Introduction from the Lone Star State

I stand corrected. According to this site, the BikeBug friction motors are made here.
http://www.bikebug.net/

Hey Wheelbender:

Thanks for the information - I had not seen that before. Houston is only a few hours away, so I could probably drive down there and purchase the motor easier than having one shipped to me.

I am not really excited about the friction type wheel roller design, but might consider it in my next build. It does look like it would be an easier install.

For the time being, I will "play with" the chain driven stuff because it is more akin my current activities. Due to being an "old school" guy - I don't quickly warm up to some of the newer products.

Heck ... I still use some hand tools that are older than I am.

Old Skool
 
If the bikebug motor is, in fact American made, I may be willing to remove the roller and rig a frame mount with a chain or belt drive. You have to do that with a Briggs.
 
If the bikebug motor is, in fact American made, I may be willing to remove the roller and rig a frame mount with a chain or belt drive. You have to do that with a Briggs.

Yeah, that is a thought. It might require a wider pedal shaft and could actually be a "fun" project. Chances are, the quality of the motor (and assessories) are much better than what I have previously received.

I have already decided that my next build will NOT be a replay of the existing one. Looking back at some of the very early gasoline motors and platforms from back in the day, it becomes easier to appreciate how they evolved into better designs.

I suspect that the next generation will look back at some of this stuff, laugh and say - "Did they actually ride those things?"

Old Skool
 
You may have to be carfull when twisting out the old china plug lead, it can snap like a piece of licorice stick.
If it does, I used a old small screwdriver, ground the end to a sharp point, and thin enoung to fit, so as to chip away at the bit still stuck in the CDI. You will see a screw, centred inside the CDI part where the lead screws in. That screw is actual a PK gutter screw. Try to not put any side force on that screw, but conentrate mostly at the old lead's insulation with the sharp pointy end of the modified screwdriver.

They think they ( manufacturers ) are doing us a favor by sticking a low quality plug lead in the CDI when new.

No, it's providing a CDI with low quality copper plug lead, inhibiting the engine's maximum potential eactly where it counts. SpArK!
 
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You may have to be carfull when twisting out the old china plug lead, it can snap like a piece of licorice stick.
If it does, I used a old small screwdriver, ground the end to a sharp point, and thin enoung to fit, so as to chip away at the bit still stuck in the CDI. You will see a screw, centred inside the CDI part where the lead screws in. That screw is actual a PK gutter screw. Try to not put any side force on that screw, but conentrate mostly at the old lead's insulation with the sharp pointy end of the modified screwdriver.

They think they ( manufacturers ) are doing us a favor by sticking a low quality plug lead in the CDI when new.

No, it's providing a CDI with low quality copper plug lead, inhibiting the engine's maximum potential eactly where it counts. SpArK!

Thanks ... good information!

I had intended to change the spark plug wire, when I replaced the shoddy spark plug cap at the end of the wire, but after twisting on the CDI end of the wire for a while, I changed my mind. I had reached the point of "breaking something", so I just left the old wire in the module.

None of the auto parts stores around here have any replacement spark plug wire end caps, so I had a brainstorm and stopped at a local lawn and garden store and found one rather quickly. Heck, it is designed more like a lawn mower part than a car part, anyway. It was a quality part and any easy installation.

I keep plenty of "sharp instruments" in my shop and might have used an ice pick or one of my awls, before I ground down the screwdriver. Copper wire is a good conducter, so maybe I won't have any other problems with that.

The next comment probably deserves a new string, but getting the CNS carburetor to operate properly was a very challenging chore. It was obvious that the thing was much too lean, the motor would not idlle, and would only run when the choke was applied. I tweaked both adjustment screws until I was blue in the face - with little success.

When I took the carb apart to reset the needle, I discovered that the carb had no gasket on the top throttle plate. I thought to myself - that can't be right? The thing is sucking air around that plate, which opens into the throat of the carb.

Long story short - I made me a little gasket, applied it, and the little CNS carb worked much better. Maybe it wasn't intended to have a gasket, but it sure works better with one!

I have read all of the posts on the CNS carb issues and had never seen that remedy addressed ... so I will throw it in for free.

Old Skool
 
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