TENSIONER-LESS chain tensioners!!!

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I have designed a new 'tensionerless' chain tensioning system for 2-stroke HT engines. (to get rid of those evil rollers!!)
First you install the BMX 1/2 linkto the pedal chain...Then to get the engine chain tension perfect, you simply slide these shims in between the rear mount & the engine. (& as the chain stretches over time, you can simply add another shim to re-tension the chain again!)
The shims are laser cut from stainless steel (to prevent rust), have a built in handle & are shaped to make them easy to install.
I've tested this on several bike builds with great success.

I'll post another pic of what it looks like after it's installed ASAP.

Each kit will be sold for $30. (as pictured)

THE FIRST 5 BUYERS FROM THIS SITE can try one for only $20!!

Anyone interested can PM me or go through my website- www.venicemotorbikes.com
vmbtensioner.jpg
 
$30? Even $20 seems pretty expensive

I have designed a new 'tensionerless' chain tensioning system for 2-stroke HT engines. (to get rid of those evil rollers!!)
First you install the BMX 1/2 linkto the pedal chain...Then to get the engine chain tension perfect, you simply slide these shims in between the rear mount & the engine. (& as the chain stretches over time, you can simply add another shim to re-tension the chain again!)
The shims are laser cut from stainless steel (to prevent rust), have a built in handle & are shaped to make them easy to install.
I've tested this on several bike builds with great success.

I'll post another pic of what it looks like after it's installed ASAP.

Each kit will be sold for $30. (as pictured)

THE FIRST 5 BUYERS FROM THIS SITE can try one for only $20!!

Anyone interested can PM me or go through my website- www.venicemotorbikes.com
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk125/VeniceMotorBikes/various%20stuff/vmbtensioner.jpg[/QUOTE]

$30? Even $20 seems pretty expensive

People have been making motor spacers out of aluminum for a long
time.
 
Clarify?

I have always read, especially in this forum, that tightening your chain by adjusting motor is not ideal and that is why there is a tensioner. If I am incorrect, I apologize. I am a rookie, but I have a pretty good handle on things. Furthermore, is not the rear motor mount the first thing that should be fastened?
 
I have always read, especially in this forum, that tightening your chain by adjusting motor is not ideal and that is why there is a tensioner. If I am incorrect, I apologize. I am a rookie, but I have a pretty good handle on things. Furthermore, is not the rear motor mount the first thing that should be fastened?

Please expound. IMHO a rolling tensioner is just a bomb ready to go off. Plus it robs power. Why would using proper spacers or adjusting the motor to tension be a bad thing? I could see a problem if the engine was not properly bolted, but that should not be problem with VMB's shims.
 
I guess that redirecting a chain over a roller would technically take some power but just how much would we be talking. Seems to me that that would qualify as background noise. I've been using a spring loaded chain tensioner on my Staton chain drive since day one and drive chains have never come to mind except for an occasional lubing.
 
I'm not saying it robs a whole lot of power....but how many HT kit tensioners have mangled people's spokes, etc?

My main question/issue - why is tensioning the chain with shims a bad thing?
 
The VeniceMotorBikes.com shims seem like a perfectly good solution to the HT chain issue and as you said HT chain tensioners have a sorted history. I believe that ElMicNip was probably referring to something he had read, with unknown context.
 
"T-Shirt" chain adjusters

Hi guys I can guarantee you-all that this concept works perfectly!

Those of you who have been around long enough will remember me telling people how to make these themselves from extruded aluminum strips from the hardware store, probably as early as 2001. I called them T-Shirts, because that was the shape I made mine.

I originally got the idea from aligning the front end on my 1955 Chevy, since old-fashioned front end alignment was done by adding and subtracting shims on the upper A-Arms.

The "Chain Tensioner" in those days was not ball-bearing, just the nylon wheel running on a hardened steel shaft. The less parts you have in your final drive, obviously the less can possibly go wrong.

Yes I have had the slack-adjuster dive into the spokes, and it can, and will mangle a wheel!

Any spacer you use behind the engine is worth twice its thickness in slack adjustment, 1/8"=1/4 chain take up.

After having used a couple of half-links in the past, I will only recommend them to people that I would like to beat in the race, as my experience with them, was they are not reliable.

So, there's my 2 cents worth, strictly from my own experience.

Have fun,

Mike
 
you could always get those teniteners that go on the axle the have a little plate that slips on to the rear of the drop outs like on those electric stand up scooters.
 
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