Robin eho35? Honda gx35?

[Bible Man 20]

ok well i have narrowed it down based on my findings and suggestions that I have gotten that the best 4-strokes in my price range ($300.00 max for everything i need) are the Robin eho35 and the Honda gx35.Here are what I've found out about both.

Robin:

price-$160.00 with clutch but no tank and I would still need suggestions on how to attach it and how much extra parts would be.

Honda:

price-$220.00 with clutch and tank.I would also need suggestions on how to attach it and how much extra parts would be.I was instructed that this motor was slightly better, but i like how cheap the Robin appears at first, although i dont know what the end prices would be with all the things i need to attach the engine to my bike...

If you could post any input at all and how you came to know these experiences you are relating, it would be greatly appreciated.Also, if you could give me links to the extra things i will need to be able to completely assemble it onto my bike, that would be great.

 

[Happy Valley]

You'll probably have to stretch that $300 budget a little, not much though, to get quality unless you go to the used market. Do you have a bike and drive components?

That there are some close-out engines available then go for that but I would recommend the factory tank over the other choices and that'll run $30 plus shipping.

Regular retail availability for both engines with factory fuel tanks falls within a few dollars of each other. Folks recommend what they purchased kinda like the old Ford vs. Chevy debate. Either one: Honda or Subaru will serve very well for assisting a bicycle along but do remember these are 7/8 lb. weedwhacker engines and not overly sophisticated motor vehicles.

 

[Member 5549]

What kind of drive

Are you looking at ???
Friction
Belt
Chain... etc...

 

[ocscully]

You are talking about putting together a compleatly custom one off install kit for under $150.00. You need to spend some time looking over the parts available from vendors like http://www.bicycle-engines.com , http://www.thatsdax.com , http://www.staton-inc.com Start at bicycle-engines.com and look thru their install kit for the Honda GXH50 motor to see all of the various parts you will need to install a 4-stroke motor into the frame of a bicycle. Then start pricing out the various parts from the vendors listed above. Bicycle-engines primary reduction gearbox will not fit the motors you are considering so you will need to look else where for this item. You will probably find somthing similar to sub for this item at vendors that sell parts to Pocket bike riders/racers that will fit the motors you are considering. Are you a good fabricator? are you good at problem solving when it comes to things mechanical? What you are trying to accomplish happens with alot of trial and error. Do a search here for threads started by member DetonatorTuning and read thru one of his custom builds to get a feel for just what all is involved in building a custom drivtrain. Here is a link to one of his builds, http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=17961

ocscully

 

[motorbikemike45]

Both are good engines. staton-inc.com sells both, with or without the stock tank and offers a couple of bigger auxillary tanks. The least expensive drive systems are friction drive and frame mounts for the HT engines. If you decide on a frame mount you will need a way to gear down the engine rpm to a sprocket or pully on the wheel and a pedal set wide enough to clear the engine/gearbox. A total ratio reduction (including the drive sprocket) of about 17-20 to 1 is about right. I don't know your location, buti n almost all places where motored bikes are legal you must retain the ability to also pedal the bike. My first setup was friction drive. It is the simplest system as the gear reduction is the drive roller size to tire size ratio.

 

[Bible Man 20]

Both are good engines. staton-inc.com sells both, with or without the stock tank and offers a couple of bigger auxillary tanks. The least expensive drive systems are friction drive and frame mounts for the HT engines. If you decide on a frame mount you will need a way to gear down the engine rpm to a sprocket or pully on the wheel and a pedal set wide enough to clear the engine/gearbox. A total ratio reduction (including the drive sprocket) of about 17-20 to 1 is about right. I don't know your location, buti n almost all places where motored bikes are legal you must retain the ability to also pedal the bike. My first setup was friction drive. It is the simplest system as the gear reduction is the drive roller size to tire size ratio.

it doesnt seem like friction drives are very dependable and they would wear down your tires fast.also you couldnt run into a puddle.is this true?

 

[Turtle Tedd]

...Time to make a desision...cough up some more cash or order a HT kit...simple

 

[fetor56]

...Time to make a desision...cough up some more cash or order a HT kit...simple

That's about the size of it(or go 2nd hand)

 

[motorbikemike45]

Friction drive is VERY dependable, probably the MOST dependable drive there is. No chain wear, adjustments, tensioner problems, belt wear-breakage, etc. Simple, cheap, basic, and reliable are what friction drive is all about. Yes, running through water is a problem, the answer is to pedal assist the engine and to learn to "feather" the throttle lightly. Yes, friction drive wears rear tires faster than other drive systems, but the cost of bike tires is faily low and wearing out a tire a year instead of every 3 years isn't exactly catastrophic. Wear isn't a serious problem if the drive roller is precisely perpendicular to the tire. I just bought a new tire for my friction bike for next year, $14.00. Meh.

 

[Bible Man 20]

Friction drive is VERY dependable, probably the MOST dependable drive there is. No chain wear, adjustments, tensioner problems, belt wear-breakage, etc. Simple, cheap, basic, and reliable are what friction drive is all about. Yes, running through water is a problem, the answer is to pedal assist the engine and to learn to "feather" the throttle lightly. Yes, friction drive wears rear tires faster than other drive systems, but the cost of bike tires is faily low and wearing out a tire a year instead of every 3 years isn't exactly catastrophic. Wear isn't a serious problem if the drive roller is precisely perpendicular to the tire. I just bought a new tire for my friction bike for next year, $14.00. Meh.

o alright, thanks for that great info!after i get done with my wheelchair il buy the stuff i need.