Carb connector ring broke

ahhhh, a reducer.... bit of hose pipe works ok, or even a few wraps of electrical tape... be prepared to replace it occasionally.

umskies...

if you have access to a lathe... :) piecea****!

all nylon, regardless of manufacturer, should be BOILED in water for a half hour or so... keeps it flexible..ish :) (RC car tip, stop replacing them nylon gears!)
 
Thanks for the quick reply Al. I guess I will buy a few replacements from the ebay site you posted. Now to determine the correct inner and outer dimensions.
It might be cheaper to just buy an NT carb replacement, assuming they don't need an reducer. Will probably do both, I was just learning how to make the cns v2 run good.
 
Thanks for the quick reply Al. I guess I will buy a few replacements from the ebay site you posted. Now to determine the correct inner and outer dimensions.
It might be cheaper to just buy an NT carb replacement, assuming they don't need an reducer. Will probably do both, I was just learning how to make the cns v2 run good.

NT carb with a stock aluminum intake doesn't use the bushing.
 
red air cleaner carb

:poop:well i thought every one was nuts but my new carb had a melt down on the reducer also one thing i noticed is these new grubees run a little hotter than the older ones this could be the problem lowes here i come if i come up with something ill let all know:unsure:
 
What up. My old 09 skyhawk did'nt have plastic reducer was old model.. My new skyhawk has the CNS carb. reducer still in one piece. One issue I am having is when driving I can only crack throttle a litttle or it boggs down and loses power.. Idol is good though. Whats the dealio. not even 1 mile on motor,maby it needs to be broke in longer. any ideas.
 
I had the same thing I think. The nylon ring {plastic looking thing} that goes on the inside of the carb against the black o ring with a slot in it broke when I was trying to get rid of an air leak. Couldn't find one. So neccesity being the mother, took a hack saw blade and folded aluminum foil around it about 6 times and pulled out the blade. Then I put the plastic uh nylon piece on the intake pipe and wraped my foil strap around it. Had to take about wrap and half to fit inside carb. Pushed it in tight to o ring and tightened clamping screw. Stopped air leak and holds nylon piece together. Been riding for about 2 weeks now (everyday to work about 8 miles round trip) no problems. No more bog either.
 
I still don't know what to do! I can't figure out the size of the nylon piece, and electrical tape doesn't work. What should I do at this point?
 
Use a piece of aluminum foil folded over several times making the strip about the same width as the nylon ring. Now take the strip and mold it around the pieces of the broken nylon ring. You should now have a new spacer, nylon inside aluminum over. Gently place nylon/aluminum spacer inside carp. Fit over the end of head intake and push tight to the o-ring. Push and tighten at the same time yields best results for no air leaks. My nylon piece was in three pieces and this has been working for about a month now and got rid of my bogging at high end. Good Luck.

Necessity is the mother of invention.
 
Pipe

Got rid of plastic and now using copper pipe with reducer and Hi temp hose and working good. JB weld is a good idea to avoid air leaks.
 
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