Snapped Piston Rings and Head Bolt

Just use standard nuts, along with decent replacement studs. Torque to about 12 foot-pounds and Bob's your uncle.

If I were you, I wouldn't run the engine until the stud and rings are replaced.
You're risking over-heating at the moment.
As motorpsycho said, it's good that you're having a go, but patience is a virtue, so wait until you get the new parts.
(My 2c worth)

Aussie, could I richen the air/fuel ratio to lessen the danger of overheating? It's honestly my only transportation until I can get my 66' Bug running...
 
what will happen is that you will lose compression where that ring gap is at. this will allow blowby, which will result in gas AND oil getting into the crankcase where the bearings are. Gas will wash the oil off the bearings, and you will have little to no lubrication.
the other thing is that the broken ring will continue to break as the engine runs. It will chip and crack in small peices, and if a big enough peice breaks off, it could lock up the piston.
not to mention that the cylinder will not wear evenly which will make the cylinder out of round. This would be a long term effect and it would result in the piston and rings fitting very loose in the cyliner, or the piston eventually cocking sightly sideways in the cylinder causing it to lock up.
 
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i took my engine apart 2 weeks ago to take a look at the cylinder. I took the head and sleeve off and cleaned off the top of the piston (for some reason there was a bunch of gunk on there). When I was trying to put the jug/sleeve back on, I got really frustrated while trying to put the rings back in and i ended up snapping a little bit off of both rings. As if that wasn't bad enough, When I was tightening down the head bolts, I accidentally snapped the front-left one. Despite all of the wisdom you guys give, I made that crucial mistake of not using a torque wrench. So no need to say, I lost a bunch of compression and torque. And after riding it for about a week, my engine was just SOAKED in oil and ****. Now, I'm not sure if the actual head bolt missing is the problem or if it's just leaking from the head gasket. Also, Are the piston rings worrisome or can I keep them in there and replace them somewhere around Christmas?

Well what is really your story?? From how I read it the stud wasn't broken to start with.
 
Motorpsycho: I'll heed your warning. Riding around on this thing is not worth permanent damage to the engine or seizing. I'll try to get replacement parts ASAP.

Al Fisherman: What is this? An interrogation?? I accidentally got two different situations switched. The FIRST time I removed the jug, I got the rings in right without damage but snapped the stud. The SECOND time I removed the jug, I snapped the rings. Are you happy now? This is supposed to be a COMMUNITY of people with like interests. You don't need to go over others posts with a fine-tuned comb and point our their small mistakes. Honestly, lets keep the unity.
 
what will happen is that you will lose compression where that ring gap is at. this will allow blowby, which will result in gas AND oil getting into the crankcase where the bearings are. Gas will wash the oil off the bearings, and you will have little to no lubrication.
the other thing is that the broken ring will continue to break as the engine runs. It will chip and crack in small peices, and if a big enough peice breaks off, it could lock up the piston.
not to mention that the cylinder will not wear evenly which will make the cylinder out of round. This would be a long term effect and it would result in the piston and rings fitting very loose in the cyliner, or the piston eventually cocking sightly sideways in the cylinder causing it to lock up.

With all due respect sir :), we are discussing a 2-stroke engine here. Gas and oil are supposed to get into the crank case. I think that you are confusing a 4-stroke operation with a 2-stroke operation.

In keeping with the thread,
Broken/ chipped piston rings will lower the compression ratio. A missing cylinder stud will result in a leaky cylinder head gasket, lowered compression, and possible damage to the head or cylinder gasket surface at the point of leakage if the engine is operated for an extended period of time while the problem still exists.

It's a cheap engine. You might get lucky and it may hold up until you can replace the stud and rings, or get your '66 Bug going (I personally like that, had a '65 years ago). If it craps out on you, buy another engine kit when you can.
I applaud your efforts on repairing your engine. Everyone makes mistakes.
True, it's better to learn from others mistakes and heed the notes and warnings shared on this site, but everyone has a different learning curve and personally making the mistake yourself typically results in a lesson that will never be forgotten.
Keep your chin up, torque wrench in hand, and get-er-done!
 
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Motorpsycho: I'll heed your warning. Riding around on this thing is not worth permanent damage to the engine or seizing. I'll try to get replacement parts ASAP.

Al Fisherman: What is this? An interrogation?? I accidentally got two different situations switched. The FIRST time I removed the jug, I got the rings in right without damage but snapped the stud. The SECOND time I removed the jug, I snapped the rings. Are you happy now? This is supposed to be a COMMUNITY of people with like interests. You don't need to go over others posts with a fine-tuned comb and point our their small mistakes. Honestly, lets keep the unity.


An interrogation?? No not at all but how can a question be answered if the question isn't asked properly. We can go with the typed word only and can't read the intent of the writer.
 
.....and possible damage to the head or cylinder gasket surface at the point of leakage if the engine is operated for an extended period of time while the problem still exists.

Also, possible distortion of the head and maybe the cylinder. That will happen very quickly.
(I was brief in my reply last night because I couldn't imagine intentionally running any engine with broken rings or a stud missing.)
 
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