engine won't start, clutch is engaged but wheel spins

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I just figured out what the balls were for. Is there a way to replace those between the clutch gear and clutch hub?

I've also learned that I need to apply grease to the gears in the trasmission, and maybe to the ball bearing behind bucking bar. Do you think this is all that needs to be done?
 
Looking at your engine there would be no doubt to me...I would do a complete tear down (that's even if you can do it), and get everything cleaned and lubed. Quite honestly, if you fix your problem and get it started, I don't know how much I'd trust it. Not much I know.
 
I'd recommend a pull-down, clean up and a new clutch and possibly primary gear, depending on just how bad it is.

I've never needed to remove or replace those balls, but it looks like the top collar is heated then shrunk into place. (Pic below.)

How did it get so rusty in there? (Laying on it's side in the rain?)

(Note the rust-pitting on mine - that's how it came from the factory.)
 

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How do you disassemble the top collar ring?? to get to the bearings?, Heat and what tool?

I also need to know how to tighten it, I have been through three clutches that get loose and are about to lose the bearings.???
 
skuzzy, I've personally never needed to do it, but you'd need to (quickly) heat the collar, then turn the assembly upside-down and the collar would fall off, with virtually no help.

Re-assembling would be harder. you'd need to use feeler gauges or similar to get the correct clearance, then heat the collar and drop it onto the feeler gauges, or a similar method. It'll cool and contract into place. (Like they used to do with wagon-wheels.)
Not sure what clearance to allow.

If it's any consolation, they all flop around everywhere when the clutch is disengaged.
 
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Thank you Steve, so it doesn't have a thread to unscrew, it just drops with heat, intriguing, looks like it needs to get very hot for the metal to expand?

I think its about a 1mm clearance, tight clutch wheels with minimal noise has a 1mm gap, and you aren't supposed to be able to see the bearings, if you can see it, it is too loose and it will be a screamer. I purchased a grubee engine, the clutch broke from first use..

and I have only had it a few weeks, third clutch now, & a tight engine. Lots of slip, not a tight grab. Lots of pedal pushing on clutch before it starts, but it is completely engaged.

I investigated it and found the shaft spring was damaged, the nuts holding the spring into place had jumped the thread and stuck jammed in. So engaging never happened until I replaced the shaft. Dodgy shaft

Grubee clutches use bigger woodroft keys and the keys were loose. I had to change the whole clutch with one that used smaller keys and a tighter fit. But I still have a slippy clutch. It 'slowly' engages when it should just grab and start.
 
When pushing the ring gear to one side of the clutch hub (radially) I could see the bearings on the 4 different clutches I have serviced. It is how I get the white lithium grease in there to lubricate the tiny ball bearings.
 
By the way, is that engine a Katrina victim? Those transmission gears look like they were in contact with salt water and left to rot. :(
 
When pushing the ring gear to one side of the clutch hub (radially) I could see the bearings on the 4 different clutches I have serviced. It is how I get the white lithium grease in there to lubricate the tiny ball bearings.

:D

Yes ...On my good clutch assembly it is tight and noise free, 1mm is healthy, and you can see a small gap where the bearings are from the side when you push. I have a 2.5 mm gap in one I need to fix, I can see the bearings easy. and has death noise.

Do you squeeze the white lithium grease in with a needle or something?
 
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