Chain size question

JVROOM

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Mar 26, 2012
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78
Location
Atascadero CA
I had one heck of a time solving a tire rub problem on my project, finally got there but I'm still curious about what's the best chain to use? 415 is what seems to fit but as I understand they stretch and are bad news. I ordered a 410 but it does not fit the sprocket's way too small. I ordered a 415 from a bike shop, but it was too short, guess I would've needed two but it was also from China anyway.

I don't want to be suffering from the chain stretch issue, does anyone have any suggestions where to get a good chain?

Thank you so much for your time and consideration sincerely, John:(:(:geek:
 
Thank you for the reply, yes I flipped over the wheel sprocket and a lot more. In the process I wiped out a couple chains the tension adjuster the engine sprocket as well is the wheel sprocket and a rim.

To solve the problem I added a maniac parts sprocket adapter moving it all the way to the wheel motor sprocket, and flipped the wheel sprocket. This is on a coaster brake, next I machined the jam that on the pedal side to half its original thickness to move the wheel farther to the pedal chain side. Then I changed the rear chrome rim to one slightly narrower and change the whitewall tire to one of the slightly different design that allowed for more room. Next by tightening the spokes on the pedal chain drive side I dish the wheel farther away from the motor drive side finally I added a Kipper spring tensioner and all of the above did the trick. So now I'm just trying to make sure I have a good chain. Thank you, John
 
Thank you for the reply, yes I flipped over the wheel sprocket and a lot more. In the process I wiped out a couple chains the tension adjuster the engine sprocket as well is the wheel sprocket and a rim.

To solve the problem I added a maniac parts sprocket adapter moving it all the way to the wheel motor sprocket, and flipped the wheel sprocket. This is on a coaster brake, next I machined the jam that on the pedal side to half its original thickness to move the wheel farther to the pedal chain side. Then I changed the rear chrome rim to one slightly narrower and change the whitewall tire to one of the slightly different design that allowed for more room. Next by tightening the spokes on the pedal chain drive side I dish the wheel farther away from the motor drive side finally I added a Kipper spring tensioner and all of the above did the trick. So now I'm just trying to make sure I have a good chain. Thank you, John

I bought a #41 roller chain from an industrial supply company. It was very strong. But the EZM Q-Matic trans I bought didn't support it. So I used a brand new china 415 I had laying around which (as you said) stretched like a rubber band. Not willing to waste any more time tweaking this and adjusting that I bought a friction kit and haven't worked on my bike mechanically since. Oh and, I met a guy with a chain drive recently, he said he bought a stainless steel chain from a bike shop that doesn't stretch. I didn't check into it, if what he was telling me was true or accurate.

Honda GXH-50: approx 2400 miles (zero problems)
Staton Friction Kit: approx 1200 miles (zero problems)
 
Chain question two things

I would like to know about this friction kit what it is and where to get it.

I also forgot to mention that I think one of the things that help the most was, polishing the drive sprocket. I took the motor sprocket off and dressed it with the Whetstone and a chainsaw file. Before I did it seem like the chain was sticking as it was trying to come off the sprocket. I think this might have been causing the slat back and forth. As I polished the sprocket and then used emery cloth and thousand grit I was surprised at how poorly manufactured it was. Guess just more Chinese junk?:poop:
 
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