carburator choke issues helllppppppp !!!!!!

jasonpadilla

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May 16, 2010
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orange county ca
goa a question, when i ride my skyhawk 66cc i have to open up the choke a little or bike bogs and is slow to rev y do i have to open up the choke? what should i do so i can leave choke off after warmed up? any help would b appreciated thank you..
 
I think you mean your "closing" the choke which one normally does when starting a cold engine, once mine starts I open the choke. If you need to keep it in the closed position in order for it to run you might have an air leak in the intake, (carb, intake tube) make sure none of these have come loose..
 
thanks butch for responding, i just noticed that on my exhaust the bolt on the bottom was loose so i tightened that up. and i checked my carb and it was all tight ill check the rest of the motor, by intake tube is that the 1 that connects the cylinder to the carb? those 2 bolts that bolt to the cylinderis that what you mean? also i read on spookytooth you can drill a hole in the exhaust for better performance, where do i drill the hole? maybe right next to the bolt on the bottom? what about just taking out the bolt that i tightened? or is that holding something together? thanks butch be safe and have fun, hope to hear back from you, i live in orange county ca u?? i looked at ur profile no pics of ur ride??
 
thanks butch for responding, i just noticed that on my exhaust the bolt on the bottom was loose so i tightened that up. and i checked my carb and it was all tight ill check the rest of the motor, by intake tube is that the 1 that connects the cylinder to the carb? those 2 bolts that bolt to the cylinderis that what you mean? also i read on spookytooth you can drill a hole in the exhaust for better performance, where do i drill the hole? maybe right next to the bolt on the bottom? what about just taking out the bolt that i tightened? or is that holding something together? thanks butch be safe and have fun, hope to hear back from you, i live in orange county ca u?? i looked at ur profile no pics of ur ride??

Just finished it yesterday, rode it for the first time today, got a flat tire!!. Yes the intake tube is the one the carb is on and yes I suggested you check the bolts that connect it to the cylinder to make sure they are tight. If you have an air leak that lets additional air into the engine that would lean out the mix and forcing you to use the choke to keep it running. I would not recommend that you do any mods to your engine until you get it running correctly, might might make the source of your problems harder to find. I live in FL, which is really flat (no hills at all) which makes it perfect for riding..
 
Tight bolts do not guarantee no leaks, they just guarantee parts will not fall off.
You may need to put a very thin coating of RTV black silicone on both sides of the intake to cylinder gasket, and do the same where the carburetor attaches to the intake manifold (intake tube). Assemble the parts quickly before the silicone starts to dry, and after assembly, let the silicone dry at least overnight before trying to start the engine.
I agree with butch100, do not try to modify any parts on the engine, exhaust or otherwise until you can at least get the engine running properly.
Modifying parts can make an engine run weird or badly and putting that on top of a already bad running engine will make things all the worse for you.
 
Do what GearNut says with the RTV. I also went to the hardware store and got a o-ring that would fit in the intake tube and slid the carb up to it and tightened things. It can leak around that area. Some of the guys use RTV there also, but I liked the o-ring idea and it worked for me. Good Luck, Dan Thomas
 
Thanks a lot tin man; I appreciate the help ill figure out how I can silicone the carb to to the manifold you guys take care and thanks again for ur time and knowledge
 
Remove the carburetor from the manifold, put a thin skin of silicone on the manifold only where the carburetor sits.
Also using your pinky or a q-tip. put a thin skin of silicone inside the carburetor spigot, the clamping area that holds it onto the manifold, and re-assemble the carburetor to the manifold before the silicone has a chance to set up. You have about 10 minutes to do all of it after you first start to spread the silicone on the first part.
 
Most forms of RTV silicon aren't suitable for use around fuel.
I used to use non-hardening Permatex to achieve the same result.

The most likely place for the leak is where the carb joins to the inlet tube.

The 'O' ring method described by Tinsmith is reported to work OK, but I went one further and bought a cast alloy inlet tube, then filed a groove 1mm from the end for an 'O' ring. It's worth the effort.

If you're interested in this method, there's more info in 'NT carby/inlet leaks - a reliable solution'

Incidentally, you are aware that the choke is 'off' or open when the lever is down and 'on' or closed when it's up?
 
Black RTV has held up remarkably well for me on many carburetor related repairs.
There cannot be any oily residue on the surfaces for a tight bond to happen, though that goes for any silicone related task.
If allowed to cure before coming into contact with gasoline, it holds up very well.
The other colors, red, blue, clear, and white (white: bath, tub and tile) do not seem to work as well. Red is a close second though.
 
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