motorpsycho
Active Member
Not being hard headed, just stating what works for ME.
My bikes are not my sole source of transportation, they are just for fun.
SON?? I don't think so.
Chain Tensioner ~~chain Tensioner & Hub Adapter~~
- Thread starter Karryhunt
- Start date
Not being hard headed, just stating what works for ME.
My bikes are not my sole source of transportation, they are just for fun.
SON?? I don't think so.
Karryhunt
Member
OK.....I give up. Would you mind telling me why you think your way is correct? I have told you why I think its incorrect. If you come up with a logical answer, I will be more than happy to make a public apology to you.
Surely I was jesting when I called you son even though I have more than enough years to be your father.
motorpsycho
Active Member
I never said that my way was correct or incorrect. I said that it works for me. It does what it's supposed to do and just because my tensioner is on the top does not make that much of a difference in my opinion. Weather it's on the top where the engine is pulling the chain, or on the bottom where the engine is pushing the chain, in the end, it has the same effect. In the beginning I wasn't even using a chain tensioner because I didn't need one. But, I went from a 44 tooth rear sprocket down to a 41 tooth sprocket, and the only reason that I am now using a tensioner is because I could not get the peddle chain and the engine chain tight at the same time. Yes I tried half links butr that didn't help. This is what works for me, and my chain is always at the correct tension. I do not have chain slap or any of the other things that are so common.
I know that you were joking around by calling me son, and yes, you do have enough years on me to be my father.
I know that you were joking around by calling me son, and yes, you do have enough years on me to be my father.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
I do like how you took advantage of the longer bolt in the top right changing out the chainguard for the springed tensioner. That's creative. A shame there's not really any other place you could mount a tensioner right on the motor to keep it on the slack side of the drive sprocket.
arkives1
Member
chain tensioner & Hub Adapter
Actually I think there needs to be some tension on both sides of the chain. When you're coasting (with a fixed rear sprocket) the wheel can actually be pushing the chain forward on the top and pulling backward on the bottom...exactly the opposite of what occurs under engine power. Keeping the tensioner in exactly the right relationship to the sprockets seems to be the problem. Having rear drop outs on a bike like the OCC Chopper and on mopeds helps because it gives another way to adjust chain length keeping the chain as straight as possible.
Actually I think there needs to be some tension on both sides of the chain. When you're coasting (with a fixed rear sprocket) the wheel can actually be pushing the chain forward on the top and pulling backward on the bottom...exactly the opposite of what occurs under engine power. Keeping the tensioner in exactly the right relationship to the sprockets seems to be the problem. Having rear drop outs on a bike like the OCC Chopper and on mopeds helps because it gives another way to adjust chain length keeping the chain as straight as possible.
Karryhunt
Member
Attachments
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
I thought of an idiotic idea, and I'm going to have to try it.
Basically like the stock tensioner but with two carriage bolts. Lots of options, but most won't work. Could try two in the front two in the back, a ghost sprocket style pushing the chain apart by the drive, pulling them together by the driven. Could try single pulling together, single pushing apart. I have yet to try and get my own ideas out there for something, so it'll be a fun waste of paper if anything. Gotta take it to the drawing board for now, I'll post up when I get a rough idea figured out. Shouldn't be too tough.
Basically like the stock tensioner but with two carriage bolts. Lots of options, but most won't work. Could try two in the front two in the back, a ghost sprocket style pushing the chain apart by the drive, pulling them together by the driven. Could try single pulling together, single pushing apart. I have yet to try and get my own ideas out there for something, so it'll be a fun waste of paper if anything. Gotta take it to the drawing board for now, I'll post up when I get a rough idea figured out. Shouldn't be too tough.
professor
Active Member
That KIP item is real nice!
For anyone reading this post, Kerry is quite right. On power - the top chain is tight and the bottom loose. A spring loaded tensioner on top will take the slack out only on deceleration.
On my home made bike, I use a fixed tensioner on bottom and a plastic guide that just messes the chain when it is tight on the top run. The guide keeps the (bike type) chain from jumping off on severe bumps.
For anyone reading this post, Kerry is quite right. On power - the top chain is tight and the bottom loose. A spring loaded tensioner on top will take the slack out only on deceleration.
On my home made bike, I use a fixed tensioner on bottom and a plastic guide that just messes the chain when it is tight on the top run. The guide keeps the (bike type) chain from jumping off on severe bumps.
happycheapskate
Active Member
PS. I saw Kip's tensioner design when he was first asking readers for feedback. I like his design and I'm very glad someone makes a MB tensioner product now that you can buy online.
re: top chain tensioner
I"ve been running a similar design for more than half a year.
Mine uses a long replacement for one of the drive gear cover screws, and a neoprene roller from a go-karts supplier.
The point the roller engages the chain is directly behind the cover, where it has a lot of leverage. It only takes up a little bit of slack, and prevents vibration and lessens chain wear. I can pop the clutch whenever I want without any problem of slacking, and the chain does not slack even when bogging through mud or grass. It did have a little chain slack on the first ride, because I did not shorten the chain enough, and did not have as strong a spring.
I am glad to see someone else has used a similar design with success.
http://motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=860&pictureid=6459
re: http://motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=303515&postcount=7
re: top chain tensioner
I"ve been running a similar design for more than half a year.
Mine uses a long replacement for one of the drive gear cover screws, and a neoprene roller from a go-karts supplier.
The point the roller engages the chain is directly behind the cover, where it has a lot of leverage. It only takes up a little bit of slack, and prevents vibration and lessens chain wear. I can pop the clutch whenever I want without any problem of slacking, and the chain does not slack even when bogging through mud or grass. It did have a little chain slack on the first ride, because I did not shorten the chain enough, and did not have as strong a spring.
I am glad to see someone else has used a similar design with success.
http://motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=860&pictureid=6459
re: http://motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=303515&postcount=7
Last edited:
motorpsycho
Active Member
PS. I saw Kip's tensioner design when he was first asking readers for feedback. I like his design and I'm very glad someone makes a MB tensioner product now that you can buy online.
re: top chain tensioner
I"ve been running a similar design for more than half a year.
Mine uses a long replacement for one of the drive gear cover screws, and a neoprene roller from a go-karts supplier.
The point the roller engages the chain is directly behind the cover, where it has a lot of leverage. It only takes up a little bit of slack, and prevents vibration and lessens chain wear. I can pop the clutch whenever I want without any problem of slacking, and the chain does not slack even when bogging through mud or grass. It did have a little chain slack on the first ride, because I did not shorten the chain enough, and did not have as strong a spring.
I am glad to see someone else has used a similar design with success.
http://motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=860&pictureid=6459
re: http://motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=303515&postcount=7
yep, like i said it works for me, and it does what it's supposed to. I have been running this design on my bike for 3 years now, with no problems at all.
