push trailer 4 stroke question

Good idea but a cooling fan and edger puts low stress on that belt. If used to drive I can only guess that it would suffer from insane wear. I haven't seen it though.
 
Roto-tillers often have a 90 degree gearbox, and are geared so that they could be usable. (Apx. 250 RPM range for engines running at 3500-4000 RPM. If you remove the engine governor, the gearbox output shaft might be spinning at the right RPM for a 1:1 to 2:1 chain drive hookup to a 26 inch bike tire.
 
Roto-tillers often have a 90 degree gearbox, and are geared so that they could be usable. (Apx. 250 RPM range for engines running at 3500-4000 RPM. If you remove the engine governor, the gearbox output shaft might be spinning at the right RPM for a 1:1 to 2:1 chain drive hookup to a 26 inch bike tire.

Heyyyy.... There's a mantis tiller for sale down the street...

-Mark
 
Not a good design... It might work for a while, but, think about it.

  1. You're applying the friction drive pressure to the sidewall, where the rubber is thinnest...
  2. Assume the drive roller is a half-inch 'thick', top-to-bottom. The top of the roller is at about 12.5 inches from the axle, whereas the bottom of the roller is at about 12 inches from the axle. This means that at a given ground speed, the portion of the tire in contact with the top of the roller wants to move at a radial speed (in RPM) that is about 5% slower than the part of the tire in contact with the bottom of the roller. (it's farther away from the axle - the radius is larger) Since one part of the tire wants to move at a faster rpm than another, you're going to get excess friction wear and heat, which will tend to wear through the thin sidewalls even faster.
  3. The IDLE roller, intended to keep the tire in place, will ALSO be causeing the same sort of tire sidewall heat and friction...
Having sidewall breakdowns is NOT in your best interest.
 
Not a good design... It might work for a while, but, think about it.

  1. You're applying the friction drive pressure to the sidewall, where the rubber is thinnest...
  2. Assume the drive roller is a half-inch 'thick', top-to-bottom. The top of the roller is at about 12.5 inches from the axle, whereas the bottom of the roller is at about 12 inches from the axle. This means that at a given ground speed, the portion of the tire in contact with the top of the roller wants to move at a radial speed (in RPM) that is about 5% slower than the part of the tire in contact with the bottom of the roller. (it's farther away from the axle - the radius is larger) Since one part of the tire wants to move at a faster rpm than another, you're going to get excess friction wear and heat, which will tend to wear through the thin sidewalls even faster.
  3. The IDLE roller, intended to keep the tire in place, will ALSO be causeing the same sort of tire sidewall heat and friction...
Having sidewall breakdowns is NOT in your best interest.

Wow, it's the simple things that people never look at that are the most dangerous. I would never have thought about the different speeds from the portion of the tire that is near the rim to the side near the thread.

Good points.
 
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