Big Problem, Better Solution

Masor

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There are several things that cause spokes to break. On cheap hubs the flange is to thin and it knives the spokes. This is a common problem on non motorized bicycles with strong riders. Thicker spokes can help. Having at least 36 spokes is also better. Having a freewheel mounted gear on the hub will also reduce wear.
 
I am using a 36hole Alex double wide rim with 12g spokes and a Hi-stop coaster hub. The motor cog is mounted right on the hub (file inner hole to fit) with one rubber washer on the inside of the spokes. So far so good, almost a year.

www.niagaracycle.com
 
It all has to do with what the wheel was setup for. I purchased my tandem in 1990. It came with 36 spoked wheels on suzie tandem hubs. The rear hub had a chrommolly solid axle. I could not get five miles up a canyon before I had a bent axle or broken spokes at the hub on the drive side. The first month was a nightmare. The hub flange on the suzie hubs was below .050 thick. I ordered in Phil Wood tandem hubs 48 spoked. The flange on these hubs is around .100 thick. The axle is oversized and made from hardened SS. They are quick release. I have never had a bent axle on these hubs or a broken spoke. I use 14ga spokes. Because of the weight of two riders the rims develop stress cracks but this usually does not happen until they are around 3 years old. The steel hubs shells that are on coaster and some geared hubs usually have thin flanges. This has to do with the cost of the equipment to form or cut the metal. You can keep spoke breakage down by having the 12, 11 or even 10ga spokes. Another thing that can help is to make sure the neck of the spoke is snug against the flange. If there is space between the hub flange so that the spoke does not hit the flange it can twist back in forth under stress and cause the spoke to break. You can use machine washers to take up this space. A #2 machine washer will fit the 14ga spokes.
 
Good tip Reb, it's actually a bearing surface because the metals rub there! Another good way is to tir them together with copper wire and solder the spokes where they "X". There's an entire thread on that somewhere on this site!

That's what I like about this site, In a World where cheaper is better and employers demand more with less, we get the honest skinny on things!

Hey, Happy, thank your boy MM here for putting the squeez on them in the Falls! They are right around the corner from me and seemed geared to take care of us the customer, believe it or not! You guy's will be hearing a lot more about Niagara Cycle on here!
 
I build my tandem wheels 4 cross. I weave the spokes so they cross at the 3rd and 4th position. It takes more time stressing the wheel as you are finishing but they stay straight. I don't do this on high flange hubs.
 
re: 4 cross. Yes, that is the strongest way.

I use a pair of ground smooth lineman's dykes to hold the spoke when making final spoke adjustments, to prevent spoke wind up. It takes a while, but avoids "pinging" or breakage. You can do the same for <$5 by wrapping a pair of cheap pliers with electrical tape on the jaws, and using rubber bands for a spring to close them (open with fingers 1 handed, will close, then clamp down with fingers=fast)
 
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