My hybrid/tribrid

Thanks Danny.

I rode to Bitter Lake Wildlife Refuge and the first compatibility issue arose. When the Happy Time starts, the e-motor stops working. Best it will do is a funny lurch at low e-throttle.

I am certain the problem is electrical interference, and the solution is shielding the 4 control wires to/from the hub motor.

My concern is minimal since the e-motor is mostly to keep me from getting stranded.
 
The control signal wires are in the same cable coming out of the motor as the A-B-C wires, but separated from the connector to the controller. I will correct that and shield the control wires. All cables will be shortened and the controller mounted on the frame in front of the diamond.

The power wires (battery to controller) were ridiculously light, maybe 20 gauge, and will be replaced. The three A-B-C wires will be doubled. I notice other brands have VERY heavy wires.

The controller chip is an HA3089-1 which appears to be a PIC microprocessor.

This is supposed to be the schematic, or is very close to it:
http://www.kraeuterbutter.at/Bilder2/Radnabenmotor_Vorderreifen/Schaltplan.gif

The control signal wires are in the same cable coming out of the motor as the A-B-C wires, but separated from the connector to the controller. I will correct that and shield the control wires. All cables will be shortened and the controller mounted on the frame in front of the diamond. The control signal wires are in the same cable coming out of the motor as the A-B-C wires, but separated from the connector to the controller. I will correct that and shield the control wires. All cables will be shortened and the controller mounted on the frame in front of the diamond.

Bill (Flap)
 
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It might be better and easier to treat the HT engine.What is your kill switch setup using white or blue wire?.Most likely magnetic fields, ordinary RF shielding not all that effective.Using white wire much safer from standpoint of EMI potential.
 
It might be better and easier to treat the HT engine.What is your kill switch setup using white or blue wire?.Most likely magnetic fields, ordinary RF shielding not all that effective.Using white wire much safer from standpoint of EMI potential.

I considered that, but having the wires from the hall effect transistors in the same bundle as the power (Which carries either sine wave, or trapezoidal waves depending on mode) needs to be corrected. Also it worries me that the wires are too light. Cables are much longer than necessary in places, and too short going into the controller from the battery box. Anyhow, it will give me peace of mind if I make changes. May also add a fuse to the power from the battery.

Thanks for the input. This is a learning experience for me.
 
Using a shorting switch to frame ground in the blue wire is not a good idea,al sorts of elct.junk on there.This magnetic coupling involves,induction into LOOPS,so anything with frame as the elct. dumping ground thus creating a loop is more susceptible,twisting wires to reduce the mutual coupling helps as does separating circuits,the 5V sensor line from the motor is probably quite vulnerable.Good luck.
 
Try WW if it does the job use that instead.The elct. junk on BW goes all the way to killswitch up front &back.If still used twist wires to reduce magn.field.Use single grnd for ign.at motor.Watch out for ground loops too (using frame grounds ),The micro it self can get messed up directly also.
 
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