Engine Trouble New Rider Bike Will Not Go Some Help Please!!

ok carb slide. the brackets that came with the kit do not fit the frames tube ok. I have had to seal the pit cock with seal all since it was leaking but thats not a problem anymore. cause the treades did not fit the gas tank. i had the black box there wired to the kill switch. i have enough mech exp with cars a trucks that all i need is a few suggestions as to what you are saying here after all i have rebulit a iroc tranny and been though enough training, to not run a bike like the pics. i mean it not like i just got off the bike and took some pics. com on man. the two wires hanging from the engine are suppose to be for a head light, and the black box going to the spark plug have a blue and black wire both for the kill switch, it not related to why the bike will not go. the box was wired to the yellow button,(kill switch) but didn't matter the bike would still not go.

ever heard of making a longer strap for the gastank?
you come on here asking for help then get your panties in a knot because YOU hooked it up wrong and it wont run.
GROW up if you want some help.
If you were that good of a wrench your bike would run... guess what bud... it don't so your not that good.
drop your attitude and you might just learn how to make the motor run.

learn to use the SEARCH on this site everything you asked has been covered many times.
 
I Am Sorry. Truth Is I Do Not Know All There Is To Know About Everything. And I Do Not Have Much Experience In Motorized Bike Wiring, Just Some Here And There. It Just Sounded Like The Guy Was Talkin Down To Me And Knocking Me It Russeled My Tail Feather A Bit. I Just Took The Advice Wrong And I Really Do Appreciated The Advice And Pics From You Guys. I Will Make My Bike The Safest And Soundest Stingray I Possibly Can. I Truly Look Forward To This New Hobby And Am Glad To See Others Have The Same Kinda Passion For An Inexpensive Way To Cruise And Enjoy The Roads. Thks Again And All Respects.
 
It Seemed That Simply Connect The Wires Together From The Engine To The Box, However Boygofast Only Said Something About A Kill Switch And Headlight, Then I Read If Not Hooking Up Headlight Leave Engine Wires Alone. It Just Did'nt Make Any Sense So I Followed And This Is Why It's Not Running. I Sent An Email For A Instructional Manual But Go No Response From Boygofast On Ebay. Then After I Put The Bike All Together I Read On Here To Not Deal With These Guys, They Do Not Stand Behind There Products. Oh Yeah Live And Learn. U Know.
 
Rallen
the link i posted will work with that motor that is the manual for the HT motors
all the same basic design just couple differnt makers
BOYGOSLOW
is just a drop shipper he does nothing more than order them then ship them out
the WHITE wire is used for lights under 3 watts total power
white is positive engine case is ground.
there are no headlights that i have been able to find that are 3 watts or less
@ 6 volts


Best bet will be to build your own light setup using a rechargeable 12 volt SLA deep cycle battery using LED lightbulbs
i have no problem helping you **** may learn new stuff by helping ya.
 
white is alternating. high current low voltage.

blue is alternating, low current, high voltage.

black is earth.

meh :) my quarters worth :)

dont use white!


(led's will run at 3 volts and produce 1 watt...which is actually really bright...but they need a rectifier, a regulator...oh lord, complexity sets in!)
 
white is alternating. high current low voltage.

blue is alternating, low current, high voltage.

black is earth.

meh :) my quarters worth :)

dont use white!


(led's will run at 3 volts and produce 1 watt...which is actually really bright...but they need a rectifier, a regulator...oh lord, complexity sets in!)

based on my research the reliability of running any lights of the ht motors is iffy at best
another point is getting a ht to power lights is beyond the relm of the noob without a degree in a related field...lol
just using a rechargeable battery switches and leds makes it so much more reliable and simple... OMHO
12 volt is alot easier to find than 6 volt LEDs
use EBAY for the leds...much cheaper than a local store
 
Bike Runs Good Thks

Thks For The Helpful Input Man. Spend The Whole Night, Fixing The Stingray Before An Early Morning Test Spin. Good New It Tops Out At About 35 Mph. Didn't Take It Out On The Roads Yet Just Stayed Close To Home. The Gas Tank Is Solidly Mounted Now Took Some Fabricating But It Will Not Move. Apparent The High Voltage Wire Is Tied Into The Cdi And The Ground Is Also Tied In To The Coil. I Also Moved The Fender So It Now Has Two Bolts Holding It Together. Before I Only Had The One Bolt Holding The Fender On To The Frame Cause I Wanted The Brake Light To Be Visible. But Again Bro Sorry For The Stubborn Head Of Mine. And Thks Cause Now It Runs. And I'm :d
 

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cool...see all you need to do is slow down a bit and take your time.
Now that it's running, you shoudl take some more time and clean up everything so it doesn't look so quickly thrown together (in my opinion).
I'm sorry but when i build something, I take my time and make sure that it looks as clean as possible. One thing i can't stand to see is wires hanging all over the place and part bolted on that don't look like they belong where they are.
The gas tank looks goofy where you have it mounted, but again that's just my opinion.
it's your bike, build it how you want, but just make sure that it's safe.

How do you know that it topped out at 35 mph? are you trusting that speedo that you have on it?
what size rear sprocket do you have on it?
my chopper has a 41 tooth on it, modified exhaust, re-jetted and tuned carb and a high flow air filter, and i'm getting an honest 32 mph top speed.
I just find it hard to beleive that you are getting an honest 35 mph from an untuned carb, stock exhaust and probably a 44 tooth rear sprocket.
if you want som ereal speed, the best thing to do is drop down to a 36 tooth or smaller rear sprocket.
a 44 tooth sprocket on a 20" rim is the same as like a 56 tooth sprocket on a 26" rim.
these kits were designed and geared to be used on bikes with taller wheels. the smaller the rear wheel, or bigger the rear sprocket, the less top speed you will get.
there is a ton to know about gear ratios and wheel sizes if you are looking for speed or low end torque.
 
Rallen

ditch that POS chain that came with your kit and get a good bmx chain from the local bike shop. Caused me more headaches with popped/broken links. Replaced it with a KMC chain and not had a problem since. Maybe one of the chopper guys has a better way to mount your tank so it not so close to the seat. Grab some splitloom from your local autoparts store to clean up the wiring a bit and it will also protect the wires.

Break in for these motors is at least a gallon at mix ratio of 16 to 1 half throttle and no more than 30 minutes with at least a hour inbetween
 
OCC's

Hey rallen,
I've built 10 or 12 of the OCC choppers and there's a couple things you need to look out for. #1 is that seat post. This bike was made for 80lb kids to ride at max 10mph, Not a 160lb dude at 30mph. The extra weight and bounce will most likely snap the post off at the weld. That will NOT be a lot of fun at 30mph. I suggest welding in a brace or a different seat altogether. #2 is the frame. I admit I was way too big for this bike (230lbs) but I found the frame metal on these to be REAL thin. I've had to weld back together more than one of these frames becouse of stress breaks. If you're only 120lbs tops then you might get by with this frame. I'm only trying to warn you of what "could" happen, Not what will happen. I just want everyone to be as safe as possible.
Thanks,
Big Red.
 

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