Chains 2 stroke chain popping off
- Thread starter DoIt AllPauls
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DoIt AllPauls
Member
After doing all y'all told me to do and nothing fixing it it has to be the chain,
I will be ordering a 415 off ebay today, went to the bike shop they wanted almost $40USD pluse tax for a new chain .
Ebay has them heavy duty for half as much.
I will be ordering a 415 off ebay today, went to the bike shop they wanted almost $40USD pluse tax for a new chain .
Ebay has them heavy duty for half as much.
DoIt AllPauls
Member
The chain was it problem
I got the new chain installed and wow what a difference no more slipping no more popping off .
I was able to put it up for sale this week end and a new member named Tom purchased it for the $175.00 I was asking .
As always your guys rock and as all ways you guys knew what was wrong , and how to fix it thanks
motoredbikes.com and there members are a great bunch of people regardless of what troll bobs says
I got the new chain installed and wow what a difference no more slipping no more popping off .
I was able to put it up for sale this week end and a new member named Tom purchased it for the $175.00 I was asking .
As always your guys rock and as all ways you guys knew what was wrong , and how to fix it thanks
motoredbikes.com and there members are a great bunch of people regardless of what troll bobs says
Fabian
Well-Known Member
Interesting to note that for all of Mr Bob's claims of assistance to others on this forum, and his good standing by those who value him greatly, he not only has "zero" reputation points, but lacks a messianic fan club to back up his claims.
roughrider
Member
Hmmm...
OK brother, I gotta be honest. You SAY it's all straight, true, and tight, but if that were true, you would not be throwing chains.
1. Tight. Really? REALLY? Is it tight in one part of the revolution then loose in another? If so, you have a gear that is either out of round or not mounted concentrically.
2. Alignment. Looking at the chain from the rear, is it really in a PERFECT line? Not even a little itsy bitsy offset?
3. Wobble. No wobbles in the rear gear? Try spinning it with a marker held next to the gear. Does it "kiss" one section and then have a tiny gap?
4. Concentricity. Is it really, REALLY concentric. I suspected this earlier, but here it is again. "Out of round" makes the chain loose, tight, loose, tight. That, combined with a worn chain could cause your trouble.
Bottom line, tight and "true" = no chain throwing. Period.
If all of the above are cool, you have a chain (or gear teeth) that is/are so worn you need to replace one or the other. Looking very, very, VERY closely at the drive gear and the rear gear, do you see any teeth that look chewed up? Bent? That would do it.
BTW, the stock chains on the the newer builds are all 415s. 410s are a touch narrower. I doubt that's your problem. But a really worn chain is just so sloppy it can flop around from side to side even if everything else is OK. That WOULD do it, but even then, only if it were not tight. (And I mean TIGHT.)
Just my 2 cents and what I'd look for if I had your bike to examine. To repeat, "trueness" means three axis: alignment, wobble, and centricity.
Cheers,
Rick
OK brother, I gotta be honest. You SAY it's all straight, true, and tight, but if that were true, you would not be throwing chains.
1. Tight. Really? REALLY? Is it tight in one part of the revolution then loose in another? If so, you have a gear that is either out of round or not mounted concentrically.
2. Alignment. Looking at the chain from the rear, is it really in a PERFECT line? Not even a little itsy bitsy offset?
3. Wobble. No wobbles in the rear gear? Try spinning it with a marker held next to the gear. Does it "kiss" one section and then have a tiny gap?
4. Concentricity. Is it really, REALLY concentric. I suspected this earlier, but here it is again. "Out of round" makes the chain loose, tight, loose, tight. That, combined with a worn chain could cause your trouble.
Bottom line, tight and "true" = no chain throwing. Period.
If all of the above are cool, you have a chain (or gear teeth) that is/are so worn you need to replace one or the other. Looking very, very, VERY closely at the drive gear and the rear gear, do you see any teeth that look chewed up? Bent? That would do it.
BTW, the stock chains on the the newer builds are all 415s. 410s are a touch narrower. I doubt that's your problem. But a really worn chain is just so sloppy it can flop around from side to side even if everything else is OK. That WOULD do it, but even then, only if it were not tight. (And I mean TIGHT.)
Just my 2 cents and what I'd look for if I had your bike to examine. To repeat, "trueness" means three axis: alignment, wobble, and centricity.
Cheers,
Rick
DoIt AllPauls
Member
First thanks for the advice/help roughrider all you suggestions were tried and tried and tried.
you should know i purchased the MB used, although the engine was a little dirty it was rapped up with a small tarp.
The tarp covered the engine but the chain was not covered and was rusty, as far as being true you could not of gotten it any straighter,
Sam tried to tell me the chain was worthless and was not worth spending the time to clean all the rust off of it.
I was told it was a wast of time because I had no idea how long the chain was rusty ,the rust had probably weakened the chain.
