Engine won't turn over when pedaling

Gearnut, I followed your adjustment directions. I got it to fire and run, but the clutch still slipped. So much so that I couldn't give it full throttle. About 3/4 of a miles rode at this point. I took the clutch pads out and sprayed cleaner in and got rid of a greasey residue that was in there. I took it back out and it worked great with no slipping for about a 3/4 of a mile, then the clutch went bye-bye. No grip at all. This clutch material IMO is junk! It's way too soft! Is there a better clutch pad out there in the aftermarket?
 
Stop the train!
The friction pads in these cheap engines rarely give anyone fits when the clutch is properly set up.
Ok, the actual clutch spring may be set a little on the soft side. Once again, chalk it up to cheap quality control in China.
Here's how to adjust it:
(Refer to the link to the parts blow up from Bicycle engines . com for identification of parts)
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/2stroke-parts-clutch-assembly-c-4_7.html
1. Remove clutch cable from release arm on the sprocket cover and from the cable stop on top of engine case (#35).
2. Remove the cable stop from the top of the case (#35). Unscrew the lock nut around the bottom of the cable stop first, enough to release it from locking the cable stop from turning. Unscrew the cable stop from the case.
3. Remove the sprocket cover being careful to get the bucking bar and bearing ball if they try to fall out (#25 and #24) ((they call the bucking bar a "cam pin" in this diagram))
4. Insert a medium sized yet strong flat bladed screwdriver down into the hole that the cable stop was screwed into. What you are trying to do is get the blade of the screwdriver down into one of the four slots cut into the outer edge of the threaded clutch spring adjusting nut (#16).
You will have to feel for it when it slips down into one of the slots.
It is not directly underneath the hole but a little closer to the clutch.
5. Once you feel it drop onto a slot, hold the screwdriver there or have an assistant hold it for you.
6. Use a socket on the sprocket nut to turn the nut, sprocket and shaft assembly 1 turn clockwise, the same direction you would turn the nut to tighten it.
1 turn should be plenty but a few are stupid loose from the factory and you may need to tighten it some more. Do not overtighten it because doing so will cause the clutch to not release properly and/ or you risk snapping the pindle (#21)
It is better to sneak up on the correct setting than try to get it done on one operation.
I know it's a PITA but better safe than sorry, eh?
7. Reassemble the whole mess, taking the time to clean everything and put a blob of fresh grease inside the hollow sprocket shaft before reinstalling the bearing ball and bucking bar.

Please ask more questions if any of this seems a bit fuzzy.
 
Gearnut, Hey there, i'm going through the no clutch syndrome too. I searched and read and performed every tip in every thread on here with no luck. Clutch pads removed and re-rounded, took off the ridge worn in to them. Cleaned off all clutch dust and i just tried the above post.The sprocket nut is as tight as can be. As of right now, my bike is a clutchless pedaler, and will stay that way unless some other idea comes up. What a drag............
 
A clutchless pedaler, eh?
I am assuming that your clutch is slipping.
Is this correct?
 
Yessir Gearnut, And after the time i've spent re-tightening and tinkering with this Chi-com wonder, i'm through with it. Thanks anyway. They sure look cool. Good luck-i'm outta here.............................
 
Well if you want help getting to the bottom of the problem, we can work it out.
Sometimes it is best to walk away from it for a while to work out the stresses they can create. Come back anytime. I would be glad to help you.
If you lived near me I would come over and whip into shape for you.
 
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Thank you Gearnut, Your right! I've had to walk away from it. They certainly can create a stressful situation. Lucky for me, i have no place to ride anyway. I'm 7 miles away from where they filmed Deliverance. My neighbors are the extras from the movie, so i take my life in my hands when i hit the highway here.
 
Gearnut, Hey there, i'm going through the no clutch syndrome too. I searched and read and performed every tip in every thread on here with no luck. Clutch pads removed and re-rounded, took off the ridge worn in to them. Cleaned off all clutch dust and i just tried the above post.The sprocket nut is as tight as can be. As of right now, my bike is a clutchless pedaler, and will stay that way unless some other idea comes up. What a drag............


That's the same boat I'm in! My clutch just will not grab!

Gearnut, I too followed the directions you posted and still have no clutch. For sh!ts & grins I even took the internal adjustment all the way in and still nothing. The best I got it to grab got me 20 seconds of use before it completely lost grip again. In my experience of years working on and restoring cars, this clutch problem to me feels like a lack of clutch pressure. If I had this problem with a car clutch, a new pressure plate would be the answer. But, not sure what to think on this little engine since it is brand new. I'm going to see if BGF will at least give me a new set of clutch pads to try.:confused:
 
Hey Chevypower, Hope ya dont mind me calling you that, since i'm a '55 owner and lover,...i would say the same thing. And what tears it, is that today it could be working decent and tomorrow it won't. And reading the past posts, new pads won't cure it, i tightened the flower nut down like you did with no luck and i have backed it out...only thing left is to stretch the spring in there and put more pressure on the works. I'd rather be wrenching on my 235 Blue Flame, or my 196 cu. in. Rambler, or my 1600 VW, or my 4.0 Jeep, or my 85HP jet boat, or my 80 cube HD or just sail away in my electrified sailboat. :)
 
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