Finishing Motor Kit - Noob could use advice

If you took the long thing you referred to, and bent it around your chainstay, you would have a clamp. :D
 
One thing to the next I tell ya.

Lets see - Wiring redone, soldered and shrink wrapped. Coaster brake taken care of.




Now I go to set up the chains and take off the plate to access the engines sprocket.

2 out of 3 bolts come off fine.

1 is stuck in there like excalibur. It's not coming out.

So I had to drill out the 3rd bolt. Not fun.

There is a reason these kits are cheap ... Because they are cheap.

So far my kit has been missing a gasket for the gas tank, came with a bolt stuck in stone - and I'm beginning to wonder about my throttle.



Left to go:

Shorten chains (Had to buy a chain breaker tool)

Throttle and clutch cables.

Install front brake kit (have the parts now)


So I guess its coming to a completion ... Although I am currently frustrated with the quality.
 
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One thing to the next I tell ya.

Lets see - Wiring redone, soldered and shrink wrapped. Coaster brake taken care of.




Now I go to set up the chains and take off the plate to access the engines sprocket.

2 out of 3 bolts come off fine.

1 is stuck in there like excalibur. It's not coming out.

So I had to drill out the 3rd bolt. Not fun.

There is a reason these kits are cheap ... Because they are cheap.

So far my kit has been missing a gasket for the gas tank, came with a bolt stuck in stone - and I'm beginning to wonder about my throttle.



Left to go:

Shorten chains (Had to buy a chain breaker tool)

Throttle and clutch cables.

Install front brake kit (have the parts now)


So I guess its coming to a completion ... Although I am currently frustrated with the quality.

really, you don't even need to take that side cover off to get the chain around the sprocket.
if you feed one end of the chain in and onto the sprocket from the top, you can use a screwdriver to rotate the sprocket forward (with the clutch disengaged). rotating the sprocket will pull the chain around and out the bottom. then you can just pull the chain through with your hand until you have the end where you want it to put on the master link.

The peice for the throttle is a small pin and it should be molded into the the throttle handle itself. when you take the 2 parts apart that wrap around your handlebars (by removing the 2 screws that hold it together), the top part should have a very small steel pin molded in it. you need to drill a hole in the handlebars for this pin to sit into. when you put the 2 peices back together the pin will go into the hole you drilled and lock the throttle handle to the handlebars.

a chain breaker is a good tool to have but it isn't necessary. you can grind the heads off the rivits that hold the chan together and punch them out. but, you have to have a grinder or a dremel tool with a grinding disk.
 
The peice for the throttle is a small pin and it should be molded into the the throttle handle itself. when you take the 2 parts apart that wrap around your handlebars (by removing the 2 screws that hold it together), the top part should have a very small steel pin molded in it. you need to drill a hole in the handlebars for this pin to sit into. when you put the 2 peices back together the pin will go into the hole you drilled and lock the throttle handle to the handlebars.

a chain breaker is a good tool to have but it isn't necessary. you can grind the heads off the rivits that hold the chan together and punch them out. but, you have to have a grinder or a dremel tool with a grinding disk.

Not good. Don't have the pin molded in the handle. I'll take a pic of what I have. :eek:

* Keep in mind though that my throttle/kill switch are separate parts - they're not the integrated style.


I have both - Although the chain breaker cost me $9 - I'll keep it around so I don't have to break out my discs and send sparks everywhere. :geek:
 
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