DIY Litespeed Obed V-Belt Drive Rack mount

Hi,
I just finished this rear mount project a few days ago. I took the engine off my front rack mount Rocky Mountain RM7 full suspension rig to test out the difference between front & rear drive. This one also uses a Vbelt but with a Whizzer sheave and is geared more for high speed than low end. I pedal along with the motor up till I spin-out @ around 30mph (53/16 gearing & 700c wheel w/175 cranks) and then let the motor take over. So far so good...Lots of fun getting aero and riding this one. My next project will be a Frame mount or Bottom bracket mount to get the weight down low in the frame...I'd say the biggest drawback of both my front & rear engine rack mounts so far is the high weight cg...
-Alex-
 

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I built this one to to test out a few things.
1- Do I like the engine on the rear or front?
2- Does getting aero on a lightweight bike make you faster?
So far I am leaning towards front engine, comfy cruiser, but I'm sure in-frame would be best for weight placement and handling. The Subaru Robin wont fit inside my frame without some ridiculous bottom bracket axle extensions & I like to pedal...I'm probably going to tear it down after a few more rides & switch it back to the Rocky Mountain RM7 'Super Motard' 42 lbs DH MTB. Too bad there isn't a narrow 4-stroke available for bicycle applications???
 
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Today I found a 26" MTB wheel being thrown out & picked it up for a rear wheel swap to change the gearing on this rear drive MB. I had to buy & replace 2 broken spokes, true the wheel & install a solid rear axle. After spending $3.00 & some fine coversation at my local Trek store, I went home to swap the 700c rear drive wheel for the 26". The overall diameter is a 6 cm difference, & enough to make a nicely geared MB that requires less pedal assist & has a better top speed since the engine can pull it. Wife clocked me at 41 mph (gusty wind & didn't get into the aero drops). I may swap the rear rack setup onto the Rocky Mountain RM7 to see how it runs out.
-Alex-
 
Did she ever clock you once you moved it back to the front ? And if so, how did it compare Lowracer ?
 
Today I found a 26" MTB wheel being thrown out & picked it up for a rear wheel swap to change the gearing on this rear drive MB. I had to buy & replace 2 broken spokes, true the wheel & install a solid rear axle. After spending $3.00 & some fine coversation at my local Trek store, I went home to swap the 700c rear drive wheel for the 26". The overall diameter is a 6 cm difference, & enough to make a nicely geared MB that requires less pedal assist & has a better top speed since the engine can pull it. Wife clocked me at 41 mph (gusty wind & didn't get into the aero drops). I may swap the rear rack setup onto the Rocky Mountain RM7 to see how it runs out.
-Alex-

verrah nice frame. Only titanium MB I have ever seen. Hw stable are those wheels on the ground with all that weight? I mean how far over can you bank on a turn? Any difference?
 
I didn't keep this project on the road for more than a week. The frame is too lightweight for an engine & I didnt feel safe with the squirrely handling.
At least this project did make it into the mainstream with a 'Bike Snob' Friday quiz question about this bike setup...lol
-Lowracer-
 
I didn't keep this project on the road for more than a week. The frame is too lightweight for an engine & I didnt feel safe with the squirrely handling.
At least this project did make it into the mainstream with a 'Bike Snob' Friday quiz question about this bike setup...lol
-Lowracer-

Well ur the one who put together a titanium crotch rocket ;)
 
Well, Time to get the clutch for this front engine HF Greyhound Frankenstien. Lowracers experiments and comparasons convinced me to go front engine as unAmerican as it is:giggle: Just to many benefits in my book to engine forward techknowledgy.:unsure: Not even mentioning being two/all wheel drive like a Rokon and feeling/being safer at higher speeds according to Lowracer. .Just no more wheelies, powerslides and jumping about:mad: To old for that Tom Foolery anyway. Thats why my C6-7 vertibrea are no good now:rolleyes: I think Lowracer told me he has had the best luck with Max Torque in 5/8 bore,sheave (pulley) style cen. clutches. Time to go back through old PMs and see the best place to get one. I remember someone saying on the form to order one with the low stall rpm springs in it. They (max torque) will put them in for you. I will have to check that out. Or is that a bad move with the HF Greyhound's power characteristics ? I know it makes for more engine braking (clutch stays engauged longer comeing to a stop) as well as engaugeing sooner on take off. Any ferther suggestions anyone ?
 
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I went with the stock Max Torque V Belt pulley clutch & it seems to fit the power characteristics of my lifan 98cc engine well. I do pedal to get going to put less stress on the fork/pulley sheave. I guess thats the beauty of having a hybrid power system, you can always go on & pedal to balance things out.
-Lowracer-
 
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