happycheapskate
Active Member
re: Band brake supplemental
Has anyone used it with the v-brake by employing a dual-cable lever? That might be useful.
Has anyone used it with the v-brake by employing a dual-cable lever? That might be useful.
Issues with Spooky Tooth's HD Wheel.
- Thread starter hms-one
- Start date
R
recumbentbill
Guest
dual cable
The dual pull is what grubee recommends for use with the band brake. It's what he uses on his gt1 & gt2 HD bikes that his company makes . it's what I used on my cruiser before I went the shift kit route. When adjusted right the two brakes worked good with my drum on the front. 3 brakes are better than 2
The dual pull is what grubee recommends for use with the band brake. It's what he uses on his gt1 & gt2 HD bikes that his company makes . it's what I used on my cruiser before I went the shift kit route. When adjusted right the two brakes worked good with my drum on the front. 3 brakes are better than 2
loquin
Well-Known Member
The threads on that hub appear to be standard, right-hand threads. The natural effect of the drive will try to unscrew the sprocket from the hub. A brake assembly, on the other hand, will self tighten on RH threads when you apply the brakes.
As recumbentbill mentions above, a brake assembly will act as a locking ring for right-hand threads (it's like double nutting a bolt.) If you haven't installed the brake assembly yet, you will HAVE to either install it, or use a locking ring to keep the sprocket in place.
BTW - I've seen a thread-on adapter for a disc brake rotor that could be used also. Of course, you would still have to get a caliper mounted in that case...
Staton's thread-on hub uses left-hand threads and left-hand freewheels. With his approach, the motor action serves to tighten the sprocket/freewheel, not loosen it.
As recumbentbill mentions above, a brake assembly will act as a locking ring for right-hand threads (it's like double nutting a bolt.) If you haven't installed the brake assembly yet, you will HAVE to either install it, or use a locking ring to keep the sprocket in place.
BTW - I've seen a thread-on adapter for a disc brake rotor that could be used also. Of course, you would still have to get a caliper mounted in that case...
Staton's thread-on hub uses left-hand threads and left-hand freewheels. With his approach, the motor action serves to tighten the sprocket/freewheel, not loosen it.
Last edited:
happycheapskate
Active Member
Thanks. I thought about using a dual lever for Front and Rear caliper brakes (with v-brake shoes. Works good 1 to 1 on the front, with machined rim)
I have a coaster brake in the back wheel.
Do you think the brake should be biased hard toward the front brake? I had a friend who broke his arm on a motorcycle because it had an automatic rear brake that would kick on when the front lever was pulled hard enough. Never heard of full size motorcycles which did that , before his accident.
Bicycles have worked well with dual brakes though. I saw a guy with a damaged hand who used one on a road bicycle.
I have a coaster brake in the back wheel.
Do you think the brake should be biased hard toward the front brake? I had a friend who broke his arm on a motorcycle because it had an automatic rear brake that would kick on when the front lever was pulled hard enough. Never heard of full size motorcycles which did that , before his accident.
Bicycles have worked well with dual brakes though. I saw a guy with a damaged hand who used one on a road bicycle.
JunkyardDog
Active Member
Too bad about the Spooky Tooth wheel, I almost bought one once, glad now I didn't. It should be a piece of cake (with frosting even) to design and build a wheel with a rear sprocket that will not come off. Since it came from China, I guess that explains it. They can't seem to get anything right.
I would definitely NOT use that band brake, nor would I connect the front and rear brakes together. Doing so is just asking for a crash. Honda has built several motorcycles with linked brakes, including my former '95 Goldwing. These things are dangerous. When you apply the brake hard, the weight transfer takes almost all the weight off the rear wheel, making it super easy to lock up and put you down. When I have to make a panic stop on a motorcycle, I do not even use the rear brake. If the front brake is held on the verge of lockup as it should be, there will be no weight on the rear wheel, and just touching the rear brake will lock it up. The rear brake has it's purpose, during normal riding, several maneuvers cannot be done properly without it. But don't touch it in an emergency. Bicycles seem to be a little more forgiving, probably because of their much slower speed. Still, if you lock up the front wheel, the rear wheel is going to come off the road. Not that I'm recommending locking up the front wheel, and enjoying the almost immediate crash that would follow, but if you are hard on the front brake, it's better not to touch the rear one.
