Broken Engine Mount Problem
- Thread starter Soundplot
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Big Red
Active Member
last case dremel, or drill it right thru and helical kit, or force big bolt in there that usually hold, better yet=new crankcase or motor
Why would you dremel it or drill all the way through when ya can just drill a hole and "easyout" it. If the case is stripped out then ya just tap it to the next size up. And there's LOTS of things you can do before ya buy a case and rebuild the entire bottom end because of a stripped out stud. If you CENTER PUNCH the stud, Drill it straight, Spin it out with a easyout. It's the easiest way to do it. It doesn't scar the case and is the proper, professional way to do it. Any other way is what you might do if you don't have the proper tools or experience. (Force a big bolt in there, REALLY?) C'mon bro, Even a 15 years old ya gotta know THAT ain't right.
Big Red.
from my 4 years of motorize biking i have had snapped studs 4 times, (now use high tensile haha) easy outs were for me a big fail (i used cheap ones etc so may be my luck) the other 2 i dremeled a grove and used a flat head screwdriver (barely even marked the crankcase) The last i nothing worked as i used red loctite lol so i drilled it at 7mm then used a drill bit with a thread (like a rough threader bit) thin tightened a bolt into it (one that matches the rough thread job) still works after over a year fine. i guess my suggestion o new case or motor was pretty stupid, so apologies for that. if not take to professionals i guess?
Big Red
Active Member
from my 4 years of motorize biking i have had snapped studs 4 times, (now use high tensile haha) easy outs were for me a big fail (i used cheap ones etc so may be my luck) the other 2 i dremeled a grove and used a flat head screwdriver (barely even marked the crankcase) The last i nothing worked as i used red loctite lol so i drilled it at 7mm then used a drill bit with a thread (like a rough threader bit) thin tightened a bolt into it (one that matches the rough thread job) still works after over a year fine. i guess my suggestion o new case or motor was pretty stupid, so apologies for that. if not take to professionals i guess?
I think the only reason you had bad luck with the easyouts is because ya REALLY gotta center punch the stud to keep the drill bit centered on the stud. Otherwise yer gonna "drift" off to the side and mess up the casing threads. This really is the easiest way to remove a broken stud, That is unless it breaks above the case. Then ya just grab it with vice grips or whatever and screw it out.
Now, I've busted cheap easyouts off inside the studs and THEN YER SCREWED and I have no good solution for that dilemma. So first of all ya gotta buy the good easyouts, Not the dollar store ones. Ya can't drill out even the cheap easyouts once it's busted inside the stud. In this case YOUR solution might work. Dremmel a slot and use a screwdriver. If this ever happens to me again I will strongly consider slotting it with a dremmel.
Big Red.
P.S. I've got almost 8 years of MB's behind me, 5 of that running a small motorized bike business. Not to brag or anything, but since ya brought up your 4 years. And I've had A LOT more than 4 broken studs. Like 20 or 30 on customer bikes.
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Big Red
Active Member
And yer right, IF ya got a welder. Like I said somewhere before, Not everyone has a welder. And if ya take it to someone else to do it ya might as well take it to a machine shop and let 'em do it all. But yer right. If ya got a welder and decent welding skills then this would work just fine.
Big Red.
Skyliner70cc
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Don't waste you time. Drill two holes thru the mount 90 degrees to the original studs and then bolt and attach angle iron or a steel "L" to it for a new engine mount...much more strdy
Big Red
Active Member
I'm not saying I've never done it like that before skyliner, but only as a last resort. There are all kinds of better mounts you can make or buy. None I can think of require you to drill into the case to achieve putting a sturdier mount on a bike. The only time I will do this is when there is no hope of saving the original mount. And it's a LOT more work than simply extracting a broken stud.
But, As I've always said.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
fatdaddy.
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
What has worked for me a couple of times was just blocking the motor in my little drill press and after running a bolt that size up to hardware store and bought a brand new drill bit and easy-out, it worked like a champ but the trick as mentioned is drill the stud and not letting the bit slip into the cheap soft case metal.
One other note is unless you snapped it off tightening it your motor had to be loose to snap it off. One simple test you should do before you take a ride is grab the top of your motor with one hand, your top bar just behind the gas tank and try to push you motor back and forth, if it moves AT ALL it's need tightening.
One other note is unless you snapped it off tightening it your motor had to be loose to snap it off. One simple test you should do before you take a ride is grab the top of your motor with one hand, your top bar just behind the gas tank and try to push you motor back and forth, if it moves AT ALL it's need tightening.
Big Red
Active Member
Yeah KC, Ya tell em and tell em, Then they just jump on the thing and ride without checking anything. I don't trust ANYTHING made in China THAT much. It's only happend once, But my baby tells me if my motor is getting a little loose. The vibration starts tickling me in my neither places and makes my rear go numb. I check for engine tight every 3 or 4 times I ride it, Don't know what happend the one time. I do check wheels and brakes along with lights EVERY time.
Big Red.
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