First Build! Would love some help!

ParadoX

New Member
Local time
8:03 PM
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
29
Hi, So this i my first build. Im uing a micargi stealth and a skyhawk engine. I first came into trouble with the engine mount because of the larger frame. After drilling the frame, that problem was reolved.

Now Im attempting to mount the rear sprocket on the back coaster wheel and Im having some difficulty interpretting the instructions.

The size of the sprocket seem to fit exactly over the hub, so look like I lucked out there. However, I am usnure if I need to use both rubber spacers or not.

If I try to put sprocket-->rubber-->spoke-->rubber-->metal, it seems that it pushes the sprocket so far out that it does not cover the hub.

It is vague in the instructions if I can just not have the first rubber piece by putting it sprocket-->spokes-->rubber--metal. I this appropriate or ok?

Also, why are there 2 set of metal circle set? The circle set that i made of 2 halves or 3 thirds?

Thank for any help you can offer!
 
Last edited:
Well, I've done the single rubber gromet before, but I would not advise it. The Idea is to sandwich your spokes between the 2 rubber pieces to prevent the sprocket twisting, and your bolts from hitting the spokes. The gromets will compress a bit when you tighten on the hub kit, so give it a try with both.

If the sprocket still sits out too far, I would try trimming the rubber gromets. I would only go to one gromet as a last resort, and not as a permanent solution. It will increase the likelyhood of you breaking spokes. One last solution is to try flipping your sprocket over. If your sprocket has offset teeth, try facing it so that the teeth offset to the inside, toward your spokes.

If you don't already have a 12 gauge rear wheel I would suggest you get one to replace your standard rear wheel ASAP. You'll have to anyway when you start breaking spokes, which wont take long if you're a big guy like me. Just make sure of the size and depth of the hub before you buy or be prepared to modify your sprocket.

Well, that's all I've got. Good luck with it.
 
Thanks greatly for tip.

Any ideas on why Im supplies with 2 set of metal rings? one that is 2 pieces and the other is 3?
 
Hi, So this i my first build. Im uing a micargi stealth and a skyhawk engine. I first came into trouble with the engine mount because of the larger frame. After drilling the frame, that problem was reolved.

Now Im attempting to mount the rear sprocket on the back coaster wheel and Im having some difficulty interpretting the instructions.

The size of the sprocket seem to fit exactly over the hub, so look like I lucked out there. However, I am usnure if I need to use both rubber spacers or not.

If I try to put sprocket-->rubber-->spoke-->rubber-->metal, it seems that it pushes the sprocket so far out that it does not cover the hub.

It is vague in the instructions if I can just not have the first rubber piece by putting it sprocket-->spokes-->rubber--metal. I this appropriate or ok?

Also, why are there 2 set of metal circle set? The circle set that i made of 2 halves or 3 thirds?

Thank for any help you can offer!

hi
try eziridecycles.com.au
they have a good install intrustion with pics .
as for the metal bits that for diff type of wheels
if u want to strenthen ur wheel cable tie ur spokes together where they cross together in pairs .

brad sydney oz :helmet:
 
the 2 half pieces are used as a locking ring around the other 3 pieces u used to mount the sprocket. Not needed but a good safety idea.
 
Thanks for the responses. Jut broke one of the bolts during tightening. Doh! Off to the hardware store for the 2nd time today hah.
 
well, against what everyone is saying here, i have my sprocket mounted: sprocket-spokes-rubber (on the inside) and the retaining ring. i am only using one of the rubber grommets and i have about 200 miles on my bike now with no problems. I am running a 20" frame with 20" spoked wheels, and my spokes do not cross each other (they are laced straight).
i had the same problem as you did...the sprocket sticking out too far with both rubber grommets sandwiched in there (one on the inside, one on the outside). i did try to trim one of the grommets...good luck with that because that stuff is tough. It's got nylon cords in it like a car tire. if you try to trim it to make it thinner, you will never get it straight and it will take a lot of effort.
yes, you should definitly replace all of the nuts, bolts and washers with some better quality ones than the ones that come with the kit. use blue loc-tite on them as well, and you'll be fine.
I can not say that using only one of the grommets is a good idea, but it works for me, and i have had no problems. i had to put my sprocket on with the teeth "out" rather than "in" because my chain would hit the tire and with the teeth in, my chain would not run true with the engine sprocket.
 
Not sure if I am overtightening, but its getting close to fitting onto the hub all the way. Its sticking out about 1 mm until I busted the bolt.

I love how all these kits are sold stating that only a few hours is required to put thee thing on.
 
a few hours to get the sprocket on is more like it.
the center hole in my sprocket does fit down over the little lip on the hub, but i had to modify the dust cover for it to fit the hole in the sprocket.
none of these kits are truly "bolt on and go"...they all require slight modifications / problem solving to get them together.

another tip would be with your wiring. cut off the cheap connectors that are on the ends of the wires, solder the wires together, and then cover them with heat shrink. you'll be glad you did because those cheap connectors will vibrate apart and /or break after awhile.
 
Back
Top