Tires Good Tires That Turned Bad On Me - Pics

tires have changed a bit

The problem I have had with curtain tires on older rims is that the specks for the rim on a hook bead tires have changed. Now I noticed this on a much older rim and a new tire but the same holds true I think.

If you take the tire off the rim there should be a ridge that goes around the inside of the rim. this is known as a "hook bead" rim If your rim does not have these "hooks" the modern mountain tire will blow off. The same thing happened with road bike tires a few years earlier. I can't say for sure if this is the case but that might well be the problem with your rim.

mike
 
All tires are not created equal. Same with rims as well.

Keep in mind when putting your tire on the rim, "Is this just way easier than it usually is?"

I don't know for certain, but it does seem like they stretch - but also, it could just be the slight margin of error between the rim and the tire. If both are working against each other and you just happen to have a rim that's a little bit smaller and a tire that's a little bit bigger, you're going to have some issues.

If it seems to be a particular rim in question of being the culprit, you can always get tires with a wire bead, they're crazy hard to get off and on, but worth it once it's there, cause you know it's not just gonna pop off on ya.
 
Yes, you have encountered a common problem that is simply solved.

Tires made for 26" that are marked in fractional sizes (26" x 1 1/2, 1 3/8, etc) are for the non-hooked rims such as found on on old 1970's 10 speeds. Millions of these bikes abound in cities, backyards, and scrap heaps everywhere.

Tires made for 26" that are marked in decimal sizes (26" x 1.5, 1.95, 2.1, 2.25) are the NEW mountain bike size, and are what is sold on mtb and beach cruisers all over USA now except possibly the cheapest or old-stock dept bikes such as K-mart or Toys R Us.

When changing tires on the new style rim, take care not to stretch the bead (some are not made of metal wire anymore). The tire can go over the rim easily by pressing the bead into the center channel of rim opposite the point you are working on.

Take care to inflate to a low pressure and check tire for proper seating before fully inflating and riding.

The problem I have had with curtain tires on older rims is that the specks for the rim on a hook bead tires have changed. Now I noticed this on a much older rim and a new tire but the same holds true I think.

If you take the tire off the rim there should be a ridge that goes around the inside of the rim. this is known as a "hook bead" rim If your rim does not have these "hooks" the modern mountain tire will blow off. The same thing happened with road bike tires a few years earlier. I can't say for sure if this is the case but that might well be the problem with your rim.

mike
 
... Tires made for 26" that are marked in fractional sizes (26" x 1 1/2, 1 3/8, etc) are for the non-hooked rims such as found on on old 1970's 10 speeds. Millions of these bikes abound in cities, backyards, and scrap heaps everywhere.

Tires made for 26" that are marked in decimal sizes (26" x 1.5, 1.95, 2.1, 2.25) are the NEW mountain bike size, and are what is sold on mtb and beach cruisers all over USA now except possibly the cheapest or old-stock dept bikes such as K-mart or Toys R Us...
Exactly. Bike tires are the case where 2.125 does NOT equal 2-1/8:eek:
 
My Mongoose Paver when it was new blew the tires out the same way. I contacted Mongoose and after a few questions they replaced the tires, tubes, and gave me a new back rim that was twisted when the tube blew. One of the questions she asked was weither I used a compressor or a bike pump. I lied and said a bike pump:unsure: Turns out you need to use a bike pump so that doesn't happen. Inflating the tires too fast will cause them not to seat right. I tried the new tires from Mongoose. They didn't work either:-/ Ended up getting 2 Duro BulletProof tires off of eBay and have been very happy with them. They do not expand raidally due to the polyurethane anti-puncture belt under the tread.

With the Mongoose I think that WalMart and the Chinese came up with the idea of lowering the cost of manufacture by shrinking the rim a bit. You can tell because the brake pad is at the bottom of the adjusting slot instead of in the middle where it should be.
 
re: smaller rim to save cost.

Its possible, but more likely that if it was deliberate, it was to speed installation of the tires so the bikes could be assembled more quickly.

Still, I wouldn't put it past the Chinese to skimp anywhere possible on low end goods. There have been a rash of tainted food products, baby toys, dog food, milk, etc, from that country in the last couple years even.

The event of a brake pad aligning at the bottom of its adjustment range can be due to many things, from loose tolerances in where the dropouts are placed in the frame design, where the bosses are welded on, and if different dropouts were substituted when others were lacking.

I use an electric 12v air compressor all the time and have not had any problems with damaged tires from it, but I always partially inflate the tube (just enough to take shape) and seat my tires well by hand before inflating. These little pumps are $10 at dollar stores and dept. stores. Its great for bike trips, with multiple friends, so we can get going quickly.

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http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pu..._o9h75uLOHfQZnapTDM-MEYnmQUT1sxLCXSjBEZSxIREA
 
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advantage of having a tyre station on the property as a kid... i learnt all this :)

the talc powder is the best advice(yes, cornstarch works but if it gets wet....yuk!), coupled with either; slow gradual inflation while "kneading" the tyre so it beads properly, or using a compressor, going to 10-15 psi, deflating, kneading, reinflate, repeating if necessary... watch that rim-line!

some air in a new tube helps it lie properly within the tyre carcasse... and prevents it from pinching.

my only failures have been from sidewalls splitting, and overheating... 140psi in a 27" out in the sun on a 40 degree day :lol and the odd rim collapsing

interesting sidenote...i must have some of the only 18", 22" and even a 28" rims left...besides maybe in the developing countries :) and even at 40 years plus in age, they hold air and id trust em for riding on....

one old dog i know always recommended buying tyres well in advance. let them harden up a bit, so they last longer... and a mix of soap and glycerine on the siddewalls keeps em nice :)
 
I think if you are building your own frame or making a "chopper" motor bike, it might be fun to use odd sizes, especially if you like the tall skinny front & fat small rear tire combination.

overkill-bicycle-chopper.jpg
http://www.recyclart.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/overkill-bicycle-chopper.jpg

18" are not as common, but can still be easily found.
Check with a vendor before buying to make sure they are the same measurement standard. 18" seems to be used on BMX Freestyle bikes and some recumbents. 22" seems to be used for some electric bikes. I've never seen one 22" bicycle tire in person.
28" could refer casually to 700c, which is ubiquitous, or to 28" old style. I think the Russian Bike Engines thread went over how a lot of industrial bikes used them. www.niagaracycle.com has lots of rims and tires

http://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php?cPath=516_131
-12 1/2" Tires
-14" Tires
-16" Tires
-18" Tires
-20" Tires
-22" Tires
-24" Tires
-26" Tires
-27" Tires
-28" Tires
-29" Tires
-650 Tires
-700 Tires
-Scooter Tires
-Sew Up, Tubular, and Tubeless T
-Snow Tires
-Wheelchair Tires


Fit bike co 2.1 BMX street tire, $20
http://cgi.ebay.com/FIT-BIKE-CO-18-...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5a3f2254
 
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