Rear friction engine: faults

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bilboby

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May 14, 2010
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Location
Carnac, France
1: loud motor noise
2: Motor giving out fumes
3: Smell of waste petrol mix
4: Leakage of black oil
5: Bolt fittings came loose/lost thus stopped riding
6: Public against the first two described above

Overall i passed an enjoyable afternoon early evening riding MB around the outskirts of Paris. Infact the MB got so much attention/reaction from the local's young/old that many photo's of the bike + motor setup were taken on mobile phones:cool:. Infact one Harley Davidson owner was so impressed he's invited the MB + myself on a bike run next Sunday near Disneyland Paris.

However i think i'll decline his offer as i don't wish for such attention ridiculing the MB setup. Afterall it's easy/nice when such people complement other's on such build's but i'm not someone who like's to be a joke of the pack nor will i think my MB.

I've sent in a photo concerning the problem of the oil leak i had during my recent/this afternoon's MB ride.

Any help on why such problem's occurred will be received graciously

Also any reason as to why the motor pipe/exhaust is polluting the enviroment with blue fumes?

Cheers & 73's
 

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The oily residue is no doubt dripping from your muffler. If you've got thick smoke at the exhaust, your mixture setting at the carb is probably set a bit too rich. One screw is an idle stop. The other screw is mixture. Start the engine, after warmed up, screw the mixture screw clockwise IN VERY SMALL INCREMENTS! You should notice the idle speed increase due to leaning the mixture. Now screw the idle stop counterclockwise to acheive desired idle speed. You may need to do this a couple of times. REMEMBER, if you lean the mixture too much you will starve the engine of lubrication and ruin it. Turn in until the slightest bit of light smoke is showing. When you ride the bike, if the engine bogs out or loses power, you've leaned it too far. Richen the mixture a little until power resumes. I have the same engine and it was test run at the factory and left rich on the mixture. This should also help w/ the oily mess but it's a 2 cycle and you'll always have some. Noise and vibration too. But lots of power!
 
Cheers guys and @ Gearnut 16:1 ratio @ 125ml oil for a 1/2gallon / 2ltr tank however as the engine is new perhap's the ratio should be higher or less?

@ Whizzerd that's a very good tutorial you have given thus i'll set about adjusting the screws this afternoon & yes you're correct in stating the oil is leaking from the mini muffler.

Also whilst i'm on the subject i've read on this forum that MB riders can expect around 120-150 miles per gallon but yesterday's first real test riding the MB full on meant i probably done around 40 miles ofwhich now the tank is nearly empty. Is that normal?


Hopefully i'll get Whizzerd's advice done later on thus do/enjoy another good 60km their/back MB ride to the Chateau de Versailles:cry:

Once again guy's thank's for your help as i'm sure amateurs like myself can learn much more about MB riding from the advice you both give along with other MB members.

Cheers & Good MB riding
 
I suggest using a 24:1 pre-mix ratio for break in.. After you have 600 Km's on the engine, switch to 32:1.
The fuel mileage should improve as the engine breaks in.
 
That is a rich oil mix. What cannot get burned,, goes out the exhaust, dripping, smoking, & " stankin. " I would clean the plug, making sure it is a good brand name, & run a mix of 24-1 & see if that improves things. Also, it is more expensive, but synthetic oil will cut down on the smoke.
 
Hi Bilbody, I emailed Rick at BGF about a manual for the Friction Drive kit and he replied that he didn't have one yet. So, I looked up the mixture recommended on the so similar HarborFreight engine. 20:1 for break in. 25:1 after. Amsoil, Lucas or other good quality 2 cycle air cooled type synthetic at even 40:1 would be fine. The key here is setting the mixture screw correctly. 40-50 miles on 2litre tank is about the norm on our mb'ing 2 cycle engines. The kit sellers mileage claims are inflated. BTW, on another thread I slyly asked if you are an Amateur Radio Operator. 73's is a common abbreviation used in that activity. You didn't respond so I'll ask more directly. Are you a HAM?
 
Whizzerd said:
Hi Bilbody, I emailed Rick at BGF about a manual for the Friction Drive kit and he replied that he didn't have one yet. So, I looked up the mixture recommended on the so similar HarborFreight engine. 20:1 for break in. 25:1 after. Amsoil, Lucas or other good quality 2 cycle air cooled type synthetic at even 40:1 would be fine. The key here is setting the mixture screw correctly. 40-50 miles on 2litre tank is about the norm on our mb'ing 2 cycle engines. The kit sellers mileage claims are inflated. BTW, on another thread I slyly asked if you are an Amateur Radio Operator. 73's is a common abbreviation used in that activity. You didn't respond so I'll ask more directly. Are you a HAM?
Click to expand...


Hello MB comerades,

Sorry for late replying but cheers for your help on mixture ratio's etc and today i've run dry the tank thus therefore from tomorrow i'll be using 2 stroke synthetic where before i wasn't. Today's MB ride was more about breaking in the engine whilst running the tank dry of any old excess fuel though for the last 5km i had to push the MB due to the roller housing bolt nut's untightening & being lost due to the engine vibration.

Tomorrow look's promising for another MB ride once synthetic fuel correctly measured has been mixed and added to the tank. As for the SP i'm using a Active AX 80 which though not new seem's to perform better than the BGF stock plug supplied with the kit.

Cheers everyone & 73's



NB: Whizzerd i'll PM you concerning your question about my eating habits:D
 
Made a discovery as to the possible reasons why spent thick black oil/fuel was leaking between the main engine housing & the muffler box. After inspecting a spare Active 50cc engine i have i noticed that there was a metal type card between the motor & muffler box but on the BGF motor there was nothing as the box was bolted directly onto the engine. Needless to say now i've remedied the problem and hopefully no more leaks on the scale which was happening before will occur.

Also i've noticed after watching some youtube videos concerning rear friction drive engines that when the user pulls the starter cord the MB user's engine + drive roller turns even when placed on the back wheel. However the back wheel only turns when they start pulling the accelerateur handle but on my setup the back wheel turns when placing the drive housing onto the wheel regardless if i pull or not the gas handle. So something's still not correctly setup but what?

Cheers
 

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