Warning To Fellow Mb'ers

mattysids

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Joined
Jul 29, 2009
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Location
Massachusetts
This is my first MB project

I ordered my engine form King's (didn't check here first)

and got THIS:

-my SBP head stud pulled the entire threading out of the engine block (fatal blow)

-all mounting and exhaust bolts were rusted and damaged (clutch cover screws COMPLETELY stripped out)

-metal behind drive sprocket is EXTREMELY rusted (no pic because of chain blocking the image)

-their customer support told me to fill the head stud hole with J-B weld and shove the head stud in, no new engine for me

PICTURES BELOW
 

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Sorry for your probs matty...JB weld is worth a try,but i'm not overly optomistic about it(especially as a long term fix)
Looks like with the clutch cover screws your going to get one shot at it/them with an impact driver(straight bit,not Phillips)..........make it your best.
 
This is my first MB project

I ordered my engine form King's (didn't check here first)

and got THIS:

-my SBP head stud pulled the entire threading out of the engine block (fatal blow)

-all mounting and exhaust bolts were rusted and damaged (clutch cover screws COMPLETELY stripped out)

-metal behind drive sprocket is EXTREMELY rusted (no pic because of chain blocking the image)

-their customer support told me to fill the head stud hole with J-B weld and shove the head stud in, no new engine for me

PICTURES BELOW

Hello,

The SBP head stud pulled out of the block because you over-torqued it. This is not the fault of SBP since they sold you a stronger stud which is what you wanted nor is it the fault of the engine manufacturer since all of these motors are made out of Alluminum/Zinc or a compound thereof. Alluminum/Zinc is always softer than steel so if you overtighten the result will always be the same. It is possible to fix this problem. I wouldn't recomend JB-Weld for this application however. The proper fix is a Heli-coil
or you can retap the hole for a larger diameter stud.

Your problem with the clutch cover is probably due to using the incorrect type or size of screwdriver. You were probably using a Philips screwdriver which is incorrect for the application. As I recall a Metric-Philips is the correct driver. It may also be a Pozidrive which is also different from a standard Philips. A Metric Philips is not pointed at the end and if you try to use a regular Philips it will not seat properly and will just mess up the head of the bold. As has already been suggested you might want to use a slotted impact driver to get those out.

As for the rust. These engines get shipped from China in the cheapest method possible. Possibly spending several months at sea in a container. Rust is to be expected. You didn't exactly pay the price for airmail. It is cheap for a reason. All of the kits I have built have had some rust and it has never been a problem. It is just surface rust and it only affects the appearance.
 
it says to torque to 12 ft lbs in the directions

i only replaced the stud after i saw the stock one pull out ON ITS OWN WITHOUT ME TOUCHING IT

then , after replacing it the stud simply slid in and out freely and i couldn't torque it beyond 1 ft lb

the clutch cover screws CAME TO ME in that condition

I wouldn't be complaining if this was all my fault

And the rust just added to the overall fail of this project
 
man...i'd be ****ed if i were you!!!!
i got my motor and it was in PERFECT condition when i opened the box.
mine was made in jan, 2009 so it had been sitting for a few months before i got it.
NOTHING on my motor has rust on it, and all of the screws are like new. my frined bought a motor too, and his was the same way out of the box....perfect. (we both bought ours from boygofast and they are excellent)
the stripped screws sounds like maybe you got a motor that someone returned because they couldn't get those screws out for some reason reason. (because THEY were using the wrong tool). maybe that motor has already been ran, and someone was having clutch issues so they tried to take the cover off to check the clutch? i'd be leary on what the inside of that motor looks like, especially with the head stud problem. sounds like someone else tried to re-torque the studs BEFORE you got the motor and they over torqued them. the studs, bolts and screws in these motors are low grade, and they strip and break really easy.
a helicoil is probably the easiest and least expensive fix (but if you don't have a helicoil kit to install them, it can get a little pricey).
your other option as someone else suggested is to drill the hole out, re-tap it and go with 1 size bigger stud. (more work than what it sounds like) but you'd also have to drill out the one hole in the head so the head will slide over the stud. the hole in the cylinder will have to be drilled out perfectly straight and only that can be done by pulling the motor apart to the bare block, and having someone will a drill press do it (that knows what they're doing) or have a machine shop do it for you. OR, you could use a hand drill and go one drill bit size at a time, trying to follow the original hole as the drill bit goes in. This can be done too, but it wil be very time consuming. if the hole isn't drilled perfectly straight, the stud will end up being crooked, and it won't line up with the hole in the head.
man, i wouldn't even attempt to fix it, i would demand a new motor from them, and don't send that one back until you get a new one. but, from what their customer service suggested, sounds like they probably won't send you another one.
 
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Excuse me if I seem incredulous but our society has produced a bunch of "precious snowflakes" that seem to be incapable of taking responsibility for their own actions.

If you indeed did receive a motor with a head stud that was stripped without you every laying a wrench on it then please accept my apology. Your course of action should be to send the engine back and demand warranty as this is the right thing to do.

Otherwise the only thing to do is fix it. Please be aware that the Time-sert thread repair solution has a flange that may interfere with the jug.
 
I JB weld all of the threads on a new motor before they are stripped. Its one of my build tips that I highly suggest. BTW, i usually replace the studs with US made ones that don't snap abruptly.
 
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