Battery Box

[RedBaronX]

OR... better still... finger joint the upright corners, lid on top- battery is harnessed to quick connect OUTSIDE the box so you only have to pull connection and hook to charger. Lid is only used to remove battery, and you have to remove box to do that. Your call.
the Old Sgt.

I definitely would not want you to start building it until I know for sure how it's going to fit on the bike!

The way that it HAS to be done is that the box is mounted "permanently" to the frame and the battery is easy to remove from the box because the bike has to live outside and I live on the second floor... No garage, no outdoor outlets (and it's too far to run an extension cord...). The battery HAS to be removed from the bike to recharge it. And since my total commute is two hours, I will want to recharge the battery every night.

I want the connections inside the box because there are going to be a LOT of wires-- turn signals front and back, brakes, horn, tail light, and headlight. There are also going to be a couple flasher relays (I'm thinking of making the brake light flash) I'm going to sheath the wires with asphalt cloth wire loom to keep everything tidy... having the wires held in place by running to and connecting to the mounted box will keep everything in place.

I can hinge it myself-- I might end up going with two clasps or maybe even some sort of leather belt that wraps around the circumference to hold the lid on. Haven't decided, so I want to leave my options open on that.

Bike will be here tomorrow, and I can figure out fit and dimensions and all that.

 

[RedBaronX]

OK... the absolute dimensions of the battery are: 2 5/8" x 6" x3 7/8". I can turn the battery any which way to make it fit the frame.

The space between the two top bars with the tank in place is JUST over 3". The tank is a 1.75 gallon Whizzer tank that has a deeper channel than the stock 3/4 gallon tanks. Since the channel is also WIDER than the top bar, it would be best to add some sort of space filler-- PVC pipe or something. That will raise the tank up maybe another 1/8" or 1/4". But that's going to mean the boards for those two sides of the box can only collectively be about a half inch...

Now, I've seen plywood that thin... I have something that a friend made that has a piece of nine layer plywood in it's construction, and it's only 1/4" inch. It's "aviation plywood." Not something that your average Home Depot has.

A piece of plywood that thin is probably too thin to do finger joints... maybe, I don't know. Maybe it isn't. But I'm going to assume that this project will be best with butt joints after all, which I can do. A very quick google search brought up a place that has 2'x2' 1/4" sheets for as little as $10. That's not the nine layer stuff my friend used to have, but it's a higher grade than hardware store stuff.

 

[Sgt. Howard]

Actually, I've done figerjoints in less wood than 1/4"... but that WOULD run extra, and for the task at hand might not be sturdy enough. Pity. I wound up mounting mine on the top of the backframe just behind the seat and in front of the mount for my backrack- 45 degrees off the perpendicular, but I'll survive. Put on brass corner guards as well- looks spiff. For 1/4" wood, I would epoxy them on as you will not find hardware that will mount them without perfing the battery. Now just waiting for Pirate Cycles to finish their inventory so's I can buy that sprocket mount. That's thursday...
the Old Sgt.

 

[samuari86]

if you do your homework some leds lights can go up to 18v or more,now if you go and see the led lights i am using i got min on 9v,and i am using three of them. now the led lights that i using is for some ones head for like work or soming and they only use three AAAs batterys and that comes out to 4.5v's. so good lock

 

[RedBaronX]

I'm only going to use the 1/4" on the two sides I absolutely have to-- using normal dimensional lumber for the other sides will maximize gluing surface and still give me some room for fasteners. Epoxy is a must-- I am the epoxy queen!

Because of the tight fit between bottom bar and gas tank, it will only need to really be held in place with a couple struts along the bottom of the box which will straddle the bottom Top Bar. These will also give the box more stability and strength. Brass corners are definitely on the menu as well.

I've already started perusing the 'net for vintage battery logos for the sides of the box. Even though you won't be building the box for me, you helped me decide what I want it to look like-- stained instead of painted, with the logos on the sides!

 

[samuari86]

ok i didnt read all the post so,ok sounds good!

 

[RedBaronX]

ok i didnt read all the post so,ok sounds good!

yeah this is less about the guts of the system, and more about where to put those guts...

 

[Sgt. Howard]

Just got mine up and working- put a switch in the back of the headlight and now debating if this will drive a small taillight as well- hard to say...
Having mounted the silly thing where I've got it, I realise that wood can do some pretty snazzy things on these toys. I've been arguing with myself about panniers on this bad boy- started with ammo cans but found them too heavy, leather too pricey and nylon too... nylon... I know it's pure neurosis, but I want this thing to be retro. Two matching wood boxes off the back rack ought to do the trick, useing 3/16th oak veneer, gorilla glue and alder stringer, brass corners, edges, hinges and latches, honey oak stain with verathane spar varnish... ought to do a logo of sorts... we'll see-
the Old Sgt.

 

[RedBaronX]

at some point I will make leather saddle bags, but that's too much money for something that I don't NEED right now. The modified army surplus canvas bags I used work quite nicely for now.

and yeah, nylon is too... nylon.

 

[Sgt. Howard]

Having acquired a pseudo 'Soviet' cav uniform, I am saving the OD canvass medic bag for the next build which will be of a military bearing in matching color- with the red cross removed. Not sure exactly WHAT the application might be, but it will draw attention in a 4th of July parade... assuming I don't get lynched... meanwhile, would you appreciate a VERY convincing LUCAS ELECTRICAL label that includes "The Prince of Darkness" as part of the logo? Seriousely- saw the design on the net, poor quality, redesigned on Broderbund which can only go to somebody that HAS Broderbund... but shoot me yer snailmail and I'll send you a sheet gratis.
Interested?
the Old Sgt.