Exhaust Exhaust Pipe problems

[Canon]

I was tightening a loose nut on one of the two engine bolts that holds down the exhaust pipe when one sheared off because I tightened it too much. Any ideas on what to do? I have a feeling that removing the exhaust pipe completely is a bad idea hence the existence of the exhaust pipe, but I dont know what else to do.

 

[cabinfever1977]

You will need to buy a bolt extractor to extract the sheared bolt and then u will have to replace the bolt.

 

[AussieSteve]

As CabinFever1977 said, buy a set of bolt extractors, 'Ezy-Out' or similar. They have a tapered shaft made of hardened steel, with a LHS, (reverse) thread and a sever pitch.
The idea is to drill a hole down the centre of the broken bolt, (to the size recommended for that size ezy-out), then screw the ezy-out anticlockwise until it bites and then you can unscrew the broken stud to replace it.
Good luck.

... Steve

 

[mattman]

Running the engine without the exhaust hooked up will burn it up eventually.

A few tips if you decide to use an ez-out/screw extractor:

They are usually considered a 'last- ditch' effort. Try other ways to extract the bolt first.

Drill the pilot hole perfectly straight. Ding the center of the bolt with a punch to keep the bit from walking, Start with a small bit and go larger.

Ez-outs and screw extractors are notoriously brittle. Very hard metal, like carbide and nearly impossible to drill out. You don't want to break one off.

Heating/cooling cycles have probably frozen the stud in tight, so you will probably have to heat the area around the threads to loosen it up some.

That's all i got, sorry to hear that happened. Good Luck!

 

[AussieSteve]

Generally, there's no drama removing these studs if you take it easy. No need for a torch - they (usually) don't bind very hard.
As mattman said, if there's any stud protruding, try other methods first.
Otherwise, drill the hole and try the ezy-out, but not with excessive pressure. Be sensible and you won't break the ezy-out.
My bet is that it will come straight out.
Then, if that fails, use heat. (To remove a very tight end cap on my bottom bracket without damaging the paint, I found that a hair dryer can do the job. I was at my wits end after 2 days but didn't want to re-paint. Worked like a charm.) Worth a shot if you're stuck and don't have a torch.

... Steve

 

[Al.Fisherman]

If drilling is needed, consider the first hole small and the second use a left hand drill bit.

Steve...Question? In the land downunder is the term normally "anticlockwise" or counter clockwise, used....just wondering?

 

[AussieSteve]

Hi Ron.
Are left-hand drill bits very common? I've never seen one.

I think it's about 50/50 between anti- and counter-
Depends on which school you went to.

... Steve

 

[Pablo]

I second the left hand drill bit - most all well stocked tool places have them. I do believe even Sears has them. Sometimes they are in a kit with various sizes and some lousy extractors. I can't imagine the stud being all that tight in the hole though.

 

[AussieSteve]

We live and learn. A number of times, (not on these engines), with a RH drill bit I've made things worse while drilling by screwing the stud further in.

P.S. Paul, the shift kit is great. Had a few rides now. Just need to get my engine running better, then play with gearings. Even as it is, though, I couldn't imagine going back to no gears. Today I almost idled down the road at my old top speed. And in my gravel driveway, I won't be falling off any more from too tall a gearing.
I'll write more in a few days, after tuning and more testing.

... Steve

 

[Al.Fisherman]

Steve, although common you need to ask for them. Along with tool suppliers that carry them you can get them on E-Bay. I'd venture to say that when a bolt breaks in these engines that didn't have lock tite on it the LHD will thread most of them out.

http://shop.ebay.com/items/left hand drill bits?_dmd=1&_sop=12