Lubing A 3-Speed Hub

5

5-7HEAVEN

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Hi. I bought a 1976 Huffy bike with 3-speed hub for $35 on craigslist. The main reason I got it was for the Bike Bug engine mounted on it, but that's not my point.

After finding absolutely no grease in the bottom bracket, I realize I also need to lube the steering tube AND 3-speed hub.

How hard is it to service or lube the hub? I dropped the wheels off at the bike shop on Monday to change all spokes and service the hub. Since they're dragging tail, I'll just do it myself.

I have no idea if the 3-speed hub works. I just paid the previous owner, threw the bike in the van and drove off before the other prospective buyers started a bidding war.
 
Quote from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html :

Modern bikes use grease for lubrication. This is good, because grease lasts a long time, but it is bad because grease can usually only be renewed by dis-assembling the parts involved. Older 3-speeds were intended for oil lubrication. A bike meant for oil lubrication will have an oil hole in the front hub, covered by a spring clip around the middle of the hub barrel. The bottom bracket will also often have an oil cap. Bikes so equipped should be oiled regularly with a moderately heavy oil, such as Phil Wood, or automotive motor oil. Don't use too much, or you will make a mess, and don't use thin oils or sprays because they don't last long enough.

3-speed hubs always need oil lubrication. The sound of the ticking pawls is a good indicator of the state of lubrication of the hub. If the pawls have a loud, bright tick, the hub may be dry or may have been oiled with too light an oil. A very dull, quiet tick may indicate a hub that has become gunked up with old, dried-up oil. In extreme cases, a hub that has sat unused for a long period of time may get its freewheel pawls stuck, so that it freewheels forward, particularly in low gear. This can often be corrected by lubricating with a fairly light oil and letting it work in.

A drop or two of oil on the moving parts of the 3-speed trigger should also be part of regular maintenance.



.....My 3 speed has no "oil cap", to lubricate it I simply take out the "shifting rod", lean the bike on its side and dump oil in the hole so that it runs into the hub, then I put the shifting rod back in. Works for me.
 
Quote from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html :

Modern bikes use grease for lubrication. This is good, because grease lasts a long time, but it is bad because grease can usually only be renewed by dis-assembling the parts involved. Older 3-speeds were intended for oil lubrication. A bike meant for oil lubrication will have an oil hole in the front hub, covered by a spring clip around the middle of the hub barrel. The bottom bracket will also often have an oil cap. Bikes so equipped should be oiled regularly with a moderately heavy oil, such as Phil Wood, or automotive motor oil. Don't use too much, or you will make a mess, and don't use thin oils or sprays because they don't last long enough.

3-speed hubs always need oil lubrication. The sound of the ticking pawls is a good indicator of the state of lubrication of the hub. If the pawls have a loud, bright tick, the hub may be dry or may have been oiled with too light an oil. A very dull, quiet tick may indicate a hub that has become gunked up with old, dried-up oil. In extreme cases, a hub that has sat unused for a long period of time may get its freewheel pawls stuck, so that it freewheels forward, particularly in low gear. This can often be corrected by lubricating with a fairly light oil and letting it work in.

A drop or two of oil on the moving parts of the 3-speed trigger should also be part of regular maintenance.



.....My 3 speed has no "oil cap", to lubricate it I simply take out the "shifting rod", lean the bike on its side and dump oil in the hole so that it runs into the hub, then I put the shifting rod back in. Works for me.

Better way of saying what I was thinking! Good post! :cool::D
 
Another thing,, 3 speeds will get a little " gunked up " after sitting, & not shift correctly. Before doing anything drastic, like disassembling , squirt a good shot of WD-40 in the oil hole & ride it for awhile. Many times this will " free " things up, & it will shift fine. Then add oil. Make sure to have shifter cable adjusted correctly BEFORE standing up & pedalling. That top bar can be hard on the " codjewadjees !"

Once you get that old motor running well & get used to it, you will like it !!
 
This is good to know. I just bought a virtually unridden Huff for $15 from an
old couple that got it for their grandchild to ride on visits. I just now greased
the front bearings which were bone dry. ......Ha! Just pulled the shift rod. It
was drippin' nearly clear oil. Not bad for a bike that's been sitting in a garage
since 1988. I'm good to go and installing a fric-drive.

thx Esteban
 
Wow!
By way of a post script, after waxing the chain a lubin' the
headset & BB. I took that old huffer out for a spin before
mounting the engine.(also ditched the fenders). It looks
and rides like a brand new bike, not a scratch on the paint.
There was touch of surface rust on the rims that came right
of with a dry kitchen scrubby. The low gear is low enuff for
almost anything but a long climb over a mtn. pass. and the
high is way higher than that of my vintage MB. Pedalling
is fun again, no more hassling my way thru 18 spds., just
click, click, click!:D
 
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