And it looks to be a failure on your part, I wrote down I CLEANED THE CARB, and look at my user? Small engine guy. I work more so with dirt bikes then these chines engines, I had pocket bikes and such. I toke my old carb apart today NT and also have a speedy but in process of cleaning again as parts come in idle screw was rusty because guy I bought it off had It all sitting out I did most of cleaning
a carb, is a carb.
have you removed the BOWL? ran a fine wire through the jet? removed jet and made sure it is clear? have you checked that the needle in the slide HAS THE E-CLIP still? and, for starters, in the middle groove? if it has dropped in the slide, it will do the same thing as a lump of dirt...block the jet. you will be able to idle, but nothing else. if you need one...solder a ring of heavy copper wire on the groove. or look on an rc car for a small e-clip.
vice versa, if the needle is missing, it wont idle, wont rev, but will take WOT happily when up to speed.
you stated you removed rust from the idle screw. that is an external item, that has no bearing on the carbs operation.
the most basic part of any small engine service, and usually the first thing to do.
there is no difference (basically) between a mikuni 24mm or an NT POS. no difference between a 427 chev or a single cylinder briggs and stratton. anything gets in the bowl, and blocks the jet, it wont RUN.
no, you dont need to pedal to get them started. not continuously, at least. when the engines in good tune, and everythings a-ok, they should fire up and run on the first few turns. like, in less than a metre.
just like a good chainsaw will fire first pull, or a good yx150 will fire up on the first kick.
sorry for sounding slightly arrogant
disparaging. sorry. i get a lot of work after a local "small engine mechanic" has declared it as unfixable... or quotes astronomical sums.
