Does anybody make a pusher for resale?

ollicat

Member
Local time
7:59 AM
Joined
Jul 5, 2008
Messages
99
Location
Collierville, TN
I really like this idea of a pusher, but have absolutely no ability or knowledge on how to make one. Nor do I have the ability to weld. Does anyone know if somebody makes one for resale? I haven't been able to find any through a google search.
 
I'm gonna teach you something an artist told me a couple months back (a revelation that children learn in drawing books)....

ALL CIRCLES ARE SQUARES!

You can take any name, draw out 'x' number of squares, where x is the number of characters in that given name..... then you'll start to see my point.

Only two extra lines turn a square into an "S".
Only two extra lines turn a square into a "P".
Only two extra lines turn a square into an "A".
Only two extra lines turn a square into an "R".
Only three extra lines turn a square into an "K".
Only three extra lines turn a square into a "Y".

Get the idea???

Everything is from very, very, VERY simple building blocks.

A trailer pusher is made out of...

- 1 pipe
- 1 connecting bracket that will fit ~1" [or so] seat posts
- 1 platform
- 1 wheel w/ freewheel
- 1 engine
- 1 gearbox
- 1 chain
- 1 extra long throttle cable.

Presuming you already factored in the cost of the engine, gearbox, & chain, you're left with....

- 1 pipe
- 1 connecting bracket that will fit ~1" [or so] seat posts
- 1 platform
- 1 wheel w/ freewheel
- 1 extra long throttle cable.

Make sure you get good quality metal, like steel. Matching steel pipe to a steel connecting bracket for the seat post would make for a nice & easy welding project... and the steel platform. The other two items, you'll just have to buy.... but the connector, pipe, & platform could all be found at scrap yards, junk yards, etc. A welding or machine shop could very likely have those materials ready, waiting for somebody like you to place an order.

You'd be surprised how cheap welding can be if you prep it all yourself. Make sure everything is "disassembled" if necessary and easily accessible from "above". Get a small angle grinder and rough up some surfaces on the pipe & platform. Then, when you bring it to the welder, you just ask him for his labor rate.... then say you'll only be needing him for about 45 seconds. ;)

I actually just went to a machine shop today that is going to be making me a much more durable "dual freewheel hub" that will never break in my lifetime. Took it too him just to get a quote. Kinda talked them about how the original was designed from 3 separate pieces... and how it might be easier and more durable if it were just made from one piece of steel (1 square :cool:). Cost is estimated $240. But the value to me is priceless.

Welder fixed my cracked frame in a super funky spot above my bottom bracket, and even installed extra 1" wide x 1/4" thick aluminum support rails... all for just $50. Of course, I had to take out the gas, crank, bearings, and buy the 1/4" thick aluminum strips (of which I had no problem of letting him keep the excess). But these service prices are not unreasonable if you do what you CAN.

Another example.... I can't TRUE a rim. But I *can* LACE a rim. Which one is more expensive? Lacing! Why? Because it's time consuming, not because it involves skill! Lacing is for pip-squeaks. Truing is for the pros.

Catch my drift?? BUILDING BLOCKS!!
 
Last edited:
Staton-inc sells a drive kit that can be attached to a trail-a-bike. pictured below:

2 pusher.JPG 1.ThePUSHER.JPG
http://www.staton-inc.com/photo_gallery.asp?category=6

Sparky's advice hits a grndslm!!!

Our (your) Local mechanics. machinists & welders seem to love our odd little bike projects & are willing to lend a hand at super reasonable rates.
Befriend the local pros.



fun jab @ sparky...hehehe
sparky said:
Only two extra lines turn a square into an "S".
Only two extra lines turn a square into a "P".
Only two extra lines turn a square into an "A".
Only two extra lines turn a square into an "R".
Only three extra lines turn a square into an "K".
Only three extra lines turn a square into a "Y".

Get the idea???
14 extra lines makes sparky a square. :whistle:
 
By far the easiest most capable and least complicated pusher to date is the one I seen on You Tube,search YT for IHARTPIE.I believe it also has the least amount of parts which equates to less maintenance build cost. Don't try to ask the guy in the video who passes himself off as the inventor and builder anything cause he will neither give you an answer (cause he doesnt know) nor will he build one for you.However any competent welder/fabricator can watch the videos and copy the pusher called the MOMO.

Basically you are talking a bent pipe,hitch assembly at seat post,engine plate,engine,chain,bolt and nut for rear wheel and 5" or 6" rear wheel and a throttle cable/kill switch.Mini bike parts stores will have the parts.

You can get a 7 hp Predator engine often on sale at Harbor freight for cheap.Although you may not need 7 hp it doesnt matter cause you dont have to use all 7 horses.

Good luck.
 
Yes, you can get a 7 horse engine on a pusher. Just keep in mind that in many locations, if you're stopped with a bike/pusher that's over 50 cc, they could throw the book at you!

  • Driving a motor vehicle without registration...
  • Driving a MV without insurance...
  • Driving a MV in a bike lane... (depends on where you're caught, obviously...)

While a little over motor like the 79cc HF greyhound might not 'jump out' at the cop, a 7hp motor is a no-brainer...
 
Do y'all think a strong 2 stroke like the Mitsubishi TLE-43 would work for a pusher? What about a Tanaka PF-4000? I like going two stroke and staying under the 50 cc limit to avoid any problems
 
I'm sorry. Pushers drive an already inherently risky sport into the (for me) unacceptable level of risk category.

By the way, I'm an adrenaline junkie.

Look at the mechanics and the physics of the pusher power source. An essentially unregulated flexible joint between the power source and the control mechanisms of the vehicle, and think about what can happen if, say, the throttle cable gets pinched at WOT and the pusher runs away from you. Or you are cornering, hit a bump/pothole and twist the throttle inadvertently, and the pusher shoves your bike sideways out from under you.

Not too mention the countless other accidents that bikes are prone to, virtually all of which are made worse when you add a heavy trailer shoving your hide across the pavement as you struggle to stop.

Look at the design of articulated vehicles where the power source is behind the operators controls - they are virtually all hydraulically or mechanically (or both) damped and limited in the degree of flex to a very limited range. There are excellent reasons for that fact.
 
Last edited:
Look at the mechanics and the physics of the pusher power source. An essentially unregulated flexible joint between the power source and the control mechanisms of the vehicle, and think about what can happen if, say, the throttle cable gets pinched at WOT and the pusher runs away from you.


You could always hit the kill button.

Besides, considering the materials and workmanship of a typical HT 2-stroke motor spinning 5600 RPM directly below your crotch, maybe putting the engine several feet behind you on a trailer isn't such a bad idea afterall. :D
 
Last edited:
Back
Top