Need Auto Clutch Help

[casixer]

A buddy of mine bought a blue 2006 whizzer, and ive been designated mechanic. It has an auto clutch.

The problem is that the bike won't take off from a stop on its own power, nor will it climb hills of any kind without pedal assistance. After you help it to 15 mph, it will eventually top out at 36mph. It has an unknown aftetmarket carb.

I followed the clutch break in procedure, removing just the glazed areas of the pads repeatedly until we reached about 90% pad surface contact. When we got the bike with 3000 miles on it, only about 10% contact. Better, but no dust will ever be kicked up with it... there is never a time when i can feel the clutch lock up, as with other auto clutches ive worked with.

The belts are not slipping, all slippage is in the clutch. The belts were initially slipping, but i conditioned and cleaned them, as well as the pulleys they ride in. Is it possible to put weaker clutch return springs in?

Also, my name is Ted. Im 39, and i live in Los Angeles. I plan to build a Whizzer out of my childhood bike, a columbia 5 star superb. This is my first posting to this site. Thanks in advance for any help or advice you may be able to offer.

 

[casixer]

Picking up my own Whizzer kit tomorrow!

Any ideas about the auto clutch? I read here that a Whizzer should take off from a stoplight on its own power... id love to make that so.

Thanks,
Ted

 

[casixer]

Picking up my own Whizzer kit tomorrow!

Any ideas about the auto clutch? I read here that a Whizzer should take off from a stoplight on its own power... id love to make that so.

Thanks,
Ted

 

[WZ507]

They do make different weight springs for the autoclutch. The light weight ones I've seen are ~ 0.032" wire, the mediums were ~ 0.048" wire, and the heavys were so stout that a Whizzer would never get them to engage. The heavies must be for a clutch run on a 2-stroke crankshaft (rather than a Whizzer jackshaft), where the clutch speed would be 2-3X that of a Whizzer.

For an experiment I've completely removed the light springs from an autoclutch, and although it dragged ever so slightly in this condition, it worked very well and fully engaged. I'd try this as it should make a night and day difference if clutch spring strength is your issue.

The medium springs take considerable rpm to engage (2,000, 3,000, 4,000 rpm ?), depending on incline, gearing, rider and bicycle weight, engine power, etc, so that might be your problem. Obviously higher gearing, higher weight, steeper incline and higher HP all affect the speed at which the clutch engages, because any one of these factors can increase the load the clutch must transmit.

Keep us posted and let us know how you make out.

 

[klinde]

Replace the original auto clutch

Picking up my own Whizzer kit tomorrow!

Any ideas about the auto clutch? I read here that a Whizzer should take off from a stoplight on its own power... id love to make that so.

Thanks,
Ted

I have 2 2006 NE-5's, Yes they should take off under their own power.
The original auto clutch that came on these bikes are not very good. The whole thing is held together by a rubber busing that will fail in time. Look on WC1maunfacturer blog. They now make an improved version of the auto clutch. Purchasing it is well worth it. To date it is the best solution for the auto cluthch that I have found.

 

[klinde]

I have 2 2006 NE-5's, Yes they should take off under their own power.
The original auto clutch that came on these bikes are not very good. The whole thing is held together by a rubber busing that will fail in time. Look on WC1maunfacturer blog. They now make an improved version of the auto clutch. Purchasing it is well worth it. To date it is the best solution for the auto cluthch that I have found. I highly recomend you look int this new clutch.

The kits come with a manual clutch, atleast the ones I have seen. There is an upgraded manual clutch as well. I have not tryed it out yet.

Im in the central vally near Visalia. I am presently doing some upgrades to both my Whizzers. Sure would like to hear about your future build.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

WHOA!

Don't even think about buying the latest automatic clutch from Joe Lin in Taiwan, as it is "TRASH".

As always he manages to make a good idea bad. The current version can't even be upgraded to work correctly as he still runs needle bearings on a soft surface. The earlier versions 2005 to 2009 can be modified to work [forever] by simply machining the bearing sleeve off and replacing with a real bearing sleeve rated at Rockwell 58. Once the bearing surface is replaced the clutch can be made to work very well [My 1950 Whizzer Sportsman will pull wheelies using the modified clutch].

His latest offering has the mounting bolt recessed and removed all the support needed to re-sleeve the hub. He also uses a brass ring in place of the seal and the grease leaks onto the shoes [can you say SLIP]. He then cuts a groove into the bearing surface [easy to do on the soft bearing race] on installs a "E" clip to hold the clutch together and then puts a seal on the outside, how dumb, as in order to service the clutch you must destroy the seal to get the clip out. He never tests anything, just sells it to us dumb Americans, because the first clutches didn't work at all [way to go Joe, no testing prior to production]. After many complained he did install the correct weaker springs on the latest versions.

All Whizzers should easily take off under its own power, and the clutch should go into complete lock at approx. 2800 RPMs.

We are currently getting ready to make a real clutch for the new edition Whizzers, and will be made with AMERICAN parts [Max Torque clutch, and parts made in CA]. This clutch has been tested for over 1,000 miles and has worked 100%.

If anyone wants I can supply pictures of all the various clutches used on the new edition Whizzers, including the new clutch we are working on.

So far the best clutch available for the new generation Whizzer was made my 3rd Mel. and used Max Torque insides. Sadly there were only a few hundred ever made, as the cost was extremely high [many sold for $450.00].

Have fun,

 

[klinde]

Your making a reliablee clutch?

WHOA!

Don't even think about buying the latest automatic clutch from Joe Lin in Taiwan, as it is "TRASH".

As always he manages to make a good idea bad. The current version can't even be upgraded to work correctly as he still runs needle bearings on a soft surface. The earlier versions 2005 to 2009 can be modified to work [forever] by simply machining the bearing sleeve off and replacing with a real bearing sleeve rated at Rockwell 58. Once the bearing surface is replaced the clutch can be made to work very well [My 1950 Whizzer Sportsman will pull wheelies using the modified clutch].

His latest offering has the mounting bolt recessed and removed all the support needed to re-sleeve the hub. He also uses a brass ring in place of the seal and the grease leaks onto the shoes [can you say SLIP]. He then cuts a groove into the bearing surface [easy to do on the soft bearing race] on installs a "E" clip to hold the clutch together and then puts a seal on the outside, how dumb, as in order to service the clutch you must destroy the seal to get the clip out. He never tests anything, just sells it to us dumb Americans, because the first clutches didn't work at all [way to go Joe, no testing prior to production]. After many complained he did install the correct weaker springs on the latest versions.

All Whizzers should easily take off under its own power, and the clutch should go into complete lock at approx. 2800 RPMs.

We are currently getting ready to make a real clutch for the new edition Whizzers, and will be made with AMERICAN parts [Max Torque clutch, and parts made in CA]. This clutch has been tested for over 1,000 miles and has worked 100%.

If anyone wants I can supply pictures of all the various clutches used on the new edition Whizzers, including the new clutch we are working on.

So far the best clutch available for the new generation Whizzer was made my 3rd Mel. and used Max Torque insides. Sadly there were only a few hundred ever made, as the cost was extremely high [many sold for $450.00].

Have fun,

I sure could use a reliable clutch. I do not have access or the experience to rebuild the original clutch. I don't have access to a machine shop or have any one around that knows anything about Whizzers. My clutch failed a about 200 miles.

 

[klinde]

Are you going to be selling your improved clutch? I sure could use one.

 

[klinde]

Oh! Please provide what you can, pictures and all. I sure would like to get mine bike back on the road again.