Whizzer is being a brat!

Hi,seems like remember reading on this forum that the rear wiring harness needed to be plugged in in order to complete a ground circuit . Without the rear harness plugged in ,the use of a jumper was necessary in the rear plug to complete a necessary circuit to get a whizzer running. Suggest you do search for this type of wiring problem. I hope this helps . Good luck.

didn't seem to have any affect with spark or lights (front/blinkers)
 
Whizzer wiring

Hi , I think this is the post that I was referring to. Post was buy Quenton Guenther,one of the most knowledgeable Whizzer experts on this forum. Hope this is helpful.

Whizzer wiring

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After hundreds of requests I agreed to supply a lot of information on the wiring and wiring harness.
Whizzer has offered several different versions of the harness, but the basics remain the same. Often wire colors are changed by one of their vendors, but is usually exchanged with a similar color.
The most common problem is the loss of grounds or the misunderstanding of the 2 ground system. All "black" wires are ground. All "dark green" wires are ground. In order for the motor to fire only a few items are needed. If the battery isn't used [to smooth out the current] several items won't function correctly. The ignition circuit only needs a Coil, CDI, alternator [stator], and the ignition sensor to power the motor. If you use a battery and don't use the AC/DC & regulator modules, the battery will most likely not survive. The horn won't work correctly without the battery. The turn signals & brake light will cause the lights to operate poorly without the battery. Most Whizzer owners leave the key switch on and run the battery down. If the battery is completly down, the motor most likely will not charge the batter up full, and will require charging with a small battery charger. If the ground on the coil is missing the plug will not fire. If the ground on the CDI is missing the plug will not fire. If the kill switch is shorted to the handlebars the plug will not fire. The horn is activated by attaching a ground to the horn [via the horn button]. The key switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground when in the off position. The kill switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground in the off position. The ignition switch should be used when a battery is used with the complete haness, becuse it allows the lights to work off the battery when the motor isn't running. All orange and light blue wires are for the turn signals. Green wires with a red stripe are usually the brake light system [however I have seen green with a yellow strip used]. If the turn signals don't flash it is most likely in the switch on the left handlebar needs cleaned. Tail light bulbs burn out often if ridden on a bumpy road. the most commonly replaced parts are the tail light bulb, the headlight bulb [special], turn signal flasher, and the coil [broken spark plug cap or wire pulled out of coil body]. Most people that modify the harness have problems with the ground circuits. I have found it easier to hide the extra wires as opposed to removing them. The later wiring harness has a ground circuit in the rear light plug [motor won't fire unless the rear of the harness is plugged in. The following items have a ground... coil [green wire is the ground], CDI [black wire is the ground], regulator [black wire is the ground], AC/DC relay [black wire is the ground] key switch [yellow wire with a red stripe is ground] kill switch [green wire is the ground] battery [black wire is the ground]. The gray wire on the horn is 12V [with motor running or with battery] The horn, flasher, and brake light switches aren't grounded. The 3 wires for the front head light are ground [black wire], and the other 2 are for high and low beam [controlled from the left control assembly. the 3 wires for the tail ight are ground [black wire], tail ight [yellow], and brake light [usually light green with a red stripe]. There are many extra yellow and black wires in the harness to power the guage lights [speedometer & tachometer]. If the fuse is blown the motor will most likely still run, but the lights won't work with the motor off.
It is necessary to connect the green and black grounds together if only using the minmium wiring system.
The current stator is 81 watts and will make the horn work correctly without a battery.

Hope this information is helpfull, if more information is needed just ask.

Whizzer OuterBanks,
Quenton
 
Hi , I think this is the post that I was referring to. Post was buy Quenton Guenther,one of the most knowledgeable Whizzer experts on this forum. Hope this is helpful.

