the X-FD. I put nylon washer between the plate and the forks in hope that that would provide some lubrication.
 
hey i love that flying chain tensioner!!! i saw one of those tensioners but thought MB's would spit them out on the first bump, pretty scary!

how does is handle the road? by the way great freaking looking bike!
 
That is a very sharp bike, with, or without an engine. I have to admit, that ghost sprocket scares me . How long have you been running it?
 
El Feo

Because of the chain/tire issue, it hasn't ridden much, but a couple roads are messed up around here (and I go off curbs), so it bounces enough for me to think the ghost sprocket is good and safe. It's a bear to get in and out because I've tried to push it in as far as possible so that I can put a u-lock through the center and around the seat post and it's safe from sticky fingers).
I bought another compression kit so that I can put the "metal thirds" between the compression rings and the sprocket to move it out an 8th to clear the tire. If you look close you can see the chain marks. That is after I reversed the tire. A 26x1.75 doesn't fit on workman rims. You can see in the ghost sprocket pic that I pinched the frame. I'll have to pinch another inch or so... If I want it to look good later, I'll have to use a lite hammer...
 
wership said:
Because of the chain/tire issue, it hasn't ridden much, but a couple roads are messed up around here (and I go off curbs), so it bounces enough for me to think the ghost sprocket is good and safe. It's a bear to get in and out because I've tried to push it in as far as possible so that I can put a u-lock through the center and around the seat post and it's safe from sticky fingers).
I bought another compression kit so that I can put the "metal thirds" between the compression rings and the sprocket to move it out an 8th to clear the tire. If you look close you can see the chain marks. That is after I reversed the tire. A 26x1.75 doesn't fit on workman rims. You can see in the ghost sprocket pic that I pinched the frame. I'll have to pinch another inch or so... If I want it to look good later, I'll have to use a lite hammer...
Click to expand...

there are 2 sides on the rear sprocket...one is inward and the other outward. My chain was rubbing on to my worksman, because i put the sproket inward, thanx to my forum friends, i found out so, just turning over mine because my worksman wheel is pretty thick too.

i have an allignment problem...hopefull to work it out tonight.
 
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51 Columbia - First build ---- UPDATED 7-26

Check out my folder:
http://motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=581

I added an extra sprocket spacer to the inside of the rear sprocket to move the chain away from the tire. Once I true the tire, it should be enough to not have any more rubbing.
I changed the mounting system, which I am not happy with. I hard bolted the rear mount on, and wedged rubber between scrap conduit straps as a wedge in the front mount.
I have worked out a electrical system with working headlight, turn signals and brake light on a trickle charged small 12v battery.
I replaced the 48 tooth with a 36 tooth sprocket up front to give the motor more clearance and to make it easier to get the bike up to speed. I am not thrilled with the pattern but it was 5 bucks.
I am working on a faux tank to hide the electrical and a modified stock tank.

Any comments? Suggestions? Reactions?
 

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i havent worked on this bike for a long time, its just been sitting like a piece of art on top of my workbench for a couple years... brought down, started up, ridden around the block, and put back up...

i did make a beefier chain tensioner with some heim joints, threaded rod, and a tensioner from tractor supply... ill have to take pictures when there is better light and post them...

recently i tried making a tank with 22 gauge steel but when i went to weld more than tacking i blew right through the material... then my buddy said, why dont we try brazing it just for kicks... well we warped it pretty good...
so i went and bought a sheet of 18 gauge and cut out the pieces again and am trying to put one back together... oh and im just learning to weld so those tacks are ALL over the place...

the idea is to have a battery tray and then the back 2/3 would be the tank... similar to what i posted before...
heres my start:

rivets to hold the electrics tray



tray



with electrics and boost bottle option just in case...

 
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