The bike came with a little box of parts 99% of them were worthless junk but there was 5 new rust free master links, I just thought the new free links would fix it, truthfully I was just to cheap to spend the $20.00
I know the chain was bent I replaced the bad ling, worked fine for around a week then the chain popped off again I found another bad link i replaced that link worked fine for around another week after the 5th link I just gave up a spent the $20.00, I should of spent in the fist place.
a lesson well learned not to be so cheap. LOL
Since I replaced the chain I rode it every day for 2 weeks with no problems, I then sold it to Tom he has had it for around 2 week now.
After 4 weeks of daily use the chain has not popped off, not even once so it had to be the chain.
you should know i purchased the MB used, although the engine was a little dirty it was rapped up with a small tarp.
The tarp covered the engine but the chain was not covered and was rusty, as far as being true you could not of gotten it any straighter,
Sam tried to tell me the chain was worthless and was not worth spending the time to clean all the rust off of it.
I was told it was a wast of time because I had no idea how long the chain was rusty ,the rust had probably weakened the chain.
The bike came with a little box of parts 99% of them were worthless junk but there was 5 new rust free master links, I just thought the new free links would fix it, truthfully I was just to cheap to spend the $20.00
I know the chain was bent I replaced the bad ling, worked fine for around a week then the chain popped off again I found another bad link i replaced that link worked fine for around another week after the 5th link I just gave up a spent the $20.00, I should of spent in the fist place.
a lesson well learned not to be so cheap. LOL
Since I replaced the chain I rode it every day for 2 weeks with no problems, I then sold it to Tom he has had it for around 2 week now.
After 4 weeks of daily use the chain has not popped off, not even once so it had to be the chain.
Last edited:
Fabian
Well-Known Member
This is an interesting topic because i have had some interesting experiences with chains and how they misalign and hence derail.
Prior to fitting my chain tensioners on the SickBikeParts shift, the jackshaft chain could be made to reliably derail, even when the chain didn't have a lot of slack and both sprockets were in perfect alignment; verified with a straight edge.
If constant tension was applied to the chain, and the bike traveling along absolutely strait, the chain would happily spin around, but if throttling off and back on again in an aggressive manner, over uneven surfaces and throwing the bike around, the chain would derail.
What seemed to be be happening is that the aggressive on-off throttling caused an oscillation from the sudden change in tension (from a slack state); a bit like cracking a stockmans whip.
The engine would also flex a little on the engine mounts, causing the jackshaft to twist downwards, creating an increased level of momentary chain slackness.
After i installed my chain tensioners, the problem "never" reappeared, no matter how aggressive i was with the throttle or how bad the road surface; also surprising was the noticeable reduction in chain induced vibration; most of it coming from the 415 chain on the left hand side, which madly flapped about because of the non concentric Chinese output shaft sprocket.
The left hand side chain tensioner massively reduced this medium frequency vibration.
Prior to fitting my chain tensioners on the SickBikeParts shift, the jackshaft chain could be made to reliably derail, even when the chain didn't have a lot of slack and both sprockets were in perfect alignment; verified with a straight edge.
If constant tension was applied to the chain, and the bike traveling along absolutely strait, the chain would happily spin around, but if throttling off and back on again in an aggressive manner, over uneven surfaces and throwing the bike around, the chain would derail.
What seemed to be be happening is that the aggressive on-off throttling caused an oscillation from the sudden change in tension (from a slack state); a bit like cracking a stockmans whip.
The engine would also flex a little on the engine mounts, causing the jackshaft to twist downwards, creating an increased level of momentary chain slackness.
After i installed my chain tensioners, the problem "never" reappeared, no matter how aggressive i was with the throttle or how bad the road surface; also surprising was the noticeable reduction in chain induced vibration; most of it coming from the 415 chain on the left hand side, which madly flapped about because of the non concentric Chinese output shaft sprocket.
The left hand side chain tensioner massively reduced this medium frequency vibration.
roughrider
Member
Yep. I agree with this verdict. I have had success reviving rusty old chains by alternately soaking them in motor oil and scrubbing them with mineral spirits. But that won't help a chain that's just, plain, worn.
roughrider
Member
I have seen this on other machines. It can even happen on fixed gear bicycles. This shows that there's nothing like a springed tensioner on chain drive which gets hit hard by sudden accelerations and de-accelerations. That's what I take away from that.
Samdallas214
Member
I tried to tell him if it's a chain that might have a little rust or one you at least know how old it is and how long the rust has been there, You can probably fix it , but a used MB with a rusted chain just replace it.
O by the way the easy way to remove rust, just soak it in a can of coca cola over night, the next morning the rust will be gone.
O by the way the easy way to remove rust, just soak it in a can of coca cola over night, the next morning the rust will be gone.
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