Turnigy HXT Powered Custom Cruiser Worklog

Thanks for the kind words and support PoPs :)

The cyclone 500watt and a nuVinci hub you say..12v 28ah...
you will get a far bit of distance wont be exillerating performance
though buddy, depending on terrain and pedal assist i would estimate
~15-20milebut dont hold mme to that. IMHO you would be better
off going with 3 12v SLAs if you can swing it and ramp it up to 36v

With regards to the hard tail rear, TBH i dont really know LoL...i preach
to most get a full suspension bike and here i am going with a hard
tail LoL...I have a lil surprise in tonights update though PoPs might
make a lil more sense when you see the last too pics buddy (thsts just
a "dummy" seat too, its one of my old ones off the first trike that
i cut down a lil too far, bit too uncomforatble for me, will either
re-upholster or buy a new one and cut it down again like i did on
the trike, they are only 20 bucks from Movement Systems here in Perth :)

Sprnger front end? not on this one buddy. I am still in two minds which
way to go and am waiting on a a mate to bring around a Mountain bike
shock he has for me too slap on the bike for a look, if this isn't used
i might...miiiight not firm, build a fork similar to this-->

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(fork on the bike on right of pic)


OK PoPs..wait no longer for an update here ya go SIR-->

Update

Bit of a late one today the rear of the frame is progressing
along nicely but boy am i knackered, long days take it out
of this ole timer haha.... I had to redo my work several
times this afternoon until i was satisfied...i think the
neighbours might have also picked up a few new swear
words, wasn't easy sailing by a long shot i just wasn't
on my game today, in the end though, it all came together
and im rapt rapt with the look...here's what i have for you
all this evening anywayz-->

Frame_fab_series_pic3a.jpg


The rear dropouts are fully welded inside , ill get some
close up MACROs tomorrow in the daylight, you cant
see the welds i run a double fillet weld adn hit it with the
flap disk it looks nice IMHO... I have also shown in the
last two pics WHY i have opted to mount the upper rear
tubing in front of the "seat tube" doing so leaves adequate
area for the "mini shock" that will suspend the seat and save
my kidneys ;-) The tubing IS NOT welded to the frame
at all, i want to complete the lower tubing tomorrow
prior to welding. The gap between the rear drop-outs is
180mm the 3 speed i intend using for "everyday cruising"
is 175mm from lock nut to lock nut. I intend to rip a
rear wheel off my trike tomorrow (has 20x4.25 rims/tires
and slot it into the rear end to make 100% sure there's
adequate clearance, i know there is but i'm HANGIN
to see how she looks with a fat 4inch 20 on the ***
end haha......ok I'm out please if you have any
suggestions or question feel free to fire away...

KiM
 
Completed Rear Frame Pics

Update

In a bit of a rush have a few buds dropping in this evening after work for drinks, so i wont ramble on suffice to say
i completed the a s s end of the frame today, it is 95% fully welded towards end of day my trigger in the welder hand piece
is sticking, will fix this tomorrow and complete the welds on the frame..pics of afternoons work-->

Frame_fab_series_pic3b.jpg


I'm very happy with the way it has turned out, only welds not fully completed are the underside of the tubing, topsides all fully welded..

I shall move on to the suspension mechanism for the seat next...more soon

KiM
 
Beautiful work (as always). When they build batteries that can get me 33 miles at speed (or if I move closer to town), this will be an important reference work.
 
OK Kim, I have the same pipe bending outfit, I am going to bend some pipe! I love this stuff. I noticed one thing, if I may, on the drop outs you are cutting out a notch for your tubes, all you need to do is put slots to insert into the pipe with a center portion to help hold the pipe in place. Hope this helps. Have fun, Dave

PS: This is the only bike I ever made, no bent pipe, LOL. I gave it to the kid riding it, he rides it to work every day.
 

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Beautiful work (as always). When they build batteries that can get me 33 miles at speed (or if I move closer to town), this will be an important reference work.

Available now buddy looking around 400-500 checkout Headway cells 3.2v 10ah for 17 bucks direct Lifep04 (tech also need a BMS with them)...a decent setup for electric is well over 1000 bucks (NOT including bike) that's not too say you cant do it for half that but you get what you pay for if you do it half assed on the cheap its liable to put you off when it doesnt perform as expected. So yeah the techs there if you have the $$$ to pay for it which is a d a m n shame IMO it puts alot off i know. We have members on ES with bikes of upto 200km range on a charge no pedalling. For the average Joe its just makes better economical sense to pay 250 bucks for s 49cc motor strap it on a wallmart bike top it off with 2 bucks of gas, yes im afraid the electric is priced out makes it a hard sell to all but the oober green environmentalists, the super anal about noise and those like me looking for superior performance.. if your after the thrills of speed you wont get a 49cc anywhere close to the performance (acceleration and top speed) of a top notch electric ;-) ...cheers for the positive feedback much appreciated :)

Egor...yeah i was going to simply slot them the trike dropouts were done that way, i chopped the bulk out this time merely as a weight saving issue its 5mm plate the rectangular chunks arent much but hey every lil bit helps right ;-)

I'll give you a lil tip with these benders i only just picked up for this build off RatRod bikes...unfortunately to say these benders on light tube dont go so well, they bend it no probs there but they leave lil indents on the tubing both from the under side curved die and the two rollers. What i saw a fella do which is so simple its silly but it works...wrap a piece of rag half a dozen or so times around the rollers and no more marks on the top of the tube. As usual mark 20mm increments on your pipe and a centre mark on the curved die take the slack up and when you first feel the pipe under tension start pumping and count each stroke. do this as you work your way along each 20mm increment, you will come up with a nice bend that way. I use slightly heavier pipe than bicycle tubing, i feel all but the high end production stuff on the market is too light for motored bikes that are able to go at 40 plus MPH so I like to ramp the strength up a notch. If you find the bike tube creasing you can compact sand into the tube, if you do it has to be really tightly packed in and the ends of the tubing sealed. Building a custom frame is awesome though you get free range to make what ever you like and to be totally honest it really aint that difficult or expensive this frames cost me 45 bucks in tubing and 25 for a spool of welding wire :-S

Best of luck anywayz shall keep an eye out for your build :)

KiM
 
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Apparently all of a sudden, well... since augidog had a
little cry to the admins my language isn't acceptable anymore on
Motoredbikes.com never been a problem until now nobodies said anything
before i have cussed on occasion throughout my worklogs which
i have now suggested be removed as they too are littered with
'cuss' words, you can thank auidog for the disappearance of
any of the logs. ...anyone wants to continue viewing my
work can do so at Endless Sphere aor the 3
other forums that my work is displayed on that cater for adult
language. ...thanks to those that have supported the build


KiM
 
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you do fine work kim !!!
shame the dog chased you away :(:(:(
you are not the only one :(
I will try to keep up on endless sphere :cool:
 
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