415H O-ring Chain

I've already put an order in for a 415H o-ring chain - that's the easy bit, as i've found a manufacturer.

Trying to find a 410H o-ring chain will be diabolically difficult but i'm sure it would exist especially when you are dealing with the chemical industry.

In that application, and in certain environments sealed chains would be a mandatory requirement.

Ok, how do i go about finding an application where a 410H sealed chain would be part of the mechanical specification in a highly oxidizing and abrasive environment?
I'll need a bit of time to track that one down.

Fabian
 
The "O" ring chain, from an efficiency standpoint, may be the worst choise of available chains. I'm thinking our minimal torque out-put would demand a chain that had the least friction [and resulting parasitic loss] in operation. Clearly, "O" ring has the most. Is the expected extended chain life worth the added drag? Extended chain life does not mean extended sprocket life. Rule of thumb is that two chain replacements and you'll need sprocket replacement [on the open chain type drive we are talking about]. When I got my engine and looked at the kit I was surprised that such a large chain was being supplied. My background in power transmission said it looked like over-kill. Go karts used a #35 chain which has much smaller in sidebars, rollers and pins but is unquestionably "strong" enough. In the 60s and 70s millions of mini bikes with 3-1/2 to 5 hp motors were made that had #35 chain. Many had lights and were licensed for the street.
 
Oldsalt, i have to agree with you point of notice.

I agree that an o-ring chain has more parasitic loss than a conventional chain.
We are also in agreement that longer chain life does not mean longer sprocket life.

The only reason i want an o-ring system is to stop abrasive material being washed into the pin area when lubricating the chain.
If the chain stretches easily through foreign material wearing away the pins, sprockets will not be able to maintain their profile.
Maybe i'm wrong here, but i just want the user friendliness of a set and forget chain system, even if sacrificing a little power to the back wheel.

Fabian
 
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Fabian
If you go to the ReynoldJeffery web site you can download a pdf file of available chain sizes.
 
Oldsalt, i have to agree with you point of notice.

I agree that an o-ring chain has more parasitic loss than a conventional chain.
We are also in agreement that longer chain life does not mean longer sprocket life.

The only reason i want an o-ring system is to stop abrasive material being washed into the pin area when lubricating the chain.
If the chain stretches easily through foreign material wearing away the pins, sprockets will not be able to maintain their profile.
Maybe i'm wrong here, but i just want the user friendliness of a set and forget chain system, even if sacrificing a little power to the back wheel.

Fabian

You're right, I didn't consider that if the pitch of the chain changes due to accelerated wear the sprocket life will also be accelerated.
 
I just replaced the chineese chain that came with my motor.
I was shocket to find out what i did.
My original rear sprocket was attached to my wheel with the rubber std mount.
I bought a new rear wheel with disk brake hub and mounted a new sprocket to the hub.
Obviously i had to make an adapter.
After all that i put the original chain back on.
The bike was funny and i noticed the chain tension going from very tight to very loose with a turn of a few teeth.
So i bough a new chain.
with the old chain It was acting like the sprocket wasnt cantered on the wheel.
Here the old chain streched to match the wobble i had in the original sprocket.
Also when i went to measure the chains up the old chain ended up being allmost 1 link longer than the new chan even though they both had the same number of links.
Wow it stretched alot.

Now my new chain is nickel BMX chain.

It is way too tight.

I'm gonna have to modify me rear motor mount to loosen it up some.:confused:
 
i have had a lot of issues with chains on my 4 stroke i snaped about 2 of them the pins give way. soundsl like a gun shoot when they go and there always streching i have seen the tight lose issue also in the past. also i have a cut out in the fender so the chain can pass,, and in the rain the water will drip right on the chain with all the road grit goin into my chain... so i see now what i need to do to keep a chain longer on the bike
i use a wax type lube also cas it doesn't get my pants greasy if i touch up on it .... i know with a lubed chain its about 1-2 mph faster iam at the point now where i carry a extra ht chain with me but i sure would pay $100 for a good chain and i didnt have to keep playin with the chain tighter and getin new chains

let me know guys when you get a link to get a roller chain im sold 415
 
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