I would definitely NOT use that band brake, nor would I connect the front and rear brakes together. Doing so is just asking for a crash. Honda has built several motorcycles with linked brakes, including my former '95 Goldwing. These things are dangerous. When you apply the brake hard, the weight transfer takes almost all the weight off the rear wheel, making it super easy to lock up and put you down. When I have to make a panic stop on a motorcycle, I do not even use the rear brake. If the front brake is held on the verge of lockup as it should be, there will be no weight on the rear wheel, and just touching the rear brake will lock it up. The rear brake has it's purpose, during normal riding, several maneuvers cannot be done properly without it. But don't touch it in an emergency. Bicycles seem to be a little more forgiving, probably because of their much slower speed. Still, if you lock up the front wheel, the rear wheel is going to come off the road. Not that I'm recommending locking up the front wheel, and enjoying the almost immediate crash that would follow, but if you are hard on the front brake, it's better not to touch the rear one.
happycheapskate
Active Member
Yes, I'm very familiar with bicycle braking, and somewhat familiar with heavy motorcycle braking procedures. I think dual brakes are generally a bad idea except for cruiser or cargo bikes that won't be going more than 20mph.
I agree that dual-activated brakes on heavy mopeds or full motorcycles is a very bad idea.
I think the systems using the rear v-brake and rear band brake in combination at 1 lever is probably not a bad idea, if there is something to adjust or regulate them to compensate for wear or cable stretch.
I agree that dual-activated brakes on heavy mopeds or full motorcycles is a very bad idea.
I think the systems using the rear v-brake and rear band brake in combination at 1 lever is probably not a bad idea, if there is something to adjust or regulate them to compensate for wear or cable stretch.
Last edited:
$100+ waste
In the end I found that even with a lockring the sprocket would tend to slip aprox a quarter turn. That bike was eventually stolen w/ the HD wheel not on it.
I do not generally recommend the HD Hub Kit for pedal start engines because of this problem. If you do buy one, at least be aware of the problems and be sure to use loctite and a lockring. The band brake seems to take up much more space, be more complicated, and no more effective than a backpedal brake.
If anyone knows of a better sprocket mounting system than the Grubee Hub Kit I would be interested. Otherwise I'm just gonna go with the standard mount kit on a 12 ga. wheel with a backpedal brake for my next build.
Since no-one seems to like the dual pull idea for front and rear vbrakes, does anyone know about the quality/ease-of-use of the combination brake/clutch lever or the throttle clutch. Both ideas seem rather clumsy to me on first inspection.
PEACE
In the end I found that even with a lockring the sprocket would tend to slip aprox a quarter turn. That bike was eventually stolen w/ the HD wheel not on it.
I do not generally recommend the HD Hub Kit for pedal start engines because of this problem. If you do buy one, at least be aware of the problems and be sure to use loctite and a lockring. The band brake seems to take up much more space, be more complicated, and no more effective than a backpedal brake.
If anyone knows of a better sprocket mounting system than the Grubee Hub Kit I would be interested. Otherwise I'm just gonna go with the standard mount kit on a 12 ga. wheel with a backpedal brake for my next build.
Since no-one seems to like the dual pull idea for front and rear vbrakes, does anyone know about the quality/ease-of-use of the combination brake/clutch lever or the throttle clutch. Both ideas seem rather clumsy to me on first inspection.
PEACE
happycheapskate
Active Member
I like the idea of the v-brake/shifter-as-clutch mechanisms.
I agree it seems awkward though, but looks like a tidy way to use 2 v-brakes on your mb. I guess it depends on what machine you are used to.
If you are used to a bike with a left hand throttle lever (auto clutch), or a bike with left hand rear brake, it might be ok. If you are used to a left hand clutch, it will probably be funny at first (lot of rear tire skids when you are going for the clutch hahhaha).
If you don't drive in heavy traffic much, it's probably cool, but I think it would get old if you have to thumb the clutch all the time.
I agree it seems awkward though, but looks like a tidy way to use 2 v-brakes on your mb. I guess it depends on what machine you are used to.
If you are used to a bike with a left hand throttle lever (auto clutch), or a bike with left hand rear brake, it might be ok. If you are used to a left hand clutch, it will probably be funny at first (lot of rear tire skids when you are going for the clutch hahhaha).
If you don't drive in heavy traffic much, it's probably cool, but I think it would get old if you have to thumb the clutch all the time.
arkives1
Member
I have the same HD wheel but I have a freewheeling sprocket on it along with the band brake. My engine has a pull start and centrifugal clutch. This works well except when reducing speed. Sometimes I'd get a bit of a jolt when the sprocket caught up with the wheel if accelerating while moving after slowing. Cannot pedal start mine due to the freewheel. So far no problem with the starter. The only other problem I have is that the wheel sprocket doesn't line up with the engine sprocket. The engine of course is fixed in the way it mounts to the frame so there is no lateral adjustment there. I need to shift the rear wheel just about 3/8 of an inch and I don't see a way to do that other than spreading the frame and using spacers on the right side of the wheel. As is, it rides ok but I can feel and hear the chain dragging on the teeth back there as I start out, obviously the engine noise soon makes it impossible to hear the sprocket anymore. I have not had a chain pop off yet but it feels as if it might go at any time.
Similar threads
- Article
- Deleted member 35519
- Photos & Bicycle Builds
