Chain Tensioner Opinions on Modifying the Stock Tensioner, V-Frame Engines

[a/c man]

Here's the way I did mine before the shift kit made it unnecessary.
Flat 1 1/2" bar stock from home depot $6.50 for a 3 ft piece
Took a good quality skate board wheel (my son has plenty)
These wheels have really nice sealed bearings (2 sets in each wheel)
Chucked it up in the Dewalt drill using a mandrel designed to use those
cutting wheel attachments for electric drills.
Clamped the drill to the work bench and held a 5/8" wide file against the roller wheel until it cut a channel in the wheel about 1/2" deep .
I mounted the flat bar to the chainstay and seatstay using the original U shaped clamps that came with the stock tensioner. I cut the adjusting groove in the bar using a series of adjacent drilled holes, then filed out the spaces between the holes to make a slotted hole for the wheel to bolt thru.
It worked really well and I used it for over 350 miles before I didn't need it anymore. Ditch the stock junk chain and get a good #41 chain that won't stretch and self-destruct.

 

[GearNut]

The freewheel is for the engine chain. It does makes it pretty hard to pedal start the engine so they also offer a solid mount, at least they used to. It has been a loooong time since I have looked around at what all they sell nowadays.

The only experience I can share it what others have said.
Some love it, others break it.
I do want to run the Bicycle engines hub in the future.

 

[Email]

...before the shift kit made it unnecessary.

Because I currently have a single speed (and might go to an internal 3+ speed hub), do you think a shift kit would be a workable solution or do you think the engine would have too much torque for an internally geared hub?

Secondly if I keep it a single speed, do you think a shift kit would be a waste of not just $$$ but capability?

Ok further reading tells me I will probably be going with the following...
1) SBP Deluxe Shift Kit ($250)
2) X-RD8 : 8 Speed Rear Hub, 70mm Drum (~$170) with Shifter, Cables, Etc. (325% range of gearing, should probably go with a hill climbing SBP setup vs speed) - IF IT FITS IN DROPOUTS
3) X-FDD : Front Drum Dyno (~$80)
+ other bits and pieces...

 

[a/c man]

Why would you consider buying a shift kit if you have a single speed hub?
I don't know much about the internal hub's feasibility, but I know getting a Mega range freewheel would delight your bike riding senses.
Seven speeds will take you wherever you'll want to go. From a dead stop without peddling to 40 mph and scare the **** out of you.
Trust me it's like getting the Christmas present you always wanted

 

[Tinsmith]

Tensioner Fix

I never used the stock chain. Got #41 chain and mounted a sprocket instead of the roller on a spring-loaded tenisioner from Tractor Supply, and mounted it on the seatpost downtube so it couldn't get into the spokes if it moved. Been riding it for over a year and haven't made any adjustments. I did add another helper spring so it stays pretty tight, but it gives when it has to. Hope this might help. Dan

 

[Email]

Current Hub is a CB-E110 is a 109mm hub. No go on the 8 speed hub, too big. Also 1" seat tubing means SBP Shift kit won't work without shimming (smallest is 1.125", unless Ghost0 would make one smaller).

I should be able to squeeze a S-RF5 hub (111mm) into the rear bracket (freewheels, no brake)... but seems that's going to be a hard one to find.

 

[GearNut]

I have never heard of a multi speed rear hub lasting. They all blow up. They cannot handle the torque load that an engine places on them.
The only exception is a Nu-Vinci hub, which are pretty expensive. They do not have any gears inside them to blow up. The only draw back to them that I know of is they are 90% efficient. You loose 10% of input to internal slippage. So far all the reports I have heard from folks that run them is that they do not notice any slippage at all, but compared to a multi-speed sprocket setup, you will notice a tiny reduction in gas mileage.
I have heard of only one person that burned up a Nu-Vinci, and he was pushing 5 HP through it. They obviously have their limits.
http://www.fallbrooktech.com/NuVinci.asp
And video of how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVPjhmTThPo
Here's a link to Sheldon Brown's site concerning it too:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/nuvinci.html
Staton-Inc. sells Nu-Vinci kits:
http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3219

I want one some year.......

 

[Email]

Thanks Gearnut, that's what I wanted to hear (I vaugly remembered some threads about internals not holding up, but that has been years ago and could not dig up any posts via search). I think with the limited overnut space, this bike just is not up to snuff for what I want to eventually do down the road. It is however, the only one I have that I am willing to put an engine kit on so I am going to stick with what I had originally planned for it. Add a front drum brake (keep it simple & cheap), and replace/fix the rear wheel, and do the tensioner mod with the metal bar from the bottom of the rear dropout to the top of the rear dropout. I will see if I can find a rollerskate wheel cheap at a thrift store this weekend. Thanks again guys, I appreciate the input.

I will keep the thoughts of the NuVinci, SBP Shift Kit, etc. all in mind if I come across any other bikes that look viable to mod.
...
Possibly one in the shed - CyclePro Pocono, ugly blue paint though. 132mm measured b/w the dropouts, V-Grip Brakes, 1.130in seat tube. Shimano SIS. It was one someone had tossed to the road for garbage to pickup. Sure is a cheap looking bike, made in Taiwan.