Chain Tensioner ~~chain Tensioner & Hub Adapter~~

[Karryhunt]

Possibly the most talked about and controversial items ever known to anyone building a motorized bike. There have literally been hundreds of ideas offered on the various methods to overcome the problems encountered in keeping the chain properly tensioned and sprockets properly aligned. Some of the ideas give a new meaning to Rube Goldberg while others are very innovative and practical. I have tried just about all of them and have come to the conclusion that only two items offered by vendors on this site work and are worth much more than the cost of the parts when you consider ease of installation and safety. They are Kip Springer's chain tensioner and Maniac Mechanic's hub adapter. Both of these items are available from Pirate Cycles.

I am in no way associated with Pirate Cycles or the inventors or receiving any monetary benefits from this shameless plug.

 

[Turtle Tedd]

I also think the Maniac Mechanic hub adapter sprocket is the only way to go..A spring loaded chain tensioner is also a good idea

 

[juliman]

that may be the case but not all of us can affordparts,especially in aus, where the shipping at the mo would probably cost more than the part, anyway...=)

 

[48rob]

On my first bike, I fashioned one from a roller skate wheel after the kit supplied pulley wore out, works great.

On my second bike, I decided it would be a lot easier to use half links in the chain and redrill the engine mount holes for more adjustment.
I have no tensioner now, and it works great!
One less part, one less adjustment, one less worry.

Rob

 

[Karryhunt]

On my first bike, I fashioned one from a roller skate wheel after the kit supplied pulley wore out, works great.

On my second bike, I decided it would be a lot easier to use half links in the chain and redrill the engine mount holes for more adjustment.
I have no tensioner now, and it works great!
One less part, one less adjustment, one less worry.

Rob

I suppose thats fine if you don't mind chain slap and still have to worry about throwing chains. Even with perfect alignment and tension you will get chain slap from the engines harmonics. Or at least thats what I have encountered.

 

[48rob]

I suppose thats fine if you don't mind chain slap and still have to worry about throwing chains. Even with perfect alignment and tension you will get chain slap from the engines harmonics. Or at least thats what I have encountered.

I haven't noticed any chain slap, though I suppose there could be some.

I've not thown any chains since setting the bike up this way, but I suppose it could happen...

My setup may not be the best way, but it works well for me.

Rob

 

[motorpsycho]

On one of my bikes, i made a spring loaded chain tensioner, similar to the kip springer one. This is the first time i have ever seen the kip springer one, and i made mine about 2 years ago.
Mine is made from a peice of flat, thick aluminum with a steel toothed derailer gear that has a brass bushing in it. the bushing and gear are on a steel post. I do have to grease the steel post and bushing on occasion, but so far, there is no wear on either of them. I drilled a hole in the flat aluminum peice and mounted it to the side cover using a longer screw with a lock nut on it. i used a throttle return spring that goes from the flat aluminum down to the lower frame tube where the kick stand is mounted, to provide downward pull pressure. this cost me about $5.00 to make and it works great.
p.s., please ignore the rear engine mounting bracket and studs. this was when i first mounted the engine. I have since lowered the rear of the engine to reduce it's angle and replaced the studs much bettter ones.

on my other bike i made a slider type chain tensioner that's hidden.
basically, i took an idea from a dirt bike, where they use a peice of teflon (or similar type plastic) on the swing arm for the chain to slide over. it isn't a tensioner on a dirt bike, it's more of a guard, to keep the chain from rubbing on the swing arm. I used a rectangular chunk of teflon and shaped it into a wedge, and mounted it on the inside of the rear frame tube right where the engine chain is. the chain rides up over the wedge shape, which causes the chain to stay under tension all the time. I drilled a small hole in the wedge right where the chain rides, and filled it with grease. this automatically puts a little grease on the chain as the wedge wears down (but it does not wear very much...it's very tough stuff). this is on a schwinn occ chopper, and that's why the frame tube in the rear is square, and not round.

I personally would rather try to design and make my own parts than buy them, unless it's something that I can't make myself.

 

[Karryhunt]

On one of my bikes, i made a spring loaded chain tensioner, similar to the kip springer one. This is the first time i have ever seen the kip springer one, and i made mine about 2 years ago.
Mine is made from a peice of flat, thick aluminum with a steel toothed derailer gear that has a brass bushing in it. the bushing and gear are on a steel post. I do have to grease the steel post and bushing on occasion, but so far, there is no wear on either of them. I drilled a hole in the flat aluminum peice and mounted it to the side cover using a longer screw with a lock nut on it. i used a throttle return spring that goes from the flat aluminum down to the lower frame tube where the kick stand is mounted, to provide downward pull pressure. this cost me about $5.00 to make and it works great.
p.s., please ignore the rear engine mounting bracket and studs. this was when i first mounted the engine. I have since lowered the rear of the engine to reduce it's angle and replaced the studs much bettter ones.

on my other bike i made a slider type chain tensioner that's hidden.
basically, i took an idea from a dirt bike, where they use a peice of teflon (or similar type plastic) on the swing arm for the chain to slide over. it isn't a tensioner on a dirt bike, it's more of a guard, to keep the chain from rubbing on the swing arm. I used a rectangular chunk of teflon and shaped it into a wedge, and mounted it on the inside of the rear frame tube right where the engine chain is. the chain rides up over the wedge shape, which causes the chain to stay under tension all the time. I drilled a small hole in the wedge right where the chain rides, and filled it with grease. this automatically puts a little grease on the chain as the wedge wears down (but it does not wear very much...it's very tough stuff). this is on a schwinn occ chopper, and that's why the frame tube in the rear is square, and not round.

I personally would rather try to design and make my own parts than buy them, unless it's something that I can't make myself.

I am certainly not an expert on anything but logic tells me that the tensioner should be on the underside of the chain and not on the pull side because the pull side is always under tension with the engine running.

 

[motorpsycho]

I am certainly not an expert on anything but logic tells me that the tensioner should be on the underside of the chain and not on the pull side because the pull side is always under tension with the engine running.

Whatever...they work for me, and they do an excellent job of keeping the tension on the chains all the time.

 

[Karryhunt]

Whatever...they work for me, and they do an excellent job of keeping the tension on the chains all the time.

No need to be hard headed on this one.

Just stop and think for a minute and hopefully it will kick in for you.

The top part of the chain is always under tension. Its the bottom part of the chain that loosens after passing over the engine drive sprocket. Just trying to help you out here son.