Whizzer wiring

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After hundreds of requests I agreed to supply a lot of information on the wiring and wiring harness.
Whizzer has offered several different versions of the harness, but the basics remain the same. Often wire colors are changed by one of their vendors, but is usually exchanged with a similar color.
The most common problem is the loss of grounds or the misunderstanding of the 2 ground system. All "black" wires are ground. All "dark green" wires are ground. In order for the motor to fire only a few items are needed. If the battery isn't used [to smooth out the current] several items won't function correctly. The ignition circuit only needs a Coil, CDI, alternator [stator], and the ignition sensor to power the motor. If you use a battery and don't use the AC/DC & regulator modules, the battery will most likely not survive. The horn won't work correctly without the battery. The turn signals & brake light will cause the lights to operate poorly without the battery. Most Whizzer owners leave the key switch on and run the battery down. If the battery is completly down, the motor most likely will not charge the batter up full, and will require charging with a small battery charger. If the ground on the coil is missing the plug will not fire. If the ground on the CDI is missing the plug will not fire. If the kill switch is shorted to the handlebars the plug will not fire. The horn is activated by attaching a ground to the horn [via the horn button]. The key switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground when in the off position. The kill switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground in the off position. The ignition switch should be used when a battery is used with the complete haness, becuse it allows the lights to work off the battery when the motor isn't running. All orange and light blue wires are for the turn signals. Green wires with a red stripe are usually the brake light system [however I have seen green with a yellow strip used]. If the turn signals don't flash it is most likely in the switch on the left handlebar needs cleaned. Tail light bulbs burn out often if ridden on a bumpy road. the most commonly replaced parts are the tail light bulb, the headlight bulb [special], turn signal flasher, and the coil [broken spark plug cap or wire pulled out of coil body]. Most people that modify the harness have problems with the ground circuits. I have found it easier to hide the extra wires as opposed to removing them. The later wiring harness has a ground circuit in the rear light plug [motor won't fire unless the rear of the harness is plugged in. The following items have a ground... coil [green wire is the ground], CDI [black wire is the ground], regulator [black wire is the ground], AC/DC relay [black wire is the ground] key switch [yellow wire with a red stripe is ground] kill switch [green wire is the ground] battery [black wire is the ground]. The gray wire on the horn is 12V [with motor running or with battery] The horn, flasher, and brake light switches aren't grounded. The 3 wires for the front head light are ground [black wire], and the other 2 are for high and low beam [controlled from the left control assembly. the 3 wires for the tail ight are ground [black wire], tail ight [yellow], and brake light [usually light green with a red stripe]. There are many extra yellow and black wires in the harness to power the guage lights [speedometer & tachometer]. If the fuse is blown the motor will most likely still run, but the lights won't work with the motor off.
It is necessary to connect the green and black grounds together if only using the minmium wiring system.
The current stator is 81 watts and will make the horn work correctly without a battery.

Hope this information is helpfull, if more information is needed just ask.

Whizzer OuterBanks,
Quenton


yea i read all that... thats how i got the thing even to spark... but now its weak...
 
ngk cr7eix is the best plug you can run . Bill Green

should i be running this plug in the WC1?? right now it is a Denso w20fp-u?? could the plug be the problem?
 
spun the motor over with an electric drill, no plug in it and measured AC off of the stator (Blk-Red Wire and White Wire), 21V AC.... should be more?
 
Hi 805moparkid,

Enjoyed our Whizzer talk.

The CR7XEIX is for the later NE motor. The 1999 ~ 2002 used a 14 MM sparkplug.

I use Autolite #275 in the 14 MM version head.

Black w/ red stripe wire should check approx. 500 ohms to ground [must be unpluged to test]. White & yellow wires are approx. 1.5 ~ 2 ohms to ground and have nothing to do with the ignition, but supply AC for lights & charging battery.

Let me know how it work out.

Have fun,
 
well the above man, Quenton lead me to the right path of checking the stator. so before i even pulled off the "flywheel" i rocked it back and forth and could see the stator moving around to!

so i finally got off the flywheel, and the stator was in the flywheel instead of being bolted to the block! as i now find out is a common problem with these because they dont use lock-tite to keep them secure!

so after a good cleaning with Electrical Cleaner i assembled the stator back onto the block with lock-tite, installed the flywheel and nessary conectors again it it fired right up after sitting for 2 yrs!

so here are some pics!

and a vid

Again Thx Quenton!! AKA Dr. Whizzer!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D7PvVIBAA8
 

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