5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
The BMP friction drive was $100 cheaper than another vendor. I also saved another $90 on shipping.
BMP had only 1", 1.25" and 1.5" rollers. Staton had .875", 1", 1.125", 1.25", 1.375" and 1.5" quality rollers. So I installed Staton friction spindles for more versatility.
All worked well with 1.25" and 1.375" Staton rollers and 5hp GP460 engine on the BMP kit. When I swapped to a 2.2hp Mitsubishi engine and a different bike with the BMP kit and Staton rollers, I broke two rollers in less than a month.
By the way, since the rear disc brake was in the way, I just installed the right-side rear mounting strut. The strut was a modified old-style Staton rear mounting strut.
Also experiencing clutch drum bottoming out on the engine block AND the clutch nose. I'm using three mounting bolts. If I tighten the fourth mounting bolt, the engine's crank locks up.
Maybe it's a manufacturing defect, maybe the engine block is the problem. I had the same interference/scraping problem when this engine was mounting on the Staton friction drive.
The interference problem would probably be solved if I lengthened the Staton clutch drum spacer maybe .125".
Any suggestions how to stop the roller from breaking at the clutch drum, AND solving the engine interference problem?
BMP had only 1", 1.25" and 1.5" rollers. Staton had .875", 1", 1.125", 1.25", 1.375" and 1.5" quality rollers. So I installed Staton friction spindles for more versatility.
All worked well with 1.25" and 1.375" Staton rollers and 5hp GP460 engine on the BMP kit. When I swapped to a 2.2hp Mitsubishi engine and a different bike with the BMP kit and Staton rollers, I broke two rollers in less than a month.
By the way, since the rear disc brake was in the way, I just installed the right-side rear mounting strut. The strut was a modified old-style Staton rear mounting strut.
Also experiencing clutch drum bottoming out on the engine block AND the clutch nose. I'm using three mounting bolts. If I tighten the fourth mounting bolt, the engine's crank locks up.
Maybe it's a manufacturing defect, maybe the engine block is the problem. I had the same interference/scraping problem when this engine was mounting on the Staton friction drive.
The interference problem would probably be solved if I lengthened the Staton clutch drum spacer maybe .125".
Any suggestions how to stop the roller from breaking at the clutch drum, AND solving the engine interference